Thanks for the feedback guys. It’s pretty clear on how to move on this. Between time I have on hand for another project and spending money before the holidays all adds into my dilemma.
I had a 10” Phoenix Gold sub powered by a JL Audio Slash series 500x1 amp in my last truck for years. It was in a small fiberglass enclosure made for the under seat storage compartment and it thumped! Was plenty of bass for me. Had cars in the day with two 15’s and mega Amps. Been there done that. I even pushed two 12’s in my Iroc back in the day with a single Punch 45 at maybe 1/2 ohm. It lived, could fry and egg on it and sounded fairly decent just to say I could do it lol
Anyway a 10” in the Raptor would be awesome. Again no replacement for displacement. Unless your force fed and in this case heavily amp over powered maybe. By the way who makes a behind the seat 10” enclosure for our trucks? I’d I go his route? Otherwise I just may have to upgrade the 8” driver on the factory enclosure. I want to preserve the floor space for now.
So I will need the Zen and an amp to move forward. 12w per channel in a 70k truck? Dang, really Ford? Even high power radio’s blow that spec away. I’ll presume this is RMS power and not peak lol
I thought maybe even with the Zen I could pickup signal and get it into the Zen and power the sub to start. But it sounds like the amp and factory Signal processor is a combined component. So I hear what your saying now. Would need something like 50w to the doors/pillars and another 500 to the woof. 5 channel would be the most compact yes.
The Zen is the only choice or the best choice for us basically?
Yes, you need the zen and 5 channel amp. You need dedicated power and ground for your amp. The only component that will continue to use the factory harness is the zen. When you install the zen, all b&o components are removed from the truck (sub, amp, processor). You will be able to tie into the existing speaker harness at the rear of your truck for front and rear door speakers. No need to run new wires for those. You will however have to run new tweeter channels to the a-pillars as the b&o amp did not handle tweeter channels. The headunit did. Just disconnect the factory tweeter channels in the a-pillars and run new wire to each from your crossover. Very easy to do.