A/c actuators

[Oldfart]

Well would not be that one then...darn it.
Thought that one might be easier.

This doesn't sound like a lot of fun!

 

[FordTechOne]

So this are the codes I get

Hi , this where the codes I got , and the video is a noid test of the harness that goes to the distribution air actuator ( the one by Gas pedal ) , you can see the only ones that really get power are the ones that are working at this point defrost and feet , the one that are for the front a/c vent is almost no power ( not enough to move actuator ) , and on the scanner when I press the recirculation button it doesn’t recognize it , it never changes to on ( the light turns on and off on the a/c head ) what I am thinking that no power is getting to the actuator . ( didn’t do the noid test on the recirculation actuator because I couldn’t reach the harness and at the same time press the recirculation . the person that was helping me needed to leave . But l can assume from what the scanner show that there is no power to that actuator . Now I need to understand what does that mean bad a/c head , module or broken wire . What do you think

Did you clear DTCs and re-test? If not, do that and see what DTCs return. Some of those DTCs may have set prior to you replacing the door actuators. Certain DTCs will cause the HVAC module to disable the actuator.

The actuators are not supposed to have power at all times. There are 5 circuits going to each actuator; 3 are for door position (VREF, Feedback, Return) and 2 are for the motor. VREF is 5 Volts, the motors run on 12V.

 

[tonyraptor]

Did you clear DTCs and re-test? If not, do that and see what DTCs return. Some of those DTCs may have set prior to you replacing the door actuators. Certain DTCs will cause the HVAC module to disable the actuator.

The actuators are not supposed to have power at all times. There are 5 circuits going to each actuator; 3 are for door position (VREF, Feedback, Return) and 2 are for the motor. VREF is 5 Volts, the motors run on 12V.

Yes I did clear sorry didn’t notice that the forum only allows for 5 pics this are the , ones that came back after reset. When I had the scanner on and checked for power on the recirculation switch when I pressed it , it never show like it was pressed on , I don’t know if I am explaining correctly , the scanner will not recognized that it was pressed .

Now for the one for the air distribution (by the gas pedal ) when I did the noid test was to the outside cables that are power +&- and you can see that the only ones that get full power (12 volts ) when pressed ( not continuous only for couple of seconds) is the defrost and floor , the one that has to blow on the center vents will only light up just a little , that I don’t think is enough power to move the actuator . Remember as soon as I put the actuator it goes directly to defrost mode . And won’t move from there .

 

[FordTechOne]

Yes I did clear sorry didn’t notice that the forum only allows for 5 pics this are the , ones that came back after reset. When I had the scanner on and checked for power on the recirculation switch when I pressed it , it never show like it was pressed on , I don’t know if I am explaining correctly , the scanner will not recognized that it was pressed .

Now for the one for the air distribution (by the gas pedal ) when I did the noid test was to the outside cables that are power +&- and you can see that the only ones that get full power (12 volts ) when pressed ( not continuous only for couple of seconds) is the defrost and floor , the one that has to blow on the center vents will only light up just a little , that I don’t think is enough power to move the actuator . Remember as soon as I put the actuator it goes directly to defrost mode . And won’t move from there .

Some aftermarket scan tools aren’t capable of reading all module functions, so try not to put too much focus on the button PIDs unless you can confirm with another vehicle that those PIDs should function.

DTC description are as follows:

B1082:00 — Right Temperature Damper Motor: No Sub Type Information

The module senses no changes in the feedback circuit when motor movement is commanded and no motor electrical DTCs are present, indicating an open circuit or mechanical failure

B11E7:15 — Air Distribution Damper Position Sensor: Circuit Short to Battery or Open

The module senses no voltage drop on the actuator feedback circuit, indicating an open circuit or a short directly to voltage

So the HVAC module is indicating that it’s not receiving feedback from the passenger blend door, and the feedback circuit for the mode door (defrost/panel/floor) is at 5V indicating an open.

 

[tonyraptor]

Some aftermarket scan tools aren’t capable of reading all module functions, so try not to put too much focus on the button PIDs unless you can confirm with another vehicle that those PIDs should function.

