Best sound deadener

What's the best sound deadener?

  • Stinger

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  • FatMat

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  • Total voters
    5

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Chzhead

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Come spring time I want to put some sound deadener on the interior like I did my old '02 F150. I used DynaMat in my '02 but curious which is the best quality/preferred choice for our Raptors.
 

DWH3

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I recently used Noico on my Raptor. So far I've used their 80 mil product on the floor, roof, and rear panel and also added the 170 mil product to the roof. I'm planning to use both the 80 mil and 170 mil in the doors but I haven't had time yet. So far I've been very pleased with the quality but haven't driven it much to be able to give too much feedback on the amount of noise reduction. I should be able to give more feedback in the next few weeks. Let me know if you have any questions.
 
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Chzhead

Chzhead

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I recently used Noico on my Raptor. So far I've used their 80 mil product on the floor, roof, and rear panel and also added the 170 mil product to the roof. I'm planning to use both the 80 mil and 170 mil in the doors but I haven't had time yet. So far I've been very pleased with the quality but haven't driven it much to be able to give too much feedback on the amount of noise reduction. I should be able to give more feedback in the next few weeks. Let me know if you have any questions.


Interesting, that one I have not heard of. Thanks
 

B E N

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I voted for dynamat, mostly because its mainstream, high quality, and widely available. I used it on my Mustang 10 years ago and I've never had an issue with it. These days I like Kno Knoise by KnuKoncepts its an off brand, and about 2/3rds the cost. Both the foil and butyl layer are thicker than dynamat extreme, the only time this is a real downside is in complex curve areas. I adhere to the 20-25% coverage strategy, which means I am usually working on large flat areas of sheet metal so its a non issue. A shop pack of whatever product you like should do your whole truck with leftovers.
 

melvimbe

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I know very little about the differences in the brands, but isn't there different general types available now? Isn't it more import to use the right type in certainly locations rather than a specific brand? Or am I dead wrong.
 

B E N

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Your on the right track. There are multiple strategies used to quiet a vehicle depending on what result you want to achieve and there are different products for each strategy.

Dampening is the first step, and usually shows the biggest gains. It's what we are talking about specifically in this thread. There are 3 basic categories of damping materials:
1: Asphalt base (to be avoided at all costs, its the cheapest by far, but leaves a lingering unpleasant aroma and tends to fall apart in the extremes of the automotive environment, if you are looking at some cheap stuff on ebay or amazon and it doesnt specify its made of butyl is probably asphalt, walk away.)
2: Butyl base (which is what we are talking about here, its the easiest to apply, midrange cost and generally requires >25% coverage of sheet metal to get the best results, it really only works on sheet metals), there is also butyl rope which is really handy for jamming between stuff to stop rattles and jamming in holes to stop wind noise. You will often see 100% coverage on this, the only reason to do this is if your trying to stop the substrate from rusting or getting water exposure, it does a great job at stopping water, but you are paying a weight penalty.
3: Viscoelastic liquid dampners (second skin spectrum) this stuff is like a really thick paint you roll or spray on to whatever you are trying to deaden. Its very good for hard to reach places. It ends up being a little expensive per coverage area, and slow to apply as you often need a couple of coats, but if your trying to get into hard to reach places its tough to beat!

There are more layers in a complete deadening strategy but you can read on it elsewhere on the interwebs if your interested.
 
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Chzhead

Chzhead

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Your on the right track. There are multiple strategies used to quiet a vehicle depending on what result you want to achieve and there are different products for each strategy.

Dampening is the first step, and usually shows the biggest gains. It's what we are talking about specifically in this thread. There are 3 basic categories of damping materials:
1: Asphalt base (to be avoided at all costs, its the cheapest by far, but leaves a lingering unpleasant aroma and tends to fall apart in the extremes of the automotive environment, if you are looking at some cheap stuff on ebay or amazon and it doesnt specify its made of butyl is probably asphalt, walk away.)
2: Butyl base (which is what we are talking about here, its the easiest to apply, midrange cost and generally requires >25% coverage of sheet metal to get the best results, it really only works on sheet metals), there is also butyl rope which is really handy for jamming between stuff to stop rattles and jamming in holes to stop wind noise. You will often see 100% coverage on this, the only reason to do this is if your trying to stop the substrate from rusting or getting water exposure, it does a great job at stopping water, but you are paying a weight penalty.
3: Viscoelastic liquid dampners (second skin spectrum) this stuff is like a really thick paint you roll or spray on to whatever you are trying to deaden. Its very good for hard to reach places. It ends up being a little expensive per coverage area, and slow to apply as you often need a couple of coats, but if your trying to get into hard to reach places its tough to beat!

There are more layers in a complete deadening strategy but you can read on it elsewhere on the interwebs if your interested.


Great info!! The only liquid stuff I know of is Lizard Skin, which has to be sprayed on. I have not seen any roll on type deadeners. My main purpose is to try to keep out the road/tire noise as much as I can. I know (from when I did my '02) the back wall was a huge help just on it's own. I don't necessarily need to get 100% coverage in every nook and cranny......although I wish Ford would put more effort into the pillars (IMO). I was going to go back to DynaMat but saw the sticky on Stinger, wasn't sure if there were any differences/pros/cons.
 
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