Amsoil Double Bypass System

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Deleted member 17706

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Hello,

I wanted to share a project I have been working on during the last couple of months. In short, I installed the Amsoil Double Bypass System to my truck. Such a system allows me to run an additional 1.5 quarts of oil on top of the standard 7 quarts of oil, and it filters the oil at the highest level possible while not inhibiting the oil's flowability. The benefits are numerous: extended oil intervals, lower engine temps, less wear on engine components, and so on.

Bypass systems are very common on Diesel trucks because it helps minimize the soot particles. Even though gas engines do not have soot, they still carry a lot of very fine particles that over time causes wear to your engine components. A standard engine oil full-flow filter cannot get all of those fine particles out of the oil because if it did, then it would inhibit the oil's flowability of making its way back to the engine. Amsoil has a good video that demonstrates what I am talking about: https://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-prod...rsal-dual-remote-bypass-system/?code=BMK23-EA

To begin this process, I had to find a good place to mount the bypass system to the frame. Most diesel trucks mount the bypass systems on either the driver or passenger frame rails depending on what side the oil filter is on—the engine oil filters on diesel trucks are towards the back of the engine normally, so they are not up front like ours. Also, given that I want to keep the off-road capability of my truck, I wanted to make sure it would be in a place that is protected. In light of this, mounting it to the side rail was a no go because the hose lines would be extremely long—the shorter the lines the better—given that the oil filter is at the front of the engine, and the fact that the unit would be exposed when off-roading. My search for the correct mounting place led me to the lower cross member that runs just below the engine. There is a ton of room in-between the belt housing of the engine, the crossmember that runs just underneath the radiator and radiator fan shroud, and the lower crossmember. Moreover, the lower crossmember already has precut holes for one to utilize, so I did not have to worry about cutting into the frame.

Once I knew where to mount the system, I had to get a bracket that would house the bypass system. Amsoil does not sell brackets specific for your vehicle. They only sell you a system that has a bracket, but such a bracket would not suffice for my application. Doing some research, I came across Don Smith, who is an Amsoil dealer and has been installing these systems for 15 plus years. He makes custom brackets that are vehicle specific (i.e., they accommodate the precut holes in your frame to house the bypass system). I took a bunch of measurements and sent them to Don, so that he could design a bracket that would secure the bypass system and clear all the components around it. We did a prototype made out of 3/16" steel for the first go around to prove our concept. Once we made a few tweaks to the prototype, we made the final version out of 5/16" steel. In short, the steel bracket is extremely robust and will easily hold the bypass system to the frame securely. The way we secured the bracket to the frame is by running two speed nuts through two of the precut holes in the lower crossmember and ran a bolt for each speed nut with loctite to insure its stability.

Now that I had the system securely mounted, I could move to installing the rest of it. The biggest thing I will say is to TAKE YOUR TIME! On everything you need to tighten, you have a gasket on either a nut or a hydraulic fitting. If you over tighten it, you will rupture the gasket, and oil will leak from the system. If you under tighten it, oil will leak from the system. So you must use good judgement and follow the directions. Also, you have to keep all the components extremely clean (especially the return lines). If you don't, then you will be sending particles straight to your engine bearings, which would defeat the purpose of you using this system: to further protect your engine. I blasted off each component with air from my air compressor to insure no particles were inside my hoses, fittings, and so on. The hardest part of the install is getting your hoses cut to length. With the system being mounted so closely to the original oil filter location, you do not have a lot of room to run the hoses. Amsoil gives you plenty of hose line, so do not worry about running out of hose. Given that I had no precedent to go off of for the hoses, I tried a couple different set ups until I was content with my final set up in the pictures below. Keep in mind, you cannot have sharp bends in the hose lines or else you will affect its flowability.

Another benefit of doing such a system is that you can add a brass sample valve (Amsoil does not include it in the kit, but Don sells them with the bracket) to sample your oil and send it to Oil Analyzers. It makes getting an oil sample a lot easier and less messy.

Don Smith has a bunch of different videos on his YouTube page noting how to do an install properly—Amsoil gives you good directions as well. In light of how thorough Don is in his videos, it is easier for anybody that is interested in the system to simply watch one of his videos rather than me write out each step. Feel free to contact me if you have any questions.

