Car Stereo speaker harness adapter for B&O

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grumble

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200 watts into a 2-ohm load. P=I^2*R yields 200=2*I^2
I^2 = 100
I=10 amps.
In order to handle 10 amps, you're going to need 11 awg wire if it's ever going to be run at anywhere near close to full output.
I'm not trying to get into a pissing match. I'm trying to convince him to not take the risk of setting a $60k truck on fire.
 

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dhmcfadin

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200 watts into a 2-ohm load. P=I^2*R yields 200=2*I^2

I^2 = 100

I=10 amps.

In order to handle 10 amps, you're going to need 11 awg wire if it's ever going to be run at anywhere near close to full output.

I'm not trying to get into a pissing match. I'm trying to convince him to not take the risk of setting a $60k truck on fire.



I am not saying you are wrong, you are right 100%. Just depends on the situation at hand and if you are going to rolling around with your stereo cranked to 100 everyday all day. I have nothing against replacing wire, about to start my new build for my 18 and I’m replacing all the speaker wire. It’s just a poa if you aren’t going utilize all that power.


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gijosh28

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So can I run 12awg? Do I really need to run 10ga speaker wire? Why is no one putting fuses on speaker wire if this is a such a concern?

I'm not going to lie, I've installed a few car stereos with 200+ watts to mids and highs with 14ga wire. According to your chart I should have used at least 12ga (at 4Ω).
 
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gijosh28

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i think people are forgetting the fact the speaker signal is ac current. ac current can travel much farther and with much less signal loss and less heat.

So, what are your thoughts on speaker wire size in this application?
Amps in the back of the truck cab, speakers in the front doors and a pillars. Does it matter if the crossover is in the door with the midrange, or if it is back on the amp rack?

200 watts at 2Ω
200 watts at 4Ω
 

BBLV

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At 200w+ I would use 12g wire. ~100w or less I would use 14-16g. 500w+ I would use 10g.

In a car IMO we're not talking wire distances where 2, 4 or 8 ohms is going to make a difference for practical purposes...
 

The Car Stereo Company

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So, what are your thoughts on speaker wire size in this application?
Amps in the back of the truck cab, speakers in the front doors and a pillars. Does it matter if the crossover is in the door with the midrange, or if it is back on the amp rack?

200 watts at 2Ω
200 watts at 4Ω
there are no issues with the oem wiring. there really isnt a need to run new wires.
 

grumble

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Meh ok. Stock wiring will always work fine, right up until the volume (therefore output power) level hits a point where it doesn't work fine.

FYI - current is current. DC vs. AC (rms) there is no difference in how much a wire can handle between the two. The statement that AC can travel much farther with much less signal loss and less heat is simply erroneous. My degrees in EE and CS and real world experience tell me so. Y'all can believe what you will, and 99% of the time you're probably going to work out fine because that 99% of the time you don't have output levels up to a point where you're hitting the maximum sustained current to heat the conductors up - Music is dynamic so you rarely see it - but if you're driving around with the volume level jacked up to near max listening to Li'l John or Ludacris...well... i rest my case - especially if you are driving the mid-bass at high levels.

Y'all carry on.
 
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gijosh28

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I contacted Molex and they identified the male mate to this connector but it is an oem designed piece so that male side is made to mate to a pci board. I have both plugs ordered. As soon as I can confirm they are correct, I will post the part numbers. They will be plug and play but you will have to build the harness for your application.


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Any update on your order of Molex connectors?
 

The Car Stereo Company

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again, missing the point. 200 watts of ac current at roughly 35-40 volts produces much less current draw than 200 watts of dc power. normally when tuning a system a speaker output will be between 30 and 40 volts. subwoofers around 70 -80 on the high side. these are just general numbers, but do the math and the speaker output current isnt near what the dc draw would be. i think the confusion here is the amp ratings are dc, meant for power cable, and not for speaker signal which is ac.
 
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