Cutting tie rod to get correct toe?

[PorterW1111]

Just got done loading a whole new front setup. Icon 3.0 shocks, icon ucas, RPG tie rods, new rotors and pads, a frame cut bumper and 37” grabber x3s

Nothing I haven’t seen or read about a hundred times over.

Took it get alignment and the tech says he needs to cut 5/8” off the inner tie rod on the pass side in order to get the tie correct.

I called RPG, actually FaceTimed them and they have never heard of anyone cutting their tie rods before. I trust the shop, very reputable but still feel like something is off here.

Anyone ever heard of this needing to be done?

 

[B E N]

Something isn't right. I would pull the tie rods off, compare them side by side to check differences and make sure they are installed correctly. 5/8" is a lot, definitely something else going on.

 

[Deleted member 12951]

Did you install this yourself?

I have no idea what your alignment tech is talking about, there is no inner tie rod with RPG, its one solid single tie rod that has lock nuts on each side with heims. I see plenty of adjustment thread on the passenger side and imagine there is also thread on the side by the rack too. There is an inner and outer with the stock tie rods.

When you installed them did you match it with the one you took off and made them as close as the same length before installing? And leave equal amount of threads on each side?

If so, ask for someone else to look at it or show them how an aftermarket tie rod works. I have to do that on mine, I walk back there and show the tech to remove the boot and once I show them, they always get how it works. But if they just start cranking on the tie rod without loosing both nuts (stock they just loosen one nut), they aren’t going to be able to make adjustments.

 

[PorterW1111]

Did you install this yourself?

I have no idea what your alignment tech is talking about, there is no inner tie rod with RPG, its one solid single tie rod that has lock nuts on each side with heims. I see plenty of adjustment thread on the passenger side and imagine there is also thread on the side by the rack too. There is an inner and outer with the stock tie rods.

When you installed them did you match it with the one you took off and made them as close as the same length before installing? And leave equal amount of threads on each side?

If so, ask for someone else to look at it or show them how an aftermarket tie rod works. I have to do that on mine, I walk back there and show the tech to remove the boot and once I show them, they always get how it works. But if they just start cranking on the tie rod without loosing both nuts (stock they just loosen one nut), they aren’t going to be able to make adjustments.

I did do the install myself. But am no newby when it comes this this kind of stuff. Hence why I am overly concerned with this shops opinion. I did get the tie rods as close as I could when installed. Used the string around all four tires method.

This is the fourth shop I have been to. First one tires were too big for the alignment wheels clamps. Second one the truck was too wide for their rack. Third one the guy just canceled on me when I showed up and now this one....

The truck has been at their shop all weekend since they couldn’t figure it out and are closed sat and Sunday. The more I think about it the more I think the tech tried to make the adjustments by loosening the spindle side lock nut and the billet rod wouldn’t move. So tech thinking the heim thread is bottoming our inside the rod. So cut some of the thread on the heim and it will go in further.... really the tech just needs to loosen the rack side lock hit and then the rod will adjust....

my favorite quote from them was, oh we do this all the time, especially on chevys...

I even FaceTimed RPG while in the shop and they were like no way you should never have to cut the heim thread....

Hoping to be standing at their door Monday morning to stop them before they break out the grinder.

 

[MTF]

Your LCA is set all the way back to the center of the truck and the UCA was adjusted for that.
This means your whole wheel is a good 1/2" to 1" in too far, making the tie-rod too long.

You have to move the whole LCA out first and then adjust the upper.
I would highly recommend a slot delete kit for the LCA!!!
You should have done that when you swapped to the adjustable UCA anyway.

 

[Deleted member 12951]

I have never seen it but I suppose the tie rods were not drilled all the way and threaded. With both lock nut fully loose as far as they can go, turn the tie rod fully then turn it fully the other way. It should bottom out on both sides and that means you have full adjustment and the tie rods holes are drilled correctly.

I also have the ICON UCA. But I left them in the same position as stock. I cannot find a shop in my area that knows how to properly do an alignment from the uppers. They only know from the LCA and tie rods. So I don’t have slot deletes but do have the SPC HD Cams that haven’t moved when off-roading. I have the SDHQ tie rods which are the same design as RPG and other aftermarket tie rods.

Have them show you why they think it needs to be cut, bet they didn’t loosen the other side. And yes if they can align using the UCA then move the rear LCA arm out as far as possible as MTF said.

 

[MTF]

KHC does the alignment with the UCA, may be worth giving them a call for tips on how to.
They design and sell different LCA slot delete and cam kits.

 

[PorterW1111]

Your LCA is set all the way back to the center of the truck and the UCA was adjusted for that.
This means your whole wheel is a good 1/2" to 1" in too far, making the tie-rod too long.

You have to move the whole LCA out first and then adjust the upper.
I would highly recommend a slot delete kit for the LCA!!!
You should have done that when you swapped to the adjustable UCA anyway.

This is it, I guarantee. Should not have left the truck with them...

Based on all of your guys feedback and not one person here mentioning to cut it. Plus ALLL the other adjustment points that could be used. Cutting is the last resort and would like to keep my $$ tie rods unharmed!

Going to go pick up the truck in the morning and do it myself. Did some research people are getting good results with at home camber and 2 wheel alignment tools.

Hopefully I can get it back from the chop shop without too much damage. Won’t sleep tonight... haha

 

[PorterW1111]

Ok update.

good news: got to the shop before they broke out the grinder. Explained to them that there are a lot of other adjustments and I can take the truck and do those myself. Because they didn’t do any of the services got out with no charge.

the bad: turns out the tech didn’t loosen the rack side lock nut. Then cranked on the tie rod so hard that he actually started unscrewing the Clevis from the rack. That’s A LOT or torquing.

just ordered the RPG lca mount doubler/trippler and will order the locking cams too.

 

[MTF]

There are a couple of posts from guys in Florida recommending shops.

I found one but there are more. "California Customs in Dania Beach"

I don't know where in Florida you are but here's a thread you could post in:
https://www.fordraptorforum.com/threads/south-florida-raptors.30749/