Don Smith's website: http://www.donsoil.com. His phone number is on his webpage. He is great to talk with.

Don Smith's YouTube:

The system you see in the pictures includes the following:

1) Amsoil Universal Double Bypass System: https://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-prod...rsal-dual-remote-bypass-system/?code=BMK23-EA

2) Amsoil Filter Mount Replacement BK299: https://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-product/filters-and-by-pass-systems/by-pass/replacement-parts/

3) Amsoil EaO26 Full Flow Filter: https://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-product/filters-and-by-pass-systems/oil/amsoil-ea-oil-filters/

4) Amsoil EaBP100 Bypass Filter: https://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-prod...pass/filters-and-mounts/ea-bypass-oil-filter/

5) Don Smith's Bracket (includes brass sample valve)

6) Two 6500-10-10 - 90 degree elbow, 5/8" JIC (7'8"-14 thread) Male x 5/8" JIC (7/8"-14 thread) female swivel hydraulic fittings. You need these to get the right angle to run the hose lines without sharp bends. The hydraulic fittings have a female and male fitting to attach to the filter head and hoses. Your local hydraulic store ought to have them. https://www.hydraulichoses.com/6500-SAE-070221-fittings-p/6500.htm

If you are in Amsoil's preferred customer program, then you can get 25% off any of their products.

Amsoil gives you a list of all the tools you need to do the install. Some of the items that I am listing are already on that list. I am not listing all the items you need—just the ones that make the job easier.

1) Blue-Point hose cutter. It gives you a nice clean cut on your hoses. https://store.snapon.com/Hose-Cutters-and-Removers-9-5-8-Multi-Cutter-Blue-Point--P641145.aspx

2) A workshop bench vise to tighten all your fittings on your hoses.

3) A good drill with a 5/16" hex bit to remove the nut to install the brass valve (Amsoil puts loctite on the nut, so it is tough to remove). See Don's install video above for more details.

4) Air compressor to keep all your pieces clean.

5) 1" crowfoot wrench. This allow you to get to the fittings in tight places.

6) 1 3/4" socket with a 3/4" drive ratchet. You use this to tighten the filter mount replacement BK299. I bought this set—it is very nice: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-3...d-SAE-Socket-Set-14-Piece-H34D14SWS/204761491

A couple of disclaimers:

1) I am not sponsored by Amsoil nor Don Smith. I paid for everything you see. I am simply posting this to give Raptor owners the opportunity to further protect their vehicles.

2) Do not criticize this page by saying stupid things like this is a waste of money. I take care of my vehicles and it shows how they last and perform. TMX told me, "this is the best maintained Raptor they have seen. They wish their other customers would take care of their Raptor half as well as I take care of mine."

3) There may be some naysayers that have concerns that the bypass system is vulnerable for off-road use. Such a concern is not warranted. The system easily clears the engine belt housing, radiator, transmission cooler lines, and anything else around it. Moreover, I have a Rogue suspension on my truck. The Rogue sway bar runs behind the front bumper skid plate. If that was not a good place to run a sway bar, then Rogue would not have put it there—not to mention Robby Woods made sure to do the same thing with his sway bar on his Battleborn Engineering suspension. The sway bar clears the bypass system by being several inches in front of it. Not to mention, the bypass system is tucked nicely above the lower crossmember. If I did something to screw up the bypass system, I would have bigger concerns than just leaking oil because my whole frame would be toast! The system is tucked away and protected very well. I can get to the belt housing in less than 30 seconds by just loosening the two bolts in the lower crossmember—it is that simple!

Enjoy!

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Jonny V

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That’s pretty slick. I’ve wondered about going with a larger filter on my truck. Also I don’t really like the horizontal mount as it just dumps oil when I do a change. I might look into this.
 
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D

Deleted member 17706

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That’s pretty slick. I’ve wondered about going with a larger filter on my truck. Also I don’t really like the horizontal mount as it just dumps oil when I do a change. I might look into this.

It definitely makes changing your filters easy and makes no mess!
 
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