Gen 2 OE rear shocks on gen 1

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nipplesNchowder

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Im ordering some gen 2's. Im going to try this out. I dont jump and I need a replacement for my leaking and sagging, war torn pieces of shit I currently have.

Why are gen 2 shocks so cheap compared to gen 1s? Ive seen new gen 1's on ebay for $3000 CAD, meanwhile gen 2's on ebay are like 1/4 the price. Whats up with that? Are they shittier?
 

halojunkie

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Im ordering some gen 2's. Im going to try this out. I dont jump and I need a replacement for my leaking and sagging, war torn pieces of shit I currently have.

Why are gen 2 shocks so cheap compared to gen 1s? Ive seen new gen 1's on ebay for $3000 CAD, meanwhile gen 2's on ebay are like 1/4 the price. Whats up with that? Are they shittier?

Thanks to everyone that replied, looking forward to my upgrade. Got my full set for $650. The gen 2 tech was enhanced from gen 1. New base valve piston, 9 dampening zones for better highway manners, with the final zone acting as a hydraulic bump stop. Also the 3" body. Other than that the overall design is the same. IMO its just supply and demand. All the high rollers out there dumping their gen 2s on day one and all the gen 1 owners who are always looking to buy. Also it seems durability improved in gen 2 which floods the market another way. Both times I've thought I had reputable shops rebuild was a complete bust and a waste of labor. Ford really got me by the balls with this one.

Saw this beauty at the auto show. I'd hate to think what these "live valve" bastards are going to cost.

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halojunkie

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Mounted the rears successfully. Went on without a hiccup. To the guy who had to grind; I don't know why that was necessary. I can't see ever replacing the rears with the 2.5 ever again. Did it with minimal tools and one jack. Mounted the axle side first and the muscled the shock down to length. The first thing I noticed about the new vs the old is the first 3 inches of travel from full extension are 3x as stiff as the lower 8" vs the old that was consistent compression stiffness throughout the stroke. Solid competent feel on road, no more chattering over expansion joints, more mid range squish but less center hunting. Highly recommended upgrade.
 

HalfRap

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Mounted the rears successfully. Went on without a hiccup. To the guy who had to grind; I don't know why that was necessary. I can't see ever replacing the rears with the 2.5 ever again. Did it with minimal tools and one jack. Mounted the axle side first and the muscled the shock down to length. The first thing I noticed about the new vs the old is the first 3 inches of travel from full extension are 3x as stiff as the lower 8" vs the old that was consistent compression stiffness throughout the stroke. Solid competent feel on road, no more chattering over expansion joints, more mid range squish but less center hunting. Highly recommended upgrade.


How can you say this???
It would seem for the most part that the first 25 pages of this thread are more about people that had never got their hands dirty with this,,,,, Just Flat out Schooling others that had already swapped that this could in No Way, shape or form benefit them or their truck..
 

halojunkie

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Forum cancer. Every thread, any subject. Someone; asks a question about how to do something. Useless idiot ; "have you ever considered doing nothing at all?" or guy with zero credentials; "AKTCHUALLY, this will never work"

I left the boot un-modded even though it rubs on the mounting point. Its plastic vs metal, should sort itself.

Side note on the stickers for the people that need the raptor logo. Peeled off really clean, and I think the adhesive could be gently heated and reattached if you were so inclined.

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HalfRap

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Are you going to do the Fronts as Well??

I have had mine installed with Gen1 Geiser springs for a while now and will never go back to a Gen1 shock.
 

halojunkie

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I am doing the fronts this weekend hopefully. My concern is stuffing it in there with just one set of hands. Anyone have a good tactic for doing it solo?
 

HalfRap

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I am doing the fronts this weekend hopefully. My concern is stuffing it in there with just one set of hands. Anyone have a good tactic for doing it solo?

If I understand the question correctly.. Just make sure Everything is completely disconnected from the LCA/Spindle to allow max Droop, (Axles, Tie Rod and sway bar and It should pop in pretty easily.. Jack up LCA/Spindle to attach UCA Ball Joint first while guiding axle back in place.. then the rest which isn't much...

If you mean swapping springs, I brought mine to a shop to have them swapped out..
 
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