Clear Undercoat

[PS94]

I used the Amsoil, but found that Plasti-dip makes a clear spray on....anyone try it?
When I used the amsoil, I didn't let it get hard before I drove the truck, and I have dirt stuck in places in it now...:/

I use Fluid Film regularly, and I don't think I'd use it as an undercoat...cable lube, chain lube, hinge lube, anything that moves gets it...its freaking amazing...but as an unercoat, you're wasting your time...

Edit - Looked at the webpage, seems they recommend it....Odd. I think it'd pressure wash off at a regular car wash...

 

[Mike Hammer]

Over all how did the Amsoil do for you? How long do you have it on the truck? Anything rusting so far?

 

[Mike Hammer]

Here is an example. I was working on my patio last night, finished 6PM, left the screwdriver out. Found it today at 4PM (next day) Only 23 hrs out.

 

[Mike Hammer]

Ok we are almost ready.

1st picture is the way the steel came in
2nd Picture is them sanded down
3rd picture is the products we will test.
I have a Temp Gage and Humidity tester in the 3rd picture, so we at least know where we are at.

I got four of these here McMaster-Carr. http://www.mcmaster.com/#catalog/118/3653/=j2wa2l
Our samples will be 3/16" Thick, 2-1/4" Width, 12" Length
One for each product and the 4th we will leave in the raw.

Description of the steel says:
General Purpose Low-Carbon Steel
Often used for structural and automotive applications, this low-carbon steel also has good weldability.

Rectangular Bars—Unpolished Mill Finish (Cold Finished)
Hardness: Rockwell B72-B86
Yield Strength: 45,000-55,000 psi


I hope to set it up this weekend. I will post back when set up.

 

[beemerman]

Just did the amsoil heavy duty metal protector under the truck today. Hit the whole underbody took 6 cans. Really came out nice. Took about 2 hours on the lift. Took off the wheels so I could hit the backing plates. Also the skid plates too.Used the supplied extension straws to get into the hidden spots. It sets up after about 30 minutes and has a yellowish tint to it. A little mineral spirits is all it took to take it off the shocks. Used a old car cover to cover the truck so the paint is protected. Amazing how much of the truck is bare metal. Jack


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

 

[Mike Hammer]

Ok we are started.

I degreased each piece, wore gloves so no oils from my hand got on the steel.

I checked the weather 91 degrees and humidity 52% from the web for my town, it checks out with the temp gage at 104 degrees temp and 49% Humidity, so we are accurate there. The overall temp is a little higher, that may be the heat from the plastic table. The humidly seems close, a few points off. It was past 4PM when I started.

The place I picked will get sun all day long. Its 4PM look at the shadow on the Boeshield. So the sun will rise on the right side of the product The East and set down on the left side of the product the west.

I gave the pieces a real good coat of each product, I did the sides, top and bottom. I may accelerate the process by spraying with salt water but let's see what happens first. I check back each week here with pics.

First impressions smell:

The Amsol smells the best, the Boeshield comes in 2nd and the Fluid Flim 3rd. The FF I would wear a good mask if doing my truck. May be a good idea for all of them. But the FF was strong!

Putting the product on, all went on easy. The Boeshield had a tighter spray pattern. And yes I know I can use the straw with all of them but I did not

I did spray an old rusted squeegee with Fluid Flim and it bubbled alott right on the product. It looked like a fight was going on between them and then the FF covered it and soaked it.
I guess the FF won, It was impressive to watch. I sprayed many rusted things around here with no side show happening.

 

[Prybar]

This is a next level test Mike. Thanks!

 

[Macman]

Cool test, I am looking at ordering the Amsoil to put on as soon as my truck arrives so this test will show if its worth while or not!

 

[Mike Hammer]

One guy painted all the welds before clear under coat. Sounds like a good idea. It can't hurt.

" F-150 frames are composed of several parts of galvanized steel all bonded together by what's called stick welding. When the weld bonds the pieces together the galvanized coating is burned away ,After all the frame is assembled it is painted the first place you will notice rust appearing is at all the welds. Because of the welding process ferrite deposits are already eating away the factory paint .Oxygen is a corrosive so whether it's in the air or the water it will start rust bleeding thru the welds.

Take a small brush and coat all the stick welds with a good oil based rust inhibiter like rust-oleum this will form a bond on the factory paint.
Also look over anywhere your paint is scrathed away or chipped and grid out a pattern and coat with paint."

 

[Allied Offroad]

Awesome test Mike! I really like that you followed the scientific process, and added a control as well. Can't wait to see the results. You briefly touched on it, but can you elaborate on the ease of application of each product, basically what was the easiest to apply in your opinion and maybe some of your initial impressions of each. Also which was the most expensive, and which was the easiest to find?