and it just died on the highway... thinking fuel pump, or that notorious fuel pump driver module

[ratty]

of course the only other car in my house, the wife's car... is in the shop too... of course. Anyway, I hear on F-150's the fuel pump driver module, located right above the spare under the pickup bed, are known problems. But the one's I've seen are the half metal ones that corrode really badly. The one my 2010 Raptor has is an all plastic sealed module, but I hear they're also known to fail. Symptoms were, when I first started the truck up, for the first time that day, the idle was wavering... thought it odd but I kept going. Ran fine on the road, until I was in the worst spot on an elevated highway in the downtown area hauling ass and it just died on me. When attempting to restart, it would fire up for a second and then die immediately. Does that every time I try to restart it. Fires up for a second and then dies on the next second. So I'm thinking possibly fuel pump or related, and then I heard about these modules. Anyway, got the module pulled... waiting for a cab to take me to the shop where the wife's car is that should be done soon, so I can have wheels to pick up another module at the parts store. Oh and the #27 fuse is fine... and the truck has a 189,000 miles and hasn't missed a beat yet... until now. Only scanner codes I get are a bad o2 sensor that I've had since I've had the truck pretty much (around 2 years). Thoughts? Oh and how noticeable is the fuel pump noise? Should I be able to hear it (I'm used to an electric pump on my race car and it's loud, but it's not an in-tank pump... probably quiet on this I'd guess).

 

[Jeff550]

If you havent relocated the fuse 27. Now is the time to do so

 

[CoronaRaptor]

Just because the fuse looks fine , doesn't mean it isnt burnt underneath, a lot of times the fuse doesn't blow but the connector inside the fuse box gets burnt, limiting the connection. Might not be it, but whatever you end up doing to fix the truck, get that fuse kit as well.

 

[FordTechOne]

Just because the fuse looks fine , doesn't mean it isnt burnt underneath, a lot of times the fuse doesn't blow but the connector inside the fuse box gets burnt, limiting the connection. Might not be it, but whatever you end up doing to fix the truck, get that fuse kit as well.

Exactly this. The fuse doesn’t open/blow, it loses contact within the terminals due to overheating. I would start by doing the F27 relocation before going any further.

 

[MDJAK]

I got no dog in this conversation but have read here mention many times about this. Can someone explain what the issue is and what is meant by relocating it, and, if it’s such a common issue, why Ford never issued a TSB, if indeed they didn’t, or a recall? Ty.

 

[ratty]

Just found this old thread of mine from over a year ago and realized i never updated what it turned out to be, which wasn't a fuse 27 issue... it was a faulty MAF sensor (%#^@%# sensors)

Could've just unplugged it and drove it home instead of getting towed.

I still haven't done the fuse relocation (or rather, the 'replace the tiny Suzie Homemaker fuse setup for a half decent sized fuse' fix)... though I've always had the parts. Watch it fail now that I posted this...