Alternative High-Beam Connection ?

[K223]

Ok guys, after chatting with them, I ordered one CAN Highbeam relay and the contactless CAN reader.
If it won't work with my 2018 they will help me to get the right code with their - RUI (Research & Update Interface) support system for our CANNECT https://www.canm8.com/cannect-rui-system-page.html Wil keep you updated on the progress.....

Definitely keep us posted on this. If this non evasive approach works, then it’s a great solution. Did the company provide a module that wasn’t listed, but will work on an F-150? What lights are you looking to run when high beams are in btw? I’d like to have my S8 in tandem with the high beams.

 

[Kmandoske]

I have no done any IDS testing on the system just good old fashion trial and error, at this point I have not seen any errors with 6-7 years of use and over 70 units sold. I appreciate the comments and suggestions, I am always looking to improve my product and take and use constructive criticism and work with it. In my opinion, not everyone can solder on a work bench let alone in the cramped confines of the passenger foot well, there is absolutely zero slack on the wires to get them to a position that is easy to work in. If you screw up and cut the wire it's very difficult to splice it back together. I solder when I can and I revert to the less dependable use of T-taps where I can't, I would never use a t-tap outside of the vehicle in a severe moisture area. I agree that using t-taps in some instances may damage the wire but i generally think that a normal vehicle owner is a person doing this work in there driveway and they have a much better chance of success with simple t-taps that trying to strip a wire and solder under their dash. As for the relay and shifting to a solid state unit. The mini relays I use are about $ 5.00 each and with that and the cost of the other part places my product at between $ 325 -$375. The 20/30A solid state relay is $ 56.00 each which would easliy double the cost of the product and may not be worth the investment to some.

 

[2020Raptor]

Yeah ... sorry but if one uses the contact less CAN reader it says:

The Contact-less Reader option allows the CAN Bus interface to read vehicle CAN Bus data without any actual metal to metal connection between the interface and the vehicle CAN Bus. The reader is secured around a section of the vehicle CAN Bus wiring and data is read by an induction method, thus protecting any manufacturers warranty.

https://www.canm8.com/cannect-contactless-reader/canm8-cannect-contactless-reader-12-30v.html

Forgive my ignorance, but i thought this could be safe.
Assuming the High beam CAN relay recognizes the F150 - which is not sure yet.

Gotchya...I see it now.
This does seem like a good solution.
$63 is fair enough if it gets the job done.
Please keep us posted.

 

[Stitch1618]

Hey all, definitely will keep you updated an will document the install.
The cool thing is, that they will make it work either way with their remote
RUI kit - pretty cool - once we have the codes - easy peasy
https://www.canm8.com/cannect-rui-system-page.html

In Europe the addon lights have to conform to all kind of laws .. So i will install an LazerLamps https://www.lazerlamps.com/lights/linear.html
which conforms to the rules and regulations - you guys are so lucky in the US !
More to follow soon

 

[Stitch1618]

At it .. Wiring up the Analysis devices to get the right CAN codes.. More to come
View media item 15716View media item 15717
Fingers crossed

 

[Stitch1618]

SUCCESS !! It works ! 2018 Raptor

Using the CANM8 Contactless CAN Reader - the 2 wires going to the OBD terminal - remove the OBD Terminal for easy mounting of the reader 2x M10
Grey / Orange wire = CAN HI
Purple / Orange wire =CAN LOW
Pass these through the according slot of the contactless reader (you leave the wires totally untouched)
One has to remove a little of the textile tape that binds together the wires going to the OBD plug.
Fix the Contactless reader when both wires pass through it with a tie rap, so it cant move around to much.

Hook up the CANM8 High beam CAN interface according to the installation instructions -- very simple

Now the Reader will read the CANBus data and the CANM8-Highbeam will analyse the data.
As soon you turn on your high beam of the car - that data is now recognized and the CANM8-Highbeam interface
will power the purple wire with 13.7 volts - you can drive a Relay for additional Lightbars/lamps etc.

