Electrical gremlin - need some assistance

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mcbagpiper

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Hi everyone,

Having some issues with my 2014 Raptor, wondering if anyone has had a similar experience and can shed some light on the matter. The issue started last week after arriving at the office, as I pulled into to parking lot I lowered the driver side window to use my parking pass. I had to fold in my mirrors to park in the remaining spot, and after tucking them in and parking I turned off the ignition and then proceeded to put the window back up. I hadn't yet opened the door, so I should still have power for the windows, but nothing happened. I turned the ignition to the "on" position and was able to put the window back up.

I jumped out of the truck and closed the driver door and then proceeded to open the rear passenger door to grab my briefcase, but the rear door was locked...which is odd b/c normally all of the doors unlock when I open the driver door. I had my key fob handy so I hit the unlock button, but nothing happened. I opened the driver door and tried using the unlock button in the truck itself...nothing. I started the truck and within 10 seconds everything was normal and the doors unlocked without issue. Shut the truck down and locked everything up and headed into the office. At the end of the day, came down to the parking garage and no issues, the doors unlocked with the remote and the truck started up.

Few days later I was sitting in a parking spot waiting for one of my sons after hockey practice. The truck was off, but I had the radio on for a few minutes - maybe 5 mins at most. My son arrives and tries to get in the front passenger side door, but it's locked b/c I hadn't opened the driver door when I arrived. I hit the unlock button and nothing happens, I can hear the door actuators trying to open but it's a weak sound and nothing happens. I started the truck up and after a few seconds everything is back to normal and the doors unlock. However, as I'm driving away I start seeing random errors popping up for the right rear door being ajar, then the front passenger door is ajar etc. I drove home from the rink, about 10 mins, and everything settles down and I don't have any issues locking the truck.

I thought maybe the battery was having issues so I hooked up my batter tender and trickle charged it for the remainder of the afternoon/evening. When I hooked it up the charged showed a steady red light which meant it was below 80%. I left it charging for the balance of that afternoon/evening until the charger went green. Everything was fine over the weekend, no issues with warning lights or weak door actuators etc. I also connected the truck to forscan to check for any error codes and it provided 3:

(1) driver side mirror vertical position
(2) passenger side mirror horizontal position
(3) steering angle sensor

I cleared the codes and everything was fine. This morning I started the truck via the auto-start remote and let it warm up for 5 minutes. When I went outside and tried to unlock the doors they wouldn't open - the exterior lights came on (puddle lamps, rear cargo lamp etc.), but the doors weren't unlocking. I could hear the actuators trying to work very faintly. I turned off the truck and tried the locks again, but could just barely hear the actuators trying to work. I used my key to try and physically unlock the driver door, but I couldn't - it's like the lock was fighting being opened. I tried starting the truck again using the auto-start and that worked...then about 10 seconds later I was able to open the doors with the remote.

When I arrived at the office this morning I parked the truck and did a quick walk around to check out each of the doors. Nothing was ajar - but I did notice the interior lights were very dim after having the doors open for a few mins and come to think of it, I don't think they were on at all when I finally got the door open this morning. When I tried locking the doors the truck started double honking - like there's a door open.

So, it seems obvious that the battery might be having an issue - but wouldn't there be a problem starting the truck if that's the case? Or does the electrical system shut everything else down to preserve the starting power? If it's a low battery issue, then why couldn't I open the driver door with my key? Is there something else I should be checking?
 

CoronaRaptor

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I would check the battery terminals for cleanliness and also check the wiring in the drivers door jam where the loom enters the cab, if there's a cut in the wiring it could cause these problems, suspect your battery is probably old as well. How old is it?
 
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mcbagpiper

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Thanks, I've checked the wiring harness in the driver door and I didn't see any issues. I had noted broken wires in the rear passenger door about 6 months ago and patched those already.

I'm not sure how old the battery is, but it's not the original. It looks fairly new and the terminals are in good shape - I'll have to check and see if there's a production date stamped on it somewhere.

The last item that was installed was my GJ motorsports 3rd brake light, but that was over a month ago and I haven't had any issues with the light itself. I checked the connections just in case something came loose and everything is good in that respect.

It's odd that I have no issues starting the truck, but the powered items inside are having an issue until the truck is running.
 

Irregular F150

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I also have that stupid random door locking issue on mine. No codes pop up.

