All right everyone I'm a new member I've looked around on the forms and haven't been able to find everything that I'm looking for so forgive me if I've somehow overlooked something but yes before anyone asks I have used the search function LOL. I just finally got my dream truck a gen 1 Raptor. It's a 2011 scab 6.2 l. I'm definitely a do-it-yourselfer and I'm pretty mechanically inclined so of course I want to do a complete tune-up you can never trust what someone else has done so I'm going to change all my fluids filters basically all that general maintenance and scheduled maintenance stuff. The truck does have 180000 miles on it so I'm sure she could use the love. So I I'm going to do a flush and fill of the engine I'm going to do a flush and fill of the transmission as well as change the transmission filter so yes I will be dropping the transmission pan I'm going to flush and fill the transfer case and both differentials I'm going to flush and fill the cooling system I'm going to flush and fill power steering and flushing fill brake fluid. Therein lies a couple questions. What transmission is in our trucks? Since I'm dropping the pan I would like to put an after-market pan with a drain plug in it that way in the future fluid changes are much easier. Also where is the fill plug or line. I understand we don't have a transmission dipstick but there still has to be some sort of service line so that you can feel or the dealer can fill or check or whatever have you. I'm over looking it somewhere. With the transfer case I do see the drain and fill plug however I must ask does the transfer case get its transmission fluid from the transmission reservoir I have seen this before on other vehicles so basically the fill plug would not be a fill plug it would just be a check plug. Now for what I do know. Our girls call for a 5 w 20 full synthetic oil she takes 7 quarts of oil with filter. Now I believe our transmission is the 6r80 and if that is in fact true then she will take 13.1 quarts total fill with a synthetic mercon LV fluid. Now it is important to note that you will not even doing a flush and fill and dropping the pan like I plan to get all of those 13.1 quarts out of the transmission there is transmission fluid that will be stuck in the torque converter and such and if you've ever held one of those things or seen it in person it holds quite a bit of fluid. So it is smart to measure out the amount of fluid that you remove and put back in exactly what you took out. Now our girls also use transmission fluid of the synthetic kind low viscosity for the power steering fluid which is nice because it's less things we need to buy. Power steering fluid is pretty easy to do you extract what is in the reservoir and then put the same amount back in. Then turning your steering wheel all the way left all the way right while the vehicle is running with the cap off of the reservoir will get any air bubbles out and cycle that fluid through the system probably making the fluid dirty again with what was left in the system so then you can flush and fill another time at your discretion but one flush and fill is sufficient. Be sure to double-check your levels and add or remove accordingly Our girls take a DOT 3 brake fluid. When flushing the brake system go ahead and empty the reservoir and fill it back with clean fluid then move to the brake bleeder furthest most from the reservoir so on our girls it will be the back right so passenger side rear. I recommend using a bleeder tool so that you can stop air from getting into the lines while performing this service it's not you can take a water bottle and a piece of hose the size of IV lines put a little bit of cleaning fluid in a water bottle maybe 1/4 of the bottle push the hose down into the bottle submerged one end in the brake fluid you have added to the bottle pushing the line all the way to the bottom of the bottle then attach the other end of the hose to the nipple this way as you bleed the brakes fluid will exit into the bottle and when the system tries to suck back whenever you release the brake pedal it will pull fluid out of the bottle instead of pulling air. So to complete the flush pump your brakes slow all the way to the floor three or four times get out of the vehicle refill your reservoir and continue that process until the fluid that's coming out into your bottle it's clear clean fluid then tighten off the bleeder valve clean up your mess and make sure your reservoir is at the proper level put the cap on your reservoir pump your brakes a good few times make sure they're nice and hard and not spongy your foot pedal should not go all the way to the ground and then drive your truck to test the brakes and make sure they're still in proper working condition it's always good measure to pull out of your driveway and immediately try to stop just to make sure your rights are actually going to work before getting on a highway or a road somewhere and getting in an accident. Also take care to not spill brake fluid on anything specialty paint that stuff's real nasty and will eat stuff up. If you want to do a complete engine flush you unfortunately will have to use more engine oil then you would like to but at least if you're OCD like I am you will know she's nice and clean before you do the engine flush they make additives that you can put into the engine and drive the vehicle around for a few days so that it really break stuff up and cleans it up inside. I personally put a little bit of seafoam in there. you do not have to put an additive in your engine to do this process however I am going the extra mile. Now it's time to drain your engine. Make sure that the engine is a little warm when starting this process it makes the oil flow smoother and speeds things up just a hair. Remove your drain plug drain your oil remove your oil filter let it drain as well remember to remove the oil fill cap up top so that air can flow through and remove all of the oil. Now you can flush a quart or two of oil through the system by just pouring a quart of oil in the filler side