Door Chime

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AndyMan

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I had my door open over the weekend and was listening to the radio and the chime wouldnt shut up. My HUD screen said "Door ajar" and I hit OK on my steering wheel, and the chime stopped. Not sure if I was on AC or ACC, etc, or if the engine was running, but I remember saying "omg I cant believe that worked."

Just tried this on my 2012; one key click forward (AC, screen not active in cluster and radio comes on) the OK button didn't turn off the chime, so I clicked the key one more forward (run position, screen active in cluster) and clicked the OK button for the door ajar warning and the chime quit (dash still shows a lit up image of a truck with the doors open)... didn't test it long to see if it comes back after a while but I thought I'd share for others to know.
 

BigJ

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Just tried this on my 2012; one key click forward (AC, screen not active in cluster and radio comes on) the OK button didn't turn off the chime, so I clicked the key one more forward (run position, screen active in cluster) and clicked the OK button for the door ajar warning and the chime quit (dash still shows a lit up image of a truck with the doors open)... didn't test it long to see if it comes back after a while but I thought I'd share for others to know.
Well now there we go. Confirmed on a 2010 SCab. Nice!

Dumb question: assuming the fans are off (AC/heater), does having the key in the run position drain the battery faster than in the accessory position? Seems like maybe it would?
 

Nick@Apollo-Optics

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Well now there we go. Confirmed on a 2010 SCab. Nice!

Dumb question: assuming the fans are off (AC/heater), does having the key in the run position drain the battery faster than in the accessory position? Seems like maybe it would?

I would assume yes as well because I feel like (on my non-Raptor) that when I turn the ignition on even with HVAC off I still hear various things kick on. But hell...I only know enough to be dangerous.
 

AndyMan

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Well now there we go. Confirmed on a 2010 SCab. Nice!

Dumb question: assuming the fans are off (AC/heater), does having the key in the run position drain the battery faster than in the accessory position? Seems like maybe it would?

I wouldn't say its a dumb question by any means, it's a very valid question and a good one to note for the rest of the forum members to think about.

I would say you are correct (though I could be wrong); common sense of a vehicle would suggest since its in the run position it is sending power to everything needed for the vehicle to run/operate; not just the radio, and windows like in the accessories position so in turn there are more things taking power, the faster the battery would drain.

Not much help I know just thought I'd help with the cautionary note of this option.
 
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Conejoracer

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I finally got tired of the chime altogether. I removed the dash bezel and gauge cluster. There are 6 bolts holding them in. I pulled the gauge cluster out and rotated it to access the back, leaving it plugged in the whole time. This is where it gets technical, I used a Phillips head jewelers screwdriver and I carefully stabbed the shit out of the speaker. It actually died on the first stab, but I gave it a few more to make sure (always double tap!).
I put it all back together and I love it. No more chime period, just the way I like it.
This mod takes all of 15 minutes.
 

magknow

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When any door is opened all of the exterior lights come on, with the exception of the high and low beams. Parking lights, clearance lights, courtesy lights, etc. I would appreciate info on how to bypass/override this Christmas tree effect.

---------- Post added at 10:36 PM ---------- Previous post was at 10:32 PM ----------

When any door is opened all of the exterior lights come on, with the exception of the high and low beams. Parking lights, clearance lights, courtesy lights, etc. I would appreciate info on how to bypass/override this Christmas tree effect.
:rage:
 

Wilson

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didn't notes a chime when my door was open. also if you have your key in the on position not only are you powerd up your fule pump ran
 

1stSFG

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I finally got tired of the chime altogether. I removed the dash bezel and gauge cluster. There are 6 bolts holding them in. I pulled the gauge cluster out and rotated it to access the back, leaving it plugged in the whole time. This is where it gets technical, I used a Phillips head jewelers screwdriver and I carefully stabbed the shit out of the speaker. It actually died on the first stab, but I gave it a few more to make sure (always double tap!).
I put it all back together and I love it. No more chime period, just the way I like it.
This mod takes all of 15 minutes.

*****....death by paper cuts.....Technical? lol,yes,always double tap.


Yes,the battery will drain faster in the key on position than the acc. Yes your fuel pump is powered with the key on position.
 
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