DTC description are as follows:

B1082:00 — Right Temperature Damper Motor: No Sub Type Information

The module senses no changes in the feedback circuit when motor movement is commanded and no motor electrical DTCs are present, indicating an open circuit or mechanical failure

B11E7:15 — Air Distribution Damper Position Sensor: Circuit Short to Battery or Open

The module senses no voltage drop on the actuator feedback circuit, indicating an open circuit or a short directly to voltage

So the HVAC module is indicating that it’s not receiving feedback from the passenger blend door, and the feedback circuit for the mode door (defrost/panel/floor) is at 5V indicating an open.

So from what you are saying it should be a broken wire ?

 

[CoronaRaptor]

So from what you are saying it should be a broken wire ?

"open circuit" is an item such as a broken wire or a bad connector, the actuator isn't getting the power from the controller. You will probably need an schematic drawing to be able to trace all circuits or get lucky and it be something obvious, maybe where somebody has worked on the vehicle before is usually the culprit. That's how I read his diagnosis, anyway.

 

[rschap1]

Feel as though I need to post an apology here...did not mean to hi-jack the thread.
I think I have been shown that I have a bigger job than I had hoped.
Tried all the easier fixes, now I think I am going to get my Bronco out so I can take enough time to disassemble most of my interior
Good luck with your fix, again, sorry to have jumped in and derailed.
I see that there is a ton of VERY in depth knowledge and help here.
Pretty far above my skill set.
BUT, I know where to turn when too deep.
THANKS very much for all the help and direction I got.
I will start my own thread if I think I have anything worth sharing to help others.
Thought I was going to ask about my left rear door ajar warning light yesterday, but...
quick search showed a common broken wire at the hinges.
Sure enough.
So I won't be muddying the place up now with that easy fix

BIG THANKS again !!!!

 

[CoronaRaptor]

So from what you are saying it should be a broken wire ?

Here is a wiring diagram you can most likley use to start tracing, keep us posted bro.

All Wiring Diagrams for Ford F-150 King Ranch 2013 – Wiring diagrams for cars

AIR CONDITIONING Automatic A/C Wiring Diagram (1 of 3) for Ford F-150 King Ranch 2013 Automatic A/C Wiring Diagram (2 of 3) for Ford F-150 King Ranch 2013 Automatic A/C Wiring Diagram (3 of 3) for Ford F-150 King Ranch 2013 Manual A/C Wiring Diagram, Base (1 of 3) for All Wiring Diagrams for...

portal-diagnostov.com

 

[tonyraptor]

Here is a wiring diagram you can most likley use to start tracing, keep us posted bro.

All Wiring Diagrams for Ford F-150 King Ranch 2013 – Wiring diagrams for cars

AIR CONDITIONING Automatic A/C Wiring Diagram (1 of 3) for Ford F-150 King Ranch 2013 Automatic A/C Wiring Diagram (2 of 3) for Ford F-150 King Ranch 2013 Automatic A/C Wiring Diagram (3 of 3) for Ford F-150 King Ranch 2013 Manual A/C Wiring Diagram, Base (1 of 3) for All Wiring Diagrams for...

portal-diagnostov.com

Thanks for that info .air distribution actuator (by Gas pedal) Here is where I am at right now I checked for continuity and resistance on all wires from the bottom connector to the top module the one by the dashboard speaker and everything is working to specs , I have a question what sends power tho the actuator when you press a setting like let’s say for the defrost, is it the module? . I am asking because I bought an actuator just for diagnostic purpose and when I connect it and press on defrost the actuator moves with enough power to move the vents but when I press to any setting for the center vents it will barely move . See video what do you guys understand from this ?
What I did was removed the actuator for now and just lefted manually blowing to the center vents , but I really will like to fix this .

 

[FordTechOne]

Thanks for that info .air distribution actuator (by Gas pedal) Here is where I am at right now I checked for continuity and resistance on all wires from the bottom connector to the top module the one by the dashboard speaker and everything is working to specs , I have a question what sends power tho the actuator when you press a setting like let’s say for the defrost, is it the module? . I am asking because I bought an actuator just for diagnostic purpose and when I connect it and press on defrost the actuator moves with enough power to move the vents but when I press to any setting for the center vents it will barely move . See video what do you guys understand from this ?
What I did was removed the actuator for now and just lefted manually blowing to the center vents , but I really will like to fix this .

The HVAC directly powers the actuators. Testing the actuator outside of the case won’t provide accurate results, because the module is looking for a change in amperage when the door reaches end of travel. When it never sees an amperage change, it has no frame of reference to move to the next position. I suspect you are able to get it to move in the defrost direction as a fail safe in the event that motor position is lost.