Best replacement for OEM speakers...

[EricEst1978]

Sincerely appreciate all of the responses... I clearly don't know, what I don't know, which seems like a @#$%! ton at this point. If at all possible, I was hoping to keep the cost in the $1,000-1,500 (max) range.

Don't know if that means I'm generally SOL, or there are options that would be measurably better at that price point. I don't have the 'know-how' to do the install by myself. That's not to say I wouldn't be willing to try, I just don't want to mess something up and be hosed.

If there are options at my price point that would be feasible, taking into consideration the cost of sound deadening, I'd be happy to take your advice and run with it. If the budget is prohibitive at this point, I'll just have to hold off until I can afford a decent result I suppose. Again, thanks all for taking time to educate me on this... sincerely appreciate it.

Cheers.

 

[Shane361]

That's not an unrealistic goal. You will save money on installing it yourself. Like I said, grab that 5 channel amp, spend 300-400 on mids/highs and throw in a 10" sub for your lows and that will outperform the stock system with ease. That amp I posted should be good on stock electrical so you don't have to worry about extra batteries or upgraded alternator. I believe stock electrical can handle around 1800 watts before the need of alts and batteries. It'll mount easy on the back wall but you should also get something like an Audio Control LC7i which is less than 200 I believe. Do 6.5 components w/adaptor plate in the front, disconnect the center and coaxials in the rear. Tons of videos on sound proofing, blockoff plates etc etc. That can get pricey as well but you can do it here and there door by door etc etc. For mids that you would be putting power to I wouldn't go less than C3's if you go JL but they are pricey so check out Morel and Hertz.

 

[Shane361]

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[goblues38]

That's not an unrealistic goal. You will save money on installing it yourself.

problem is, he knows nothing about installing car audio gear....so his entry price just jumped $1,000

in todays money...you can build a nice system and replace it all, installing yourself for $2,500ish.....$3,500 if you have to pay a shop.

If you are not willing to spend $2,500-$3,500 you are just burning money because you won't make it any better. That is just my humble 33 years of car and home audio experience.

 

[HighwaySentinel]

How are you all not having to use a zen to convert the signal? Thought that or something similar was a must have and puts you in the hole immediately for $750 just to have the ability to use an aftermarket amp.

 

[The Car Stereo Company]

How are you all not having to use a zen to convert the signal? Thought that or something similar was a must have and puts you in the hole immediately for $750 just to have the ability to use an aftermarket amp.

in 2017 the raptor still had the sony system. it was 2018 that they changed to the body odor system where the zen module is needed.

op just needs to get a cheap set of alpine components up front and even cheaper coax in the rear. will provide a bit better clarity, however no volume gains, and still going to be affected by the modified fletcher munsen curve built into the oem system.

 

[sweatnblood]

Can you keep the stock head unit on the BO system and still upgrade the rest or do I need to look at something like the Halo-9? Also I've seen talk of the block off plates…do you need the plates or can you just matt the whole door and cover that hole.

 

[Shane361]

Can you keep the stock head unit on the BO system and still upgrade the rest or do I need to look at something like the Halo-9? Also I've seen talk of the block off plates…do you need the plates or can you just matt the whole door and cover that hole.

I used the Zen module from SGS on my 20 B&O and kept the stock head unit. It's pricey but this is on of the best and easiest methods. Always talk of new items coming out so not sure if there is another method but SGS has good videos of installs with this on Youtube and the reason they use this.

Factory B&O Including Unleashed Factory Stereo Interface for Complete Upgrades - Nav-TV ZEN-A2B

The Nav-TV ZEN-AUDIO DSP6A-A2B processor seamlessly converts 2018+ Ford factory A²B® (Automotive Audio Bus) to 6-channel analog RCA and TOSLink output. Adding aftermarket amplifiers to the OE B&O or Revel amplified SYNC3 system has never been so simple. This module integrates directly with the...

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Block off plates are what turn the door into an enclosure so they are rather beneficial. I did 80% coverage on the far inside of the door, block off plates and then soundskinz on the outside. I had completed one side one weekend and one side the next and during the week I kept hearing noise coming from the passenger side. It was the difference between having it and not having it. That 100% sold me and when I did the passenger side the noise balanced out again and was better all around. I'm not sure on the percentage of beneficial a plate would be over just covering the hole but I have no doubt it is better.

 

[Shane361]

problem is, he knows nothing about installing car audio gear....so his entry price just jumped $1,000

in todays money...you can build a nice system and replace it all, installing yourself for $2,500ish.....$3,500 if you have to pay a shop.

If you are not willing to spend $2,500-$3,500 you are just burning money because you won't make it any better. That is just my humble 33 years of car and home audio experience.

I agree. I spent countless amounts of money having someone else do my installs....until I didn't. I spent 12 hours with a friend who did know and we installed an entire system which took about 12 hours and I had to drive 1.5 hours to his house and 1.5 home. Then when I redid my system I took it all out and put it all back in. About to do the same again now that the weather is a little better. Each time my build gets better. Yes he will pay if he has it done...that we absolutely eat the shit out of his 1000-1500 budget.

 

[pat247]

@EricEst1978 Check out this thread https://www.fordraptorforum.com/threads/kicker-sub-upgrade-how-to.45438/page-18#post-969702