Aftermarket amp and subs causing drivetrain issues???

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Jeremy Hunter

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I picked my 2014 raptor up from the audio store, drove maybe half mile and heard a loud POP underneath the truck. Kept driving thinking I just hit a bump, did it again. Pulled up to a stop sign and zero power to the wheels.The dreaded “wrench symbol” appeared and Truck acted like it was stuck in park/neutral... I turned the key off and on and finally got it to shift into 1st.. but after going roughly ten feet, heard real nasty loud grinding and whining and back to the neutral state on its on.

Managed to push off to the side, call a tow to the house... talked to the service manager at the ford dealership and he suggested replacing the U-joints...got them installed... same issues... grinding loud popping and then no power to wheels on a 10 second test drive.

Read something about the BCM creating issues similar? Could this be a simple module or electrical issue caused by improper stereo install?? Has anyone had something similar??
 

allinon72

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If I had to guess, it’s not related to the stereo installation. But that is a **** poor diagnoses by the dealer - bad u-joints are not going to put the truck in limp mode, they obviously did not listen to your explanation of the problem. I would take it back to them, be a little more forceful, and tell them to actually troubleshoot and diagnose the problem instead of throwing parts at it.
 
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Jeremy Hunter

Jeremy Hunter

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They installed an LC2i amp and subs, directly wired into the factory sub/amp wiring. Ever seen this before when cutting into the factory speaker wires?
 
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Jeremy Hunter

Jeremy Hunter

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how did they mount the equipment? if they screwed it to the floor, they might have gone through a wire harness under the cab

lc2i, right behind the passenger side rear seat on floor... and the amp on wall directly above that.

That’s very Interesting... I’ll check that out tomorrow...
 

Leadweight

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So I was reading your post and wondered. I got these codes to do some Forscan mods on my 2020. I noticed that there are a couple of codes relating to adding a sub and amp.
You might want to look into this on your 14. But how that simple code change or lack of, would cause nuetral, cel, and limp mode and grinding. I don’t know. There are a shit ton of tech in these trucks. A screw through a loom seems just as likely to have caused this, as does a lack of a couple of code changes.

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