GEN 1 Can't shift out of Park, Starts/runs fine. Dash works but everything else electrical is off.

Adam Miller

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2010 6.2

Background info

A couple months ago I had the third brake light issue with Hill Descent Control warning. Also, when the lights were on I would get that Hill Descent Control fault and cruise control would not work. If I turned the truck off and back on again without turning on the lights, I could use cruise. I ordered the GJ Motorsport/Baja Designs replacement which finally arrived a week ago and I installed it last weekend. (Well, the grey connector is plugged in, the harness is run to the passenger kick panel, and I did attach the ground terminal to a frame bolt. I haven't hooked the ambers into the Aux switch yet.) I have driven the car several times and close to 100 miles since, all without any issue whatsoever. I was able to use the lights and cruise control together.

The new problem/symptoms
This morning I got the Hill Descent Control fault and the radio shut off (I think there was some other dash warning too). I stopped at a light, shut it off, and restarted the truck but the warning(s) persist--gauge cluster works but nothing else electrical does. Tail/brake lights, signals, emergency flashers, power windows, stereo and display are all off. The truck with start and run perfectly. However, I can't shift out of Park. I was dead in the water, trying to arrange roadside assistance until I figured out how to yank the center console and manually release the shifter lock, so I was able to drive it home (again, without any lights).

Where to look?
I'm fairly mechanically inclined and do a lot of work, especially on my motorcycles, but less adept with electrics. My instincts say the possible culprits could be brake switch/transmission interlock, fuse or relay, short in a wire somewhere, bad or corroded connector, or bad module. But where to begin. Can someone help me narrow things down?
 

The Car Stereo Company

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not making a sound means its not getting its signal. i have a strong feeling this is a bcm issue. i have had several inquiries over the years with different issues, but many overlapping issues as well, and each one turned out to be a bcm. i know the bcm was around $700 a few years ago. but it will also need to be programmed. im just guessing here, however @FordTechOne might have better insight
 
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Adam Miller

Adam Miller

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In searching, I notice that it lists the BCM as part number AL3Z-15604-D for 2010 and BL3Z-15604-A for 2011, and that's ALL Ford vehicles for that year. Sounds like I would indeed want the one for 2010, but I'm just checking since it is the 6.2.

By the way, it's not the brake pressure switch. I just replaced that and made no difference.
 
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CoronaRaptor

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I wonder if you can get one out of a junkyard and reprogram it or not?

Have you tried disconnecting the battery for at least 15 minutes to see if the bcm resets itself?
 
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Adam Miller

Adam Miller

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I haven't. I suppose it couldn't hurt. If that doesn't work then I have a shift interlock solenoid arriving tomorrow. And if that doesn't work I've got a new BCM waiting in an online shopping cart.
 

CoronaRaptor

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I haven't. I suppose it couldn't hurt. If that doesn't work then I have a shift interlock solenoid arriving tomorrow. And if that doesn't work I've got a new BCM waiting in an online shopping cart.
It's worth a try, it's free. Keep us informed.
 
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Adam Miller

Adam Miller

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Battery reset did not work. I picked up a new shift interlock solenoid, removed the console, and undid the 4 bolts holding the shifter assembly in place. I did not see the part matching the solenoid--is it deeper down or somewhere else? What I did find though, was the broken off little curved plastic arm with roller that rides along the shift position detents. Not sire if I broke it during my ham-****** disassembly, or if this could be part of the cause (doubt it), but I said screw it and ordered the whole shifter assembly as well as the BCM from Ford. Hopefully I'll have it by the end of the week.

As for reprogramming, I'll have to decide whether to get the software utilty or just bite the bullet and have the dealership reprogram it.

In the meantime, can someone shed light on where that shift interlock solenoid goes?
 

rightway

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How about looking for some DTC trouble codes first from the OBDTII port to begin the trouble search?
 
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