Has anyone tried any oil additives in the 3.5 l EcoBoost and heard or made any actual difference in the performance and longevity of the engine

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gxgn

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I think the 5w30 is a blend, not full Syn. If you change it at 5k rather than 10k you’ll be fine with it though. Beware that dealers will put whatever is in their bulk drums into everything. You must insist that your preferences are listed on the techs work order, not just “oil change”.
You can get full synthetic version, just have to ask the dealer and pay more. They used 1qt bottles, I watched them, not the bulk blend.
 
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“eliminates dry starts”? Is that what she said? Prove it. Do you know the chemical makeup of the snake oil?

I don’t “feel” anything related to this discussion. Just the facts.

You could learn a few things about lubes from this guy
I know that it is paraffin based petroleum (Kerosene), nowhere near snake oil, and the Relative density is around 0.895 at 60 degrees, after distillation. Now, when paired with a Kinematic viscosity of 1.1cmsq, that stabilizes the ability to coat and maintain oil in the smallest of tolerances, which does create a meniscus in order to prevent "dry starts" or metal on metal dynamic friction.

It's ok, I don't need to watch YouTube on fluid dynamics and or Lubrication, I already studied Calero, Garbrecht and Lighthill and earned an expensive piece of paper stating such achievement. But thank you for your input.

d-that-go-the-way-you-thought-it-was-gonna-go-nope.gif
 

thatJeepguy

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I know that it is paraffin based petroleum (Kerosene), nowhere near snake oil, and the Relative density is around 0.895 at 60 degrees, after distillation. Now, when paired with a Kinematic viscosity of 1.1cmsq, that stabilizes the ability to coat and maintain oil in the smallest of tolerances, which does create a meniscus in order to prevent "dry starts" or metal on metal dynamic friction.

It's ok, I don't need to watch YouTube on fluid dynamics and or Lubrication, I already studied Calero, Garbrecht and Lighthill and earned an expensive piece of paper stating such achievement. But thank you for your input.

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Paraffins have shyte pour points at low temps. And are always removed in typ3 and 4 in the dewaxing process prior to cracking. Not sure why you’d argue diluting a type 4 base oil with a product far back in the conventional refinement stream? Please explain.
 

TwizzleStix

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I know that it is paraffin based petroleum (Kerosene), nowhere near snake oil, and the Relative density is around 0.895 at 60 degrees, after distillation. Now, when paired with a Kinematic viscosity of 1.1cmsq, that stabilizes the ability to coat and maintain oil in the smallest of tolerances, which does create a meniscus in order to prevent "dry starts" or metal on metal dynamic friction.

It's ok, I don't need to watch YouTube on fluid dynamics and or Lubrication, I already studied Calero, Garbrecht and Lighthill and earned an expensive piece of paper stating such achievement. But thank you for your input.

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Yes, yes it did. My job working for a major aerospace company is fixing precisely the problems caused by the people who base their output and arguments on their paperwork vs reality. I likely get paid more than you to fix your forked up “ideas” for a “better way”.
 

New recaros

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I think Exxon makes 85% of the synthetic base stocks. No different than gasoline, refiners ship raw gasoline across the country via pipelines, at the trucking terminals they add the appropriate additive package while loading onto the truck making branded gasoline like ConocoPhillips, chevron Exxon etc…
With my 50 years dealing with lubrication on industrial equipment, the best oil is clean oil.
 

nikhsub1

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I think Exxon makes 85% of the synthetic base stocks. No different than gasoline, refiners ship raw gasoline across the country via pipelines, at the trucking terminals they add the appropriate additive package while loading onto the truck making branded gasoline like ConocoPhillips, chevron Exxon etc…
With my 50 years dealing with lubrication on industrial equipment, the best oil is clean oil.
Is the best oil really clean oil? I'd say it depends. With todays oils, there are lots of additives as you mention. There are detergents as well, which in some cases are relatively abrasive. They are the most abrasive when the oil is new. As the oil wears, there is definitely a sweet spot to it's lubrication and I would venture to say that it isn't when it's new. If one were to put new oil in their engine every 100 miles it would actually be a bad idea as the oil would always have high detergent in it.

But in my rambling I noticed you said clean, not new. I would agree with clean oil, not necessarily new though.
 

New recaros

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To bad they don’t make industrial quality air and oil filters that are rated in absolute numbers. These junk nominal rated filters are half the reason these ICE engines wear out. I never see an air filter rating for auto’s and the best oil filter I could find was Napa gold for our 6 poppers.
  • Laboratory Test Performance per ISO 454812: 18 Grams Dirt (NAPA Gold # 1515), 99% Efficient At 23 Microns (Based On NAPA Gold # 1515, 1356, 7060)
 

Ellison3

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I have used this stuff on all my daily drivers, and even my 800HP LS3 fox body. This stuff works wonders, eliminating dry starts and just keeps the engine running great.
Agreed… I’ve also used it in the past on my ‘04 Expedition with over 300k miles on the odometer. When I couldn’t find Lucas I’d use the Hyperlube version.

When it was time to change the oil I’d add the above I mentioned earlier (Marvel Mystery Oil) to clean away the dirty Lucas that remains after the oil drain/change. Whatever it touches it stays on that surface, thus eliminating dry starts/ friction. But it does get dirty, and can’t be completely removed to all it clings onto by just draining the oil
 
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