Any tips on removing the sill plates on 2020 Screw?

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Oldfart

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I need to run speaker wires and a home run power feed for a sub. Any tips on removing the sill plates so I can open things up? Any videos? I did multiple YouTube searches and found nothing. I did do a search here and didn't come up with anything. I'm assuming they just clip in? The last sill plates I took off just had Phillips head screws. (It's been a while!) Thanks.
 
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DarthKickA55

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Went down a youtube rabbit hole yesterday and saw this series from near me - might help?
 

lateralis

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The door sills (parts that meet up with the carpet) are just clips. Pull the center ones 1st as you can just yank them out. As for the larger ones like for the B pillar and kick panels you're going to want to pull back the weather strip before you pull those and it will be required to get the rest of them out. After you pull them out pop the weather strip back in so you don't dice yourself up on the pinch welds. The plastic panel at the rear seats (i guess that's the C pillar?) has this weird plastic like tether cord at the top that is annoying. You honestly don't need to pop that panel all the way off. Just pop the bottom and you're good to go.

How are you planning on running new speaker wires to the door and do you really need to? I got some pics in my stereo thread on how I did the fronts but I did that because I had to.
 

smurfslayer

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he may be running wire for tweets from a component set. I did the same, crossovers in the rear by the amp, new wires from the x-over to the tweets in the pillars via the same path.

if you don’t already have a body panel removal kit, get one. Lots of plastic pieces that are less likely to mar paint and trim, very inexpensive, and very useful.
 

dreys

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Ford doesn't use any fancy screws or bolts. It's all clips.

Pull Ford Performance sills first, all others come out easily as well.
 
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Oldfart

Oldfart

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The door sills (parts that meet up with the carpet) are just clips. Pull the center ones 1st as you can just yank them out. As for the larger ones like for the B pillar and kick panels you're going to want to pull back the weather strip before you pull those and it will be required to get the rest of them out. After you pull them out pop the weather strip back in so you don't dice yourself up on the pinch welds. The plastic panel at the rear seats (i guess that's the C pillar?) has this weird plastic like tether cord at the top that is annoying. You honestly don't need to pop that panel all the way off. Just pop the bottom and you're good to go.

How are you planning on running new speaker wires to the door and do you really need to? I got some pics in my stereo thread on how I did the fronts but I did that because I had to.
he may be running wire for tweets from a component set. I did the same, crossovers in the rear by the amp, new wires from the x-over to the tweets in the pillars via the same path.

if you don’t already have a body panel removal kit, get one. Lots of plastic pieces that are less likely to mar paint and trim, very inexpensive, and very useful.

Yes, I'm running wire to new Morel tweeters from a crossover. I do have the plastic trim removal tools. They're just from HF, but they seem to work fine, had them several years now. Thanks for the help. I hate to start just yanking at sh*it, if I don't know how it comes apart. I'm also doing the door panel fillers and Second Skin and a Skar sub while I'm at it.

If I didn't come in this damn forum so much I would have just left everything alone!! The riv-nut tool is interesting for the door panels, never used one before.
 

smurfslayer

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I hate to start just yanking at sh*it, if I don't know how it comes apart. I'm also doing the door panel fillers and Second Skin and a Skar sub while I'm at it.

Respect. Actually trying to not break $hit and all.

If I didn't come in this damn forum so much I would have just left everything alone!!

WTF, it’s 38 minutes on and you don’t have finished pics posted yet?
 

lateralis

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Yes, I'm running wire to new Morel tweeters from a crossover. I do have the plastic trim removal tools. They're just from HF, but they seem to work fine, had them several years now. Thanks for the help. I hate to start just yanking at sh*it, if I don't know how it comes apart. I'm also doing the door panel fillers and Second Skin and a Skar sub while I'm at it.

If I didn't come in this damn forum so much I would have just left everything alone!! The riv-nut tool is interesting for the door panels, never used one before.

If you are using the stock tweeter location for your Morel's than I would do it like @smurfslayer said. Put the crossover in the back seat bench area by the amp. Run the mid speaker like to the stock wiring harness and than just a brand new line for the tweeter all the way up. This way you don't need to run new wire into the door. The door plugs aren't what they used to be.... I'm assuming you are using a NAVTV Zen A2B?
 
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