First Detail - Adamized the Raptor

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AdamsPolishes

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Had these product for way too long, and finally found time to Adamize the fleet. I was extremely impressed with their products, and now understand all the hype @AdamsPolishes. Here are a few photos:

Dang man, you've been busy! Nice work on the whole fleet! I'm glad you liked the products, thanks for sharing the results.

-Dan
 

RAPTORSV

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Add a Hose Y-Connector to your pressure washer so you can quickly switch between regular water and the filtered water. Then it just takes a couple seconds to switch the shut-offs from one to the other.

Also remember that any water in the pressure washer hose after you switch to DI water for the rinse is unfiltered, so go back over the first areas of the rinse to get this water off the truck.

I have found that the Wash & Wax does have a little less suds than the regular blue Car Wash Shampoo, but I think it leaves the paint shinier, much like the H2O Guard & Gloss does. I would say that if you did not notice the W&W making more shine, then your thought of claying and resealing is a good idea.

I took your advice and used the CR Spotless with the pressure washer. I works 100% better this way. I have brass quick connects on everything too now and very fast to switch over. The plastic quick connects that came with the CR are crap, they leak etc, threw them in the trash.

I find the Adams Blue wash works better. It rinses clean with no residue, while for me at least, the Adams wash and wax leaves residue spots that have to be wiped off.

Washed another car of mine that was garaged with only light dust. I used Adams rinse less wash, followed by the CR with power washer, that car came out perfect no spots, I didn't have to use any towel on it.

I believe it will be a time saver and easier on the paint finish in the long run.
 

Wilson

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adamized the tractor all I used was foam canon and wash and wax, ps don't get carried away with presser washer on the sticker decal.
before
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http://lh3.googleusercontent.com/b3...p-Q88rJXdtqscYKaT8rcXDigDXiV7OQ=w1024-h576-no
after
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http://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Ct...6kTg2EqUyh75VnyycRcZOWRUhnrO5Kw=w1024-h576-no

---------- Post added at 10:25 AM ---------- Previous post was at 10:22 AM ----------

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TheWolf

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Wheel Cleaning and Polishing

While I routinely deep clean the wheels and tires twice a year when I take them off to rotate them, after 2.5 years they were in need of a machine polish to remove minor swirls and a few larger scratches from having fun in the sand dunes.

I lifted the truck with my new Ranger Quickjack to remove the wheels.

01.jpg


After pressure washing to remove most of the crud, I cleaned barrels of the wheels with All Purpose Cleaner, and used Tire & Rubber Cleaner on the backs of the tires.

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Switching to the fronts, I hit them with the Foam Cannon using Strip Wash, then did the tires with Tire & Rubber Cleaner.

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After drying with the Master Blaster Revolution, I brought them into the garage for inspection. There were minor swirls as shown on this center cap.

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The first step of machine polishing with the Rupes Nano was done using Correcting Polish and the Rupes Blue Coarse Pad.

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The 1.5-inch pads on this little machine made it possible to polish the tight areas.

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The second step of machine polishing with Finishing Polish and the Rupes Yellow Fine Pad. This photo shows the use of the 2.75-inch pad for polishing the faces of the wheels

07.jpg


Level of correction was very good.

08.jpg

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Next up, Ceramic Coating!
 
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TheWolf

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Ceramic Coating on Wheels

To provide better protection on the wheels, and to make cleaning easier, I applied Ceramic Paint Coating while the wheels were off the truck. Note that I actually coated these wheels last month, before Ceramic Wheel Coating was released, hence the use of the Ceramic Paint Coating. While the two products are very similar, the Paint Coating is rated at 7H hardness, so it is not quite as durable as the 9H rating on the Wheel Coating.

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The coating kit comes with everything you need for the application.

I started with the backs of the wheels and the barrels. Using the new, clean towel included in the kit, I cleaned the surfaces with Coating Prep, to make sure all soap residue was removed. The coating needs a completely clean surface to properly adhere and provide the longest lasting protection.

When doing the backs, I was a little concerned about having coating drip around to the front of the wheel when being applied to the backs, so I applied with the wheels vertical, so I could immediately wipe any excess from the front before it dried.

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For applying to the fronts, I laid the wheels flat on the tables. I also used a Detailing Swab to apply the coating to the lug wells, being careful not to get coating on the conical nut seat.

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Using the provided applicator pad, I applied the coating to half of the wheel, then wiped off surfaces with a clean towel when it started to get tacky. As shown in the product video, you may also be able to see the coating start to rainbow as it dries, indicating the time to start wiping. I then applied to the other half of the wheel.

I also prepped and applied coating to the painted lug nuts.

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While the wheels were off, I prepped and coated the rear shocks.

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After letting the coating cure for 24 hours, I then sprayed the wheels and shocks with Ceramic Boost and wiped down with a clean towel.

Dressed the tires with Tire Shine, then reinstalled them.

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Now, the test of how the coating performs for making cleaning easier. This wheel has endured a full month of nasty winter weather, lots of snow and slush, and way too much deicer chemicals given the single digit temps this month.

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This photo was taken twenty minutes after the above photo, after the wheel was pressure washed and then blown dry with the Blaster Sidekick. No soap or brushes were used, just pressure rinsed and blow dried.

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You can see the wheel is not 100% clean, but the amount of crud that was removed with the rinse was more than I had previously seen last winter with just sealant on the wheels. I have also washed enough times during the winter to know that the deicer used on the streets is like glue, and is very hard to clean from the paint even with soap and a wash pad. I am certain that typical dust from driving during the non-winter months will rinse even cleaner with the ceramic coating on the wheels.
 
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