I live in the northeast and if you’ve ever lived in this area you know how much the salt damages the undercarriages of vehicles. My last truck was a TRX and the first winter I had it the surface rust was pretty bad. I’m looking to get the Raptor rust proofing but I’m not sure what the best option is. Has anyone used Rust Check or Krown or Fluid Film? I’m willing to fork over some catch each year to maintain some resale value on this truck and want to make sure I’m getting the right product.
Best Rust-proofing options?
- Thread starter relak
- Start date
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Gen1TillDeath
Full Access Member
Fluid film has my vote. Cheap, goes along away if you use the pneumatic applicator gun, a gallon lasts me 2 seasons. Easy to wash off in the spring and reapply in fall. Oh and it works lol.
Do you have to wash it off in the spring or can you leave it on and reapply over the old application each winter? Looking for something that doesn’t take a whole lot of maintenance too
Gen1TillDeath
Full Access Member
No you do not have to wash it off. I just don’t want to have a million layers with dirt/sand/mud in between the fluid film. as I off-road aswell. But I can literally spray the ENTIRE underside down in 35min. IMO , it’s totally worth the effort. Waxoyl is VERY similar I believe. Most that do use lanolin, use fluid film or waxoyl. Might want to research the pro’s/cons of the 2
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JohnyPython
FRF Addict
FF or Woolwax. Blaster seems to last longer.
I use MPHD on the frame of the truck. So wash the entire underneath of the truck down as best you can, then start spraying down all steel parts. I also found that you can use a foam brush to get to the hard to reach areas, or areas you are afraid you didn't get to the first time. Given that the body of the truck is aluminum, I lightly sprayed some areas of the bed, but didn't bother much with the body of the truck, I just made sure that all exposed steel areas are covered.
I then use Bioshield T9 on the shocks and front springs given that the MPHD is a yellow haze when it dries.
I also noticed some exposed steel on the front a-arms. So I bought some krylon paint from Home Depot, matte gray, and painted over those areas to keep that from being exposed.
Prior to the MPHD, I also washed and waxed the rear fenderwells, then installed the husky wheel liners.
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Overall, the MPHD will last about 1.5 seasons. So you'll do touchup work next fall (most likely with the brush to avoid having to cover and tape off the entire truck again), and touch up the frame or pans or other areas. T9 is an EVERY year application.
I did this for my Gen 1 truck and she looked really good for 8 years old. Did rust start to appear at welds? Yes, but had I kept the truck, that was a quick sand/paint/recoat. I didn't have a speck of rust on the physical truck body.
I did notice that this Gen 3 does not have those big frame holes underneath on the body under the doors like the Gen 1. For those I used PPF to cover those holes and keep the rust out. So that was one less thing I needed to do.
I then use Bioshield T9 on the shocks and front springs given that the MPHD is a yellow haze when it dries.
I also noticed some exposed steel on the front a-arms. So I bought some krylon paint from Home Depot, matte gray, and painted over those areas to keep that from being exposed.
Prior to the MPHD, I also washed and waxed the rear fenderwells, then installed the husky wheel liners.
---
Overall, the MPHD will last about 1.5 seasons. So you'll do touchup work next fall (most likely with the brush to avoid having to cover and tape off the entire truck again), and touch up the frame or pans or other areas. T9 is an EVERY year application.
I did this for my Gen 1 truck and she looked really good for 8 years old. Did rust start to appear at welds? Yes, but had I kept the truck, that was a quick sand/paint/recoat. I didn't have a speck of rust on the physical truck body.
I did notice that this Gen 3 does not have those big frame holes underneath on the body under the doors like the Gen 1. For those I used PPF to cover those holes and keep the rust out. So that was one less thing I needed to do.
To add onto this, a local Line-X does Krown, and I was originally scheduled for it, but later cancelled the appointment after hearing people's cars not being put back together correctly, and that you aren't allowed to use high pressure spray on it all winter, and it has to be done yearly.
So....you're telling me you have to pull my new truck apart....cover it in oil yearly (overspray)....and I can't rinse it at the car wash? No thanks
So....you're telling me you have to pull my new truck apart....cover it in oil yearly (overspray)....and I can't rinse it at the car wash? No thanks
thatJeepguy
FRF Addict
That mopar stuff rusts like an MF’er . Idk why
. What about CRC? Project Farm did a shoot out and that was on top.
Id do CRC or MavCoat Steel Sheild on any underbody frame, body areas (make sure its clean first) and only stuff that runs an stays soft inside frames (ie fluid film, corrision x, etc) , rockers etc..... less mess and effective. I have a really clean underbody after 5 years, 75k miles and Michigan winters. Any areas ie a couple welds that have some rust I just hit with CorrosionX Extended Duty to kill it off. Then off I go. I pressure wash it during the winter as much as possible. The CRC and MavCoat is esentially Cosmoline based as is AMSOil HD. CRC is a good price point but does have the amber look. MavCoat does not but its a bit more pricey. Touch up during the season, they all displace water.
