it is extremely expensive to lift a Raptor right, so 95% of the lifted Raptors have been done on the cheap (wrong). I learned this lesson the hard way... My Raptor was amazing stock. Then, last winter, I was spending more time playing with kids in the snow and ice, so I decided it would be good to take the new studded 37s off my Jeep and mount them on the Raptor. I figured the Raptor came with 35s, so a leveling kit should make 37s run with ample clearance, right?
So I went to a local shop that did lots of lift kit installations on everything but Raptors. The shop had a good reputation, and I’d had leveling kits installed in many trucks with no adverse effect, so I thought it was a safe plan. The owner of the shop recommended a “Readylift” collar kit which added about 2.75” in front (with collars) and 2” in the rear. He also gave me some 17” wheels to choose from which he assured me would work with no rubbing problems and no need to hack the crap out of the truck...
Well, the truck scraped/rubbed BAD as soon as it turned off the alignment rack. Their recommendation? “Trim”! But I would have had to hack, not trim, at least 1.5” from the back AND front, because the shop owner had no idea what he was doing when he recommended the selection of 9” wide wheels with -12 offset. Also, the Readylift system is a complete POS. The lift in back is achieved by swapping the OEM 2” block, already a bad idea, for a 4” block, a much worse idea (which causes axel-wrap/hop if you really get on it).
It was late at night when the work at the idiot shop was done, so I drove home slowly being extra careful to avoid any bumps while turning hard. Nothing about the eight mile drive home was good. I felt every seam on the highway and the steering, handling, and feel were awful.
The next morning I remounted the OEM tires and started research on how to lift a Raptor right. After about 30 hours of reading and talking to more knowledgeable guys I learned that doing 37s right — meaning keeping the suspension and drive feel while maintaining the performance, clearance, and off-road-ability —- is about a $30,000 adventure. That’s not for me. The alternative of hacking the crap out of my fender wells isn’t for me either, so the idiot-shop took their wheels back and I ordered some 35” studded Duratracs and mounted them on wheels with the proper offset.
I also removed the awful Readylift crap and installed Eibach springs up front and Icon (stage-2) springs in the rear. Now the truck is good again, though it’s a little firmer ride. That’s a good thing for us, as we occasionally tow a 5500 pound boat, and unmodified Raptors squat and get mushy with 700 pounds of tongue weight.
I‘d look hard at the truck you’re considering. Have the fender wells been hacked up? We’re the fenders cut with the flares being remounted higher up? Are there extra collars (top and/or bottom) on the front springs? Any evidence of hitting or rubbing? Then I’d drive the truck, making sure to turn in both directions while the suspension is being compressed (to check for rubbing in every day driving.) Does the truck feel good? No sluggish or heavy steering? No vibration or wheel shake at speed? Does it still have the factory Fox Shocks?
if it looks great and drives great, and the truck is otherwise what you want at a decent price, I’d buy it. You can swap wheels and tires later.
** Disclaimer: I know there are guys on this forum who run 37” tires and love them. I know it can be done with the Eibachs, Icons/Deavers, the right wheel offset, and enough cutting. In the end, these trucks feel like a regular F-150 with a 6” lift. If that’s your preference I say go for it. It’s just not for me.