up top with your drain plug still removed. Your oil filter does not have to be reattached because oil should not drain out of there when doing this process because the engine is not running. Now you want to put your oil plug back in put a new filter on and fill the truck with seven courts I've oil or 6 quarts and 1 quart of an additive which is what I will be doing. Crank your truck make sure you have oil pressure it underneath make sure you're not leaking then drive it real quick around your neighborhood you don't have to go far just enough to circulate the oil through the system park the truck turn it off start the same process over as if doing a normal oil change this time you can change your filter again if you like or leave the new one that you've previously put on me personally I will change it. And now this time feel the truck up with 7 quarts of oil check for oil pressure make sure you have no leaks what you've established oil pressure turn the vehicle off wait a few moments for the oil to settle check your oil level take her for a test drive you should be good. Now to flush the radiator it's kind of the same process. You can buy an additive to put into your coolant drive it around for a little while and then it will break up all the crud. Or break up a lot of it you'll never get it all out. Now it's time to flush the radiator so you want to find the drain valve or petcock it should be on the bottom of the radiator. Go ahead open it up start to drain it open the radiator cap and it'll let it drain faster unplug the vent tube that goes from the radiator cap to the reservoir and then put the reservoir hose down into your bucket as well. Gravity will do the rest it will drain everything out of the reservoir. When the reservoir is empty take a water hose with high pressure and sprayed around in there and clean it up good you can get pipe cleaners and scrub it out if you want. Now you want to fill the radiator backup with distilled water after you close the drain valve of course. Fill it up until it won't take anymore squeeze on the upper radiator hose it should help it take more in then crank the truck once it gets to operating temperature it will pull in more water keep filling it until it won't take anymore. Also you could put another container of additive in with the distilled water to help break some more crud up. personally I will be putting a little bit of distilled water in the reservoir as well once I have put the vent tube back onto the radiator now as long as it's not overheating go driving around the neighborhood for a little bit 10 or 15 minutes to really mix that stuff up be sure to turn your heat on full blast so that it will flush through the heater core as well. Now go home and start the whole process again. Keep flushing with distilled water over and over and over doing the same process until you're not getting any more crud and old coolant out of the system or until you're satisfied with the results. Then filler back up with orange coolant. Be sure to fill the reservoir as well to the proper fill line. Get back in the truck let it heat up make sure it's not overheating. If it is overheating that means you have air in the system get back under the hood squeeze the upper radiator hose a good few times that will help you get air bubbles out you can try shaking the truck back and forth or up and down that helps to and also you want to have your heater on full blast to make sure you're getting hot heat and circulating the new coolant into the core as well so that way you know the entire system is properly filled. Now for the transfer case open the check / fill Port first. That way we know you will be able to fill it back up before you empty it all out. Believe me take my word for it just do it. Once you know that the fill plug will open then open the drain plug drain it out put the drain plug back in and then fill the transfer case backup until it starts to weep out of the fill plug. Now the transfer case is going to be taking the same kind of ATF so you should already have it on hand at this point or at least I will. It should be roughly two quarts to fill it. Now get in the truck driving around in 4-wheel drive for a little while so that you can get it all nice and mixed up. Take it home let it cool drain it again once you have verified you can open the fill plug. Once it's drained put the fill plug back in top it back off 2 quarts or until it starts to weep out of the fill plug. now take it out driving around in 4-wheel drive for a little while bring it back home let it cool off open the fill plug and make sure that it's at the proper level it should start to slowly weep out or at the very least if you put your pinky in there you should immediately be touching fluid. Now the differentials. I'm pretty sure the back differential has a drain and fill plug so the process is going to work exactly like the transfer case except you will not be putting ATF in the differentials. if it does not have a drain until plug you will do the same process as you will for the front differential. Which will be removing the whole differential cover letting it drain out cleaning it up applying a new gasket and then tightening the bolts to torque spec Criss-Cross pattern and then putting new differential fluid in it approximately 3 quarts. The rear differential is going to take 75w 140 and the front differential is going to take 80w 90. Now I'm 90% sure it's about three cords for both of them or until it starts to weep out of the fill plug. so if I'm wrong please tell me and feel free to correct this portion or tell me and I will. Now get in the truck drive it around for a while put it in 4-wheel drive drive it around lock the rear diff driving around take it home and check your levels again and you're good to go. Now like I said I'm no professional but I'm pretty handy with a wrench so feel free please feel free 2 correct me on anything I may have gotten incorrect or feel free to give some better ideas. Once I begin this process I'll probably take some pictures and then attach them as well.