800a sub help

[TXAG]

I am not happy with my stock non B&O system, and am thinking a small sub behind the rear seat would fix things. I am not an audiophile by an means, and was quite happy with my 15 platinum Sony system. I have heard these sound better than the unleashed subs: https://www.levittownfordparts.com/sku/vml3z-18808-a.html
. I saw the MTI boxes, but I do not want to cut or remove the insulation behind the seat. I read there was a pioneer box that fits a 10 that works, but looks like it's discontinued. Looks like the Ford Kicker route will endup costing 1k or so after install. Any other ideas? Am I missing anything?

 

[Grayson]

This is a rabbit hole. You need to decide what you want first; do you want more bass only or do you want SQ as well?

You can fit several of the loaded enclosures or hideaways behind the rear seat. The ford Kicker route is a waste of money IMO however it is or at least was plug and play.

 

[TXAG]

This is a rabbit hole. You need to decide what you want first; do you want more bass only or do you want SQ as well?

You can fit several of the loaded enclosures or hideaways behind the rear seat. The ford Kicker route is a waste of money IMO however it is or at least was plug and play.

I honestly just want it to sound like my 15 platinum with the stock Sony setup. I have read numerous reports of even the upgraded B&O setup not sounding as good as the previous Sony offering. I get what you are saying though. I would not mind swapping the door speakers for better ones, but I really don't want an amp setup for those. I really don't want anything heavyweight for the sub either. My factory Sony setup was loud with good sound quality in the cab, and good bass response. But even when it was turned up you really could not hear it from outside of the cab. That won't be the case if I go high quality components driven with amps. Going to be hard to match the Sony.

 

[The Car Stereo Company]

as i have said before, you cant fit a decent subwoofer behind the seat on these trucks. the oem box is too flimsy for a better sub, and any aftermarket sub will need more airspace than whats there. the way the seat pivots when you fold it up, is why you cant fit anything back there. there are companies that make a seat relocation bracket to move the seat forward, so you can fit a bigger subwoofer, but its not something i personally recommend

 

[Grayson]

I honestly just want it to sound like my 15 platinum with the stock Sony setup. I have read numerous reports of even the upgraded B&O setup not sounding as good as the previous Sony offering. I get what you are saying though. I would not mind swapping the door speakers for better ones, but I really don't want an amp setup for those. I really don't want anything heavyweight for the sub either. My factory Sony setup was loud with good sound quality in the cab, and good bass response. But even when it was turned up you really could not hear it from outside of the cab. That won't be the case if I go high quality components driven with amps. Going to be hard to match the Sony.

What's your budget? If you don't want to amplify the set up any aftermarket speakers are going to be mildly better than stock. Replace the front 6x9's with Infinity Ref 9633's and see if that helps. It's under $200 and might give you some of what you are looking for. The kicker hideaway 10 will give you more bass than the Sony system.

 

[TXAG]

What's your budget? If you don't want to amplify the set up any aftermarket speakers are going to be mildly better than stock. Replace the front 6x9's with Infinity Ref 9633's and see if that helps. It's under $200 and might give you some of what you are looking for. The kicker hideaway 10 will give you more bass than the Sony system.

No budget. You think the hideaway 10 will be better than the Kicker I linked in the OP? On the 150 forum they are reviewing it as a big improvement over the B&O factory sub. Looks like the hideaway would cost less if its as good or better than the one I linked. Would you run a DSP to the hideaway? Another question, do you like the 6x9's better than the 6 1/2's for the doors? I read you can go with either. Thanks for the help!

 

[Shane361]

The 6.5s are a better direction in terms of sound but you might be able to acquire a little more bass with the 6x9's if you decide not to do a sub or even a small one. The issue is the better the speaker the more need for more amplification. The room for error here with equipment is pretty high IMO. I tend to do more with more, not more with less. SoundsGoodStereo is lookiing at release a sub box soon with two 6.5 subs. Check them out. Good Luck!

 

[The Car Stereo Company]

No budget. You think the hideaway 10 will be better than the Kicker I linked in the OP? On the 150 forum they are reviewing it as a big improvement over the B&O factory sub. Looks like the hideaway would cost less if its as good or better than the one I linked. Would you run a DSP to the hideaway? Another question, do you like the 6x9's better than the 6 1/2's for the doors? I read you can go with either. Thanks for the help!

you will be fine not using a dsp for the subwoofer, however you will still be limited by the oem eq curve. i am a huge fan of mosconi sound processors. i use the 6to 8 aerospace in my truck. but for you, nav tv has a module that eliminates the oem amp and gives you rca outputs to go directly to an amp or processor. when you are ready to do a full upgrade, you should use the zen module with a proper dsp to remove the oem eq curve. but if just adding a subwoofer, you can probably use an audio control lc2i. as much as i hate those things, they seem to work ok. also audiomobile was coming out with their lds again. not sure about when, but their old ones worked really well. not sure why they discontinued them, but at some point they will be back. when you do add the sub and amp,make sure to tag the front speaker signals as input for the bass amp.

 

[Grayson]

you will be fine not using a dsp for the subwoofer, however you will still be limited by the oem eq curve. i am a huge fan of mosconi sound processors. i use the 6to 8 aerospace in my truck. but for you, nav tv has a module that eliminates the oem amp and gives you rca outputs to go directly to an amp or processor. when you are ready to do a full upgrade, you should use the zen module with a proper dsp to remove the oem eq curve. but if just adding a subwoofer, you can probably use an audio control lc2i. as much as i hate those things, they seem to work ok. also audiomobile was coming out with their lds again. not sure about when, but their old ones worked really well. not sure why they discontinued them, but at some point they will be back. when you do add the sub and amp,make sure to tag the front speaker signals as input for the bass amp.

He doesn't need a NavTV Zen module regardless of what upgrade he decides to go with. It's base audio with no factory amp.

No budget. You think the hideaway 10 will be better than the Kicker I linked in the OP? On the 150 forum they are reviewing it as a big improvement over the B&O factory sub. Looks like the hideaway would cost less if its as good or better than the one I linked. Would you run a DSP to the hideaway? Another question, do you like the 6x9's better than the 6 1/2's for the doors? I read you can go with either. Thanks for the help!

The Kicker hideaway 10" will be better than the B&O factory sub or factory kicker upgrade.

You can use ForScan to flatten the EQ to 0, I believe factory is 1 or 2. Using a DSP is up to you, its not needed but it will greatly improve sound quality.

Dayton DSP408 is around $165-$180 or you could go with what The Car Stereo Company recommended the Mosconi Aerospace 6 to 8 DSP for $1300 but based on your comments of doing minimal work and complication I think it would be a waste of money. You can get a factory radio to aftermarket amplifier integration harness from several different companies for a minimal amount.

 

[The Car Stereo Company]

He doesn't need a NavTV Zen module regardless of what upgrade he decides to go with. It's base audio with no factory amp.


The Kicker hideaway 10" will be better than the B&O factory sub or factory kicker upgrade.

You can use ForScan to flatten the EQ to 0, I believe factory is 1 or 2. Using a DSP is up to you, its not needed but it will greatly improve sound quality.

Dayton DSP408 is around $165-$180 or you could go with what The Car Stereo Company recommended the Mosconi Aerospace 6 to 8 DSP for $1300 but based on your comments of doing minimal work and complication I think it would be a waste of money. You can get a factory radio to aftermarket amplifier integration harness from several different companies for a minimal amount.

gotcha. thought i read he had the b&o.