ALL Contactless - you do not touch any wire or make any taps.

We analysed the Data structure of my Raptor - so this will now work fine for many Raptors / F150
More info on which years from CANM8 will follow.

See the overview here :
View media item 15722

 

[Deleted member 12951]

the t tap, scotch lock connectors work great in bind, but yes, not the ideal connection. when getting sensitive wires at the bcm, i always do a wire to wire connection. meaning i strip back the insulation and tie the new wire into it with solder. sensitive wires can trigger codes dues to a connection such as a butt connector, t tap, scotchlock. the resistance in the connector can cause issues. over the years, when calling tech support for various components, the first thing they ask, is how is the connection made? i have had a few past experiences where a butt connector caused too much resistance and the component wouldnt work, but solder did, so a wire to wire connection will work best in this application.

As you know, I have the LVJ system and my truck went into limp mode when off-roading. Connected my laptop with FORScan and it was full of codes, including one stating BCM data corruption. I disconnected the tap into the BCM for the high beam control. Cleared the codes and continued off-road the rest of the day with no issues.

I had someone else do the install. They didn’t use the LVJ t-tap connection that was included in the kit, they used a Posi-tap wire splice. Not sure if that was the issue? I since used a fuse tap with using a button on the my dash instead of messing with the high beam, just not worth it. When off-roading the high beam functionality didn’t work that great for me anyways. Turning on and off all my front lights with a flip of the button is just as convenient in my opinion and stays out of the computer system, as going into limp mode when off-roading sucked, it could of been a lot worse.

 

[K223]

SUCCESS !! It works ! 2018 Raptor

Using the CANM8 Contactless CAN Reader - the 2 wires going to the OBD terminal - remove the OBD Terminal for easy mounting of the reader 2x M10
Grey / Orange wire = CAN HI
Purple / Orange wire =CAN LOW
Pass these through the according slot of the contactless reader (you leave the wires totally untouched)
One has to remove a little of the textile tape that binds together the wires going to the OBD plug.
Fix the Contactless reader when both wires pass through it with a tie rap, so it cant move around to much.

Hook up the CANM8 High beam CAN interface according to the installation instructions -- very simple

Now the Reader will read the CANBus data and the CANM8-Highbeam will analyse the data.
As soon you turn on your high beam of the car - that data is now recognized and the CANM8-Highbeam interface
will power the purple wire with 13.7 volts - you can drive a Relay for additional Lightbars/lamps etc.

ALL Contactless - you do not touch any wire or make any taps.

We analysed the Data structure of my Raptor - so this will now work fine for many Raptors / F150
More info on which years from CANM8 will follow.

See the overview here :
View media item 15722

looks like a nice option. Probably sounds like more details then it really is. I’d like to have my light bar working off the high beams for more simplicity. May have to disable auto high beam if I do. I don’t want all that light flashing on and off in heavy population or on certain roads.

Probably still a good idea to employ a solid state relay?

 

[toledoUPSguy]

Okay, Hella makes a solid state relay.

http://hellahd.com/index.php/default/electrics/relays/mini-iso-relays/12v-spst/h41773001-931773987/

I can't find info on milliamps required to activate it though. If its low enough, could you use one of these, triggered by the high beam to then activate other relays? That way if you want to trigger 3 or 4 relays their milliamps wouldn't compound and overload the high beam BCM circuit.

Of all the possible ways to use a factory circuit to activate an aftermarket component, a solid state relay would be the safest.

Of all the possible ways to use a factory circuit to activate an aftermarket component, a solid state relay would be the safest.

so if I want to trigger my dual 10" BD s8 bars with a 8.12amp total draw with the high beams would this relay just take the place of the one supplied with the harness or would this relay activate the other relay?

 

[toledoUPSguy]

Have Diode Dynamics SS3 max driving pods and used the blue switch wire of the relay harness tapped into the high beam wire of the Starkey Products headlight adapter harness. Seems to work perfectly, ran Forscan and showed no DTCs. To be safe should I replace the standard relay with the Hella solid state relay?