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FOX 3.0 LIVE VALVE REVIEW

Discussion in 'Ford Raptor Suspension Discussion and Modification' started by misuracaf10, Sep 20, 2020.

  1. misuracaf10

    misuracaf10 FRF Addict

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    My setup consists of



    3.0 live valve Fronts and Rears

    Icon RXT Leafs option 2
    Icon Delta Joint UCA

    KHC Slot Delete Kit stage 1

    KHC Drop Shackle +1

    SVC Offroad bump kit with IFP 2.0 bump.



    Before install, my Ride heights were



    FR 41.25

    FL 41



    RR 42.5

    RL41.5



    After install the heights were
    FR 43
    FL 43

    RR 44.25
    RL 44

    I am going to double check these numbers but as of

    I had a 4/5 tank of gas

    Bedcover

    Little Bit of gear 30-40lb under my rear seat



    Street impressions

    • Street performance was smoother then stock especially the rear due to the leafs. Truck feels better and super plush with weight in the bed (obviously due to option2) and feels better then stock empty. So definitely a slight improvement in feel over stock in overall general feel. Option 1 would be ideal for street as I normally don’t carry anything. I just chose option 2 for the increased height and the fact I knew I would have to tow on occasion. And also I was worried the rear end would drop too low if I ever decided to load up for a trip somewhere. I probably could have possibly gotten away with option 1?


    Towing- pulled a 7500 lb camper and was sitting almost completely level even with the front end raised up from stock.

    I had a weight dist hitch and bars that really helped. Truck was planted and didn’t sag. Was able to go 70 comfortably. Rode stiffer but had more control on Offroad stiffest setting on the shock. Only reason I know this is I accidentally forgot to Redial the shocks to soft/street on my way home. The ride is less comfortable on this setting so I did switch it back to street.



    Offroad Trails- I feel the best setting for this is street / soft setting. Other settings are too stiff for potential washboards I encountered. The truck did soak up washboards better, but washboards still suck and beat you and the truck up. I played around with this during a full day of off-roading. Trails don’t often have jumps or whoops. The truck can handle anything the trail throws at me, and just floats over bumps and dips in the trail better then stock. Never have to worry about bottoming out As the truck just soaks up the terrain more comfortably.



    Silver lake / Sand dunes / jumping. I used the stiffest setting for this place. Truck can handle

    Steep elevation changes at higher speeds. I can enter whoops at slower speeds. Stock I had to be going 45+ or I would Be getting thrashed around. Truck has much better bottoming resistance in all situations, Especially the front end. When the truck was stock I was always super conscious of the front end. Rear end is more planted and does not come loose or bounce out of control like it did at times when it was stock. I could drive around more confidently and less cautiously. I bottomed out and hit my skid plate only once with the new setup, and I was flying through whoops and somehow got some hang time in the whoop and just landed right inbetween 2 whoops. stock I hit the plate several times in a day at the dunes. I do push my truck hard and abuse it out here in the dunes.



    Overall I am happy with the setup. It really Shines when going Offroad. Only thing I recommend is make sure you set the ride height perfect before you install. I forgot to do this and had to adjust it later. Which cost me a couple hundred bucks in labor unfortunately afterwards, as I had to get the shock taken out to adjust the coil.



    Also, I noticed that when I put the truck in reverse and start to back up, the trucks front end lowers 1 inch and I have no idea why. I have heard the rear does this on 19/20s stock but never the front.



    With the KHC slot delete and +6 offset icon wheels I do rub at full compression up front and I didn’t expect that. My tires are stock size in a mickey thompzon atz p3. I would be a littel worreid if i put a toyo MT or a atturo MT on my truck as the sidewall of the tire may begin to rub into the actual flare because the sidewall is a thicker and wider. I do not think that I would not rub if I didn’t have that slot delete kit just based on what it looks like in the wheel well. That was a little disappointing to me. If I had to do it again maybe I would not have done the slot delete? Then i wouldnt have needed to do the UCA but that was a type of insurance policy also. I do love the frame support idea but I’m not sure if I need it in my situations, But I guess you to it because you never know what could happen. I have heard from sterling Wild West that it’s really tough to throw your truck out of alignment if torqued properly. Which I can agree with as I abused my truck when it was stock in the trails and dunes and it always drove straight as an arrow.

    the bump kit with the 2.0 bump is very smooth and i don't notice when it engages, but at the same time ive gotten some hang time and have not noticed a harsh bottoming out. they seem to be working fairly well together. i have heard that there is bucking or clean engagement with a 2.5 bump and i wanted to avoid that.


    I probably put about 7,000 miles on the setup so far with lots of off-roading. I am getting squeaks on the left side but I think I need to clean My ball joint. My days off off-roading were very dusty and sandy conditions. The dusty. Day toasted my brand new air filter after just 1 day. The suspension also does seem a little bit noisier overall but it is not an annoyance by any means



    So again I am very happy and If you decide to go with anyone use NEO GARAGE. Super nice guy and will answer all of your questions. Honest guy and fair pricing that’s all you can ask for. I will add photos here shortly of the setup so you guys can see
     
    patire19, zell, NM156 and 5 others like this.
  2. desertfox73

    desertfox73 Full Access Member

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    Super helpful - thanks for taking the time to post all of this.
     
  3. letsgetthisdone

    letsgetthisdone Full Access Member

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    The front lowering down when you go in reverse is an alignment issue. Usually excessive toe in.
     
  4. Ryan C

    Ryan C Member

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    Thanks for posting!
     
  5. misuracaf10

    misuracaf10 FRF Addict

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    What happens is the shocks compress and lower, then when I put it in drive the front raises up. It has something to do with the computer controlling shock height. Not sure what it Happens. Fox doesn’t know either. You can see the truck actually lift itself up and feel it drop down like an air spring
     
  6. misuracaf10

    misuracaf10 FRF Addict

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    Here are some pics

    A2B1FC08-83DA-408C-AA38-DB33F5B6C923.jpeg

    7D05F1CC-2853-402F-AD1D-CA9A5ECDD55C.jpeg

    A6D932CE-3390-4A2C-8F70-211585B2199D.jpeg

    5FFB8E53-C843-414B-9D30-2CB8CC4753C2.jpeg

    622F99DB-AA21-419A-B49E-C582FB3C2B7B.jpeg
     
    DrewFish11 likes this.
  7. misuracaf10

    misuracaf10 FRF Addict

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    Some more, if anyone wants to see anything specific let me know
     
  8. misuracaf10

    misuracaf10 FRF Addict

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    More pics

    C9719F4C-6359-438A-A60E-CEAB0C2EC6A0.jpeg

    74982342-B98F-4419-B1BE-4B0C39328A97.jpeg

    F927067D-A656-4D36-BE8E-DA4B5E7CB0BF.jpeg

    B60658A4-26E1-4487-85DC-A764AA06DFB0.jpeg
     
  9. letsgetthisdone

    letsgetthisdone Full Access Member

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    The shock doesn't have that capability.
     
    DrewFish11 likes this.
  10. dragoon218

    dragoon218 Member

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    Thank you for the write up!! I have been debating these for a while and just haven't heard enough feedback about them.

    Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk
     

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