DIY stereo upgrade for under $500.00

[Oldfart]

Iphone or Android work perfect for the car. Or you could also just load directly onto a USB stick.

At home, there are plenty of ways to get your phone or computers hooked up to you tv / stereo. I have several apple tv's hooked up to several stereos at my home. easy way to get whole home audio.

Thanks

 

[MAS]

******* this is a long thread! It started with a Sony system but as I skimmed across later pages it seems the B&O system might be slightly different. Does the list shown below for door speaker replacement still apply for a 2018 Raptor with B&O system? If not can someone copy the list of items to purchase that works?

Thanks for the info, sorry for not having the patience to read thru 73 pages of info.

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Pioneer 6x9 4 way speakers TS-A6986R
Pioneer 6.5 4 way speakers. TS-A1686R
Pioneer 3.5 inch 2 way speaker TS-A878
Pioneer 3/4 inch dome tweeters TS-T110

Metra 825607 rear mounts
Metra 825606 front mounts





Guy

 

[K223]

Are there any male/female plugs with a pigtail on them available for the factory B&O sub plugs by chance?

Been on this thread for a long time and didn’t think from what I can remember. I’m experimenting before I may do a complete revamp of the system eventually.

Also what’s a safe length battery to amp power cable to go with? Looking to go along the passenger side and then come to the left side of the truck.

I take it, there’s a solid grounding point behind the rear seat to? Bolt or nut I can ground to solidly.

 

[smurfslayer]

what’s a safe length battery to amp power cable to go with? Looking to go along the passenger side and then come to the left side of the truck.

25 or 30’ will get you there.

I take it, there’s a solid grounding point behind the rear seat to? Bolt or nut I can ground to solidly.

Yes... but, you really should run a home run for the ground as well.

 

[Raptor Vet]

Before you go too much trouble...like reading the whole thread or expense whether $100 , $500 or even $3000 make sure you have a good signal to judge your system. Satellite signal is the worst!!! If radio make sure you are listening to a channel that broadcast a HD signal. Or try a CD. Spotify premium works for me. Once I made this change my system seemed adequate if not good for my old ass ears. Many Thanks to EN4SER for pointing that out to me. You just got to be able to get past no power to the rear speakers and realize your B&O system pushes sound out from the front like you are at a concert. If you insist on a change, the thread is WELL worth reading...all of it!!!!

 

[K223]

25 or 30’ will get you there.



Yes... but, you really should run a home run for the ground as well.

25 or 30’ will get you there.



Yes... but, you really should run a home run for the ground as well.

Really 25’ to 30’ ? No I’m not building an amp rack on the tailgate lol. I am going to run along the passenger side of the truck, but I don’t know the best or easiest routing scenario yet, so I will have to take your advice where extra may be the safest bet.

So is this the best way as agreed on today? Ground should be a home run direct to the battery? Best for noise isolation and current? To be honest in all the systems I have done in the past and there have been many, from small upgrades to larger installs, I have always found a good solid grounding point on the vehicles body or frame and never had problems.

I have run a lot of 2/0 and thick cables in race car builds, when relocating a battery to the rear of the vehicle for better weight distribution. And optimizing cables to the battery and grounds from the frame to battery and engine block was always key for max cranking current. So I’m always open to listen to best practices of late.

 

[smurfslayer]

Really. Battery to firewall - here’s where some have taken a different route from me and gone through the passenger side firewall. i went across the firewall to the driver’s side, and along the door sill to the driver’s side amp location. I got one 30’ run and made a 25’ run work as well with less leftover.

Yes, there is a good ground bolt right around the factory amp area. @dhmcfadin relayed earlier that as you start pushing more and more power, the quality of ground becomes more important. YMMV. I’ve used in on the 300w amp I had before the 500w sub amp, but it’s almost literally no extra work to run a ground with the power wire.

 

[goblues38]

Are there any male/female plugs with a pigtail on them available for the factory B&O sub plugs by chance?

Yes, they are out there.....i soldered my own and it was not that bad at all.

Also what’s a safe length battery to amp power cable to go with? Looking to go along the passenger side and then come to the left side of the truck.

20 feet is more then enough to run down the passenger side. There is a factory hole and grommet under the carpet just below the heater core.

I take it, there’s a solid grounding point behind the rear seat to? Bolt or nut I can ground to solidly.

If you are using the NAV TV with theB&O system, ou should plan on running both power and ground to the battery. The NAV TV unit is very picky about it's ground.

 

[goblues38]

Many Thanks to EN4SER for pointing that out to me. !

Glad to help.

 

[K223]

Yes, they are out there.....i soldered my own and it was not that bad at all.




20 feet is more then enough to run down the passenger side. There is a factory hole and grommet under the carpet just below the heater core.




If you are using the NAV TV with theB&O system, ou should plan on running both power and ground to the battery. The NAV TV unit is very picky about it's ground.

Ok awesome thanks man. Guess I can just solder and heat shrink. If I knew who sold these pigtail adapter plugs, I might have just used them.