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EricM

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What ring package are you running? That is by far the most important consideration, aside from a good piston design. If it's not a SS or ductile iron top ring- you are wasting your time.
 
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cwylie

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Im running a the custom RMB piston he has build by JE I believe. I spoke at length with him about his piston design. I have no doubt he is done everything he can to make these strong as possible including retaining the oil squirters when many remove them or notch the piston to fit them. With the stock crank, his forged rods and pistons he said he would have no issue running this bottom end to a 1000hp. Obviously that will not be possible ported heads, cams and larger turbos but it should be 100% bulletproof for my wants of 600-650hp. This motor is not cheap by any means but I have no doubt Ryan is the best guy for it. He is extremely knowledgeable and transparent. At no point have I ever felt like he was selling me something I dont want or need. If its not obvious by his pictures his attention to detail is 2nd to none.
 

EricM

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So what material and brand are you running for the top ring and oil rings? That's what really matters. Assuming the piston doesn't outright collapse, the rings are what really bears the brunt. Just look at your original failed engine. I've seen many "race engines" built with moly coated rings because the builder like how easy they seat. Well, yea- duh, but they'll never live. Seating a SS top ring is difficult, but it will not fail. Ductile iron is a good middle ground.

If it was mine and I was going all out- I'd build it with a SS top ring, use some of the quick seat break in stuff, and go WOT as soon as possible to seat the rings. I'm talking about "vroom- 1, 2, 3, 4, 5 OK no leaks" - then run it to redline about 10 times on the dyno.
 
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cwylie

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I will check with Ryan the rings are. The original engine failed because it got aluminum oxide blasting media in it when the coater didnt property plug the intercooler up before ceracoating it. I didnt know that until after the engine was fired and it was too late.
 

EricM

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Oh yea- I remember that thread. I'd definitely do your homework on the ring materials and gaps. It's YOUR engine. You can lean on someone else for assembly, but you should know what's available, and why one should choose one ring type over the other. It's really that critical.
 

Truckzor

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I have no doubt he is done everything he can to make these strong as possible including retaining the oil squirters when many remove them or notch the piston to fit them.

I'm curious to know more about this. I've heard that the oil squirters tend to break in high horsepower applications.
 
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cwylie

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Here is the info on the rings directly from Ryan:

Rings we use a 1.5mm stainless PVD coated top ring

2nd ring is a Napier custom cut ring.

Oil is a 2.8mm gas nitride typical scraper set. Spec expander ring is what is nice about the 3 pcs oil
 

brettmess24

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I completely understand being skeptical and needing the details and materials.

There is no reason to doubt RMB, they use the best methods and materials available and have built many eco boost motors with great attention to detail.

If he sees something he doesn’t like he has the part made and overbuilt to greater standards.

I would anticipate RMB to approach Katech quality and standards as they are with GM.


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