Plus at times the drivers door is hard to pull the handle from the inside. I cant pinpoint the issue but sometimes its after i wash it so i think its probably the lock actuator.

The rear doors idk, I haven’t checked the battery or wires yet either Lol.

Ive only had one time the remote start didnt want to work. I hit the lock and tapped the start twice and all it did was beep. Wtf lol
 

CoronaRaptor

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Thanks, I've checked the wiring harness in the driver door and I didn't see any issues. I had noted broken wires in the rear passenger door about 6 months ago and patched those already.

I'm not sure how old the battery is, but it's not the original. It looks fairly new and the terminals are in good shape - I'll have to check and see if there's a production date stamped on it somewhere.

The last item that was installed was my GJ motorsports 3rd brake light, but that was over a month ago and I haven't had any issues with the light itself. I checked the connections just in case something came loose and everything is good in that respect.

It's odd that I have no issues starting the truck, but the powered items inside are having an issue until the truck is running.
I didn't think the gen 1's had battery monitors like the gen 2's, maybe the later 13 and 14's do, IDK for sure. @FordTechOne might know.
 

FordTechOne

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I didn't think the gen 1's had battery monitors like the gen 2's, maybe the later 13 and 14's do, IDK for sure. @FordTechOne might know.
Correct. No BMS on Gen 1.

I would definitely recommend having the battery tested first. If the battery tests good, inspect the BCM, connectors, and grounds located behind the driver and passenger side kick panels. Those grounds are used for both the power windows as well as the power locks.
 
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mcbagpiper

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Awesome, thanks for the response - I'll have to check those items. I left the office at noon to go run some errands and I noticed the following:

- truck started without any issue, however I received a warning that the front and rear passenger doors were open (even though they weren't).

- the specific door ajar warning (i.e. the large icon that tells you which door is open) could be cleared from the screen by pressing the ok button, but the little generic door ajar icon on the dash stayed on. The interior lights also stayed on for a good 3 minutes (very dim) as I drove out of the parking garage, finally turning off when the door ajar symbol disappeared.

- I took the highway, thinking a faster run would help charge if the battery was low. I noticed after driving for 10 mins when I turned on the map reading light it was back to normal strength, but if I hit the lock/unlock button it would cause a door ajar warning to pop up again momentarily and then it would quickly disappear.

- Arrived at my destination and tried the door lock, the exterior lights flash as though it's locking, but it doesn't actually lock the doors.

- I plugged in the trickle charger following the 25 min long drive and it was showing "red", which suggests < 80% charge again.

As noted, no problem at all starting the truck - it doesn't sound like it's struggling to crank or turnover, but just looking at the interior lights alone I feel like it's going to be dead when I turn the key.
 

CoronaRaptor

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You better check your connections in the door jams again and the areas @FordTechOne mentioned, you could have 2 issues, short in wiring and a low battery, but I would try to solve the wiring issue first as it has a way of messing with your mind, lol.
 
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mcbagpiper

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Well, the prize goes to FordTechOne! I'm not too proud to admit the issue, hopefully it will help someone else in the future with a similar error. The "check your grounds in both footwells" comment made me think.

The only ground connection that's been touched recently (a month ago) was the one in the passenger side footwell as part of my installation of the GJ 3rd brake light. The kit requires a ground for the flood lights, and the closest one is located near the upfitter wiring just below the glovebox. I started taking apart the kick panel to have a look and noticed I couldn't move the passenger seat back, it was completely dead even though the driver seat still had power...hmmm. I twisted underneath the passenger dash armed with a flashlight and found the grounding point. The screw was tight, however I could press against the grounding cable and it moved slightly towards the body of the truck. When I looked up while pressing the wire I could see the lights go from dim to full power again!

Upon closer inspection, the grounding ring has a locator pin and that wasn't properly aligned to the hole when I tightened it down. It's a very tight space with a socket or wrench so I didn't realize at the time the locator pin wasn't aligned. As a result, the screw felt like it was snug, but the grounding ring hadn't fully seated against the frame. It must have have separated just enough over the past couple of days to start causing intermittent issues. I guess the problems went away when the truck was running because it was generating a better ground that "bridged" the weak point?

Doors are now locking, lights are coming on full strength and passenger seat has power - all appears to be fine again!! Despite my stupidity I'm very happy it was something relatively obvious at the end of the day. Now I won't have to second guess the reliability of the truck - just the idiot behind the wheel :)
 
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