Gen 2 OE rear shocks on gen 1

Discussion in 'Ford Raptor Suspension Discussion and Modification' started by xBryanHoodsx, Jul 18, 2017.

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  1. George Riddick

    George Riddick Member

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    Well, I just so happen to have a 2010 Raptor, 6.2, and the shocks are in need of a rebuild again. I have found gen 2 shocks on eBay from Athens ford. All 4 shocks for $1300, and I have ordered them last night so we can try this out! I'll be posting pics and keep you updated. I'm even trying out a front shock swap, not sure how well it will go, I know the spring rate will be wrong, but maybe i can swap my 1st gen springs into the 2nd gen frock shocks. If you guys have any advice, please let me know, and thanks!
     
  2. 07Alloy

    07Alloy Full Access Member

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    I would love to see this work. I understand there may be some work involved. Let us know how it goes and what fits vs doesn’t fit.


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  3. 2014ford_raptorguy

    2014ford_raptorguy Member

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    Gen2 shocks on gen1 raptor

    So I got a set of shocks off of a 2017 Raptor and tried to fit on of the fronts so far. This is how it ended up. I removed to old shock and noticed that the studs on the hat are quite a bit longer on the old shock. I tried to simply install the gen2 shock but couldn’t get a nut on the stud when putting it through the strut mount. So I swapped the gen1 shock hat with the gen2 hat (they are the same except the stud length) I got it mounted in the strut mount but the additional length of the shock stopped me from being able to install the bottom bolt. I used spring compressors on the spring and compressed them as much as I could until the compressor started to hit the strut mount. The lower a arm in the picture is down as far as the axle will let it go and it still lacks a couple of inches from on being able to install the bottom shock bolt. I ran out of daylight and since the truck is my daily driver I swapped everything back for the time being.
    I’m thinking if I either remove the axel from the steering knuckle or sepporate the lower ball joint I could get the lower portion of the shock into place. Not sure if at full extension it would cause issues with vacuum lines/brake lines/ and strain on the axel.
     

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  4. Aaron

    Aaron Meme Corps Commandant

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    This thread just got good.
     
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  5. 07Alloy

    07Alloy Full Access Member

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    That doesn’t look good! Guessing the coil bucket would need moved and rewelded. Also gen 2 control arms maybe.


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  6. downforce137

    downforce137 Full Access Member

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    once you take the outer nut off the cv axle, under that little cap, you'll have plenty of extra downward travel to get the shock in there. also, remove the top nut on the stailizer link, if you haven't. i cant tell in your pic.

    Keep us updated.
     
    Last edited: Oct 16, 2017
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  7. Canuck714

    Canuck714 Full Access Member

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    I'm guessing the longer shock body length may limit your up travel with the stock control arm and upper mount. The shock will be partially compressed to fit in the Gen 1.

    take the springs off both shocks and cycle them to get actual shock shaft travel numbers before you try cramming a longer shock on there.

    If you can, measure the total shock length (eyelet to eyelet) on both, then the shaft stroke. You may be able to get this to work with aftermarket upper control arm, as they will let the arm drop out more.
    Like others have said, disconnect the sway bay end link to get more arm travel.
     
    Last edited: Oct 17, 2017
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  8. George Riddick

    George Riddick Member

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    I just got mine in the mail, this helps out a lot so far. I am worried about the shock clearing the driveshaft, seems like about a half inch of clearance with the stock shock. I won't be sure until I get to the point your at, but have you noticed that at all yet either?
     
  9. Wfo

    Wfo Full Access Member

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    What about the rears?
     
  10. Canuck714

    Canuck714 Full Access Member

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    Any update?
    Curious if you pulled the springs and cycled the 3.0 to see what travel numbers you get and if that longer shock will work up front.
    Pretty sure the rear is a non-issue
     

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