Dual battery ARB fridge and bed track install

[wheelman55]

I added the dual battery setup in the early summer of 2017 to my 2018 Raptor. It's been working really well for me.

This winter I added a ZAMP 180 watt folding system to keep the battery charged when I stay in the same spot.

Here's what I used for the dual battery setup:

1. Hellroaring solid state isolator.
2. ARB Elements fridge.
3. ARB slider. ARB Elements tie down.
4. Battleborn LiFeP04 12v 100ah battery.
5. Plastic battery box to hold the BB battery.
6. Wire, crimp on connectors, heat wrap, clamps, heat shrink, etc. from Tony Candella/CEAuto Electric Supply.
7. Anderson connectors.
8. Mac's Tie Downs - tracks and connectors

Here's how I did the install:

1. Pretty easy install as I had done one in my '93 F250.
2. Mounted the isolator on the passenger's side firewall. Used nutserts in the aluminum firewall.
3. Ran 8 gauge stranded wire from isolator to the bed. Installed a hole in the inside passenger side of the box near the top to run the wires.
4. Installed the aux battery in the bed. FYI there is room next to the passenger side frame rail if you want to install the aux battery under the bed.
5. Anderson plugs connect the aux battery to the new harness, and connect aux battery to fridge. Allows the battery and fridge to be removed when I need the entire bed.
6. Mac's versatrack rails installed in the bed. I used three versatrack rails: driver's side, passenger's side, and #3 to the left of the passenger's side versatrack spaced to hold the ARB slider.
7. ARB Elements slider attaches to the Mac's rails with screw on connectors.
8. Battleborn LiFeP04 12v 100ah battery, in a plastic battery box.
9. Made a simple cage to fit the bottom of the box with 1-1/2" aluminum angle, cut to size. Drilled holes in the corners of aluminum angles to attach to the Mac's versatrack rails. The aluminum angle cage attaches to the Mac's tracks, the battery box straps into the cage.
10. ARB slider bolts to the Mac's tracks. Fridge attaches to the slider with an ARB tie down.

Have fun!

Links:
Battery isolator
Wire, heat shrink, crimp connectors, and great advice
Harbor Freight - nutsert/rivnut tool
Track - I used the "wide contour" versatrack
ZAMP Solar - Back Country Solar - great service

Track install:

Mac's VersaTie Track in 18 Raptor

I used three 6' tracks. One kit of two tracks and fittings, plus one additional 6' predrilled track:

Track Kit - Surface Mount, Wide Contour (Series 3) - VersaTie

I added some M10 studs to attach the ARB slider and to attach the second battery behind the fridge.

M10 Threaded Stud

I skipped a hole on each track because the hole ended up right on top of the bed supports, leaving no access from the bottom to attach nuts. I drilled new holes in the track towards the cab end and decided to leave one hole out in the middle of each track.

Since I am OCD I'll go back at some point and either drill new holes or put rivnuts in the positions where the holes are over the supports.

Also on the OCD side...if you use a wide woodworker's countersink 82° Countersink - Lee Valley Tools you'll be able to mark the center of the new hole positions. The countersink that I used is wider than the access holes in the track so it centered for me. Then drill with progressively larger bits.

I installed the first hole at the tailgate end...I positioned the end of the track 5-1/2" from the tailgate end to miss the bed support. This placed that screw hole 6" on center from the tailgate end. Bolt the track down, then put another hole in at the cab end and bolt the track down. I installed the holes at the cab end 6" from the front wall of the bed. This cleared the bed supports at the front.

DRILL THE HOLE IN THE DRIVER'S SIDE CAB END VERY SHALLOW. I didn't and drilled right through the filler tube exactly through the band clamp that holds the tube to the rubber hose. I ordered the part and had the Ford shop do the install. It was a $300 boo boo.

Once you have your track secured at the ends, center punch the other holes. It is important to get these holes right in the center. I've got a set of transfer punches that matched the hole size, centering the position.

Transfer Punch Set - Lee Valley Tools

Then, without removing the track, drill a 1/8" pilot hole exactly in the center of each hole. Remove the track and drill the holes to size. I drilled mine to 5/16" for a small amount of wiggle room. The hardware is 1/4-20 stainless steel. No worries about galvanic corrosion as all of the surfaces are covered in paint.

Pics later today.

 

[wheelman55]

Battery isolator:



Track install with ARB slider:

 

[rabidranger]

Pictures aren't loading. Is it just me, can everyone else see em?

 

[wheelman55]

Pictures aren't loading. Is it just me, can everyone else see em?

So sorry. Haven’t added pics yet.

Let me know what part of the install you want to know more about and I’ll see what I can get for you.

 

[rabidranger]

I was curious to see pics of the battery and isolator installed. Thanks!

 

[CoronaRaptor]

Pics for everybody! This sounds like a really cool install.

 

[wheelman55]

I was curious to see pics of the battery and isolator installed. Thanks!

Hellroaring isolator on right side of passenger firewall. The wiring goes along the frame and up into the passenger side bed in front of the wheel well. I installed a hole in the bed to run the wires. I used Tony Candella’s 8 gauge wire from isolator to battery.

To the left of the isolator connected to a simple aluminum bracket, I’ve got Deutsch 6 pin connectors for the aux wires and pass thru wires, with a relay between the two Deutsch units for the BD backup lights.

The battery sits in the bed, attached to the same two tracks as the ARB slider. I bolted 1-1/2” aluminum angles to the track to hold the battery in place and use a strap to hold the batt down in the aluminum angle cradle.

If you tackle this I’m ok with talking you thru on a phone call.

 

[BroncoAZ]

That is a spendy battery. I am looking for something similar, but at this point I’m looking to install the battery or multiple batteries in the cab, maybe where the factory jack goes behind the passenger rear seat. Worst case I think I can fit two of the 6V Optima Yellow Top in series, but I’m looking for something non Optima as they are junk now. Two AGM Power sport batteries are a possibility.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XX197GJ/?tag=fordraptorforum-20

I’ve got a setup in my sedan with a group 31 AGM battery for my ARB 37 quart fridge. I have had better luck with the Blue Sea automatic charging regulator rather than an isolator, less voltage loss.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000OTIPDQ/?tag=fordraptorforum-20

 

[wheelman55]

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Bronco. The Hellroaring isolator is solid state and has extremely low voltage loss. Check it out in the link that I posted above.

Plus it’s a small USA company that makes the top marine and automotive isolators. They actually answer the phone and are happy to talk you through the process.

 

[BroncoAZ]

Bronco. The Hellroaring isolator is solid state and has extremely low voltage loss. Check it out in the link that I posted above.

Plus it’s a small USA company that makes the top marine and automotive isolators. They actually answer the phone and are happy to talk you through the process.

Looking at the link they are significantly more advanced than the dumb isolators I’ve used in the past. I’m sure they are great, but Blue Sea isn’t generally viewed as garbage and costs $110 less. I like supporting small USA companies too, but there is a limit for me on the extra I’ll spend. I’m glad it works for you, but I’ve got other things I’m more interested in spending the extra money on.