GEN 2 2018 SCREW long distance trip report with MPG

Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.

OriginalToken

Full Access Member
Joined
Apr 17, 2018
Posts
180
Reaction score
155
My wife and I just got back from a reasonably long distance road trip, the first long trip (over 600 miles total) we have taken in our 2018 SCREW. This was 3 weeks and 5948.5 miles total, covering (at least touching) CA, AZ, NV, NM, TX, OK, CO, KS, MO, NE, SD, IA, WY, and UT.


We hit many of the major National Forest / Parks in these areas, Death Valley (hardly counts, as that is near home and I am there often), Bryce Canyon, Zion, Dixie, Grand Canyon, Thunder Basin, etc, etc. Literally lost track of how many we hit. All striking, all worth the visit.


There was some light 4x4 involved, and lots of dirt roads, but nothing to test the off-road ability of the Raptor. This was a cruising trip, not an off-road adventure, the vast majority of the trip was highway or paved back road travel. My truck has substantial off road mileage on it, but that is all closer to home. I live in the high desert of California.


We started the trip with 7493 miles on our 5 month old Super Crew / 802A / Tech. The only mods to the truck are for radio gear, a sport bar is installed to hold antennas and various radios installed, covering HF to UHF frequencies.


While my wife believes in taking half the house with her in suitcases when we travel, everything was contained to inside the cab of the truck. No trailer or loaded bed.


On road the Raptor was exceptionally well behaved for a truck. The ride was quite and smooth. One exception to this were a few very short segments of concrete pavement that seemed to have a wave / chop in them that resulted in some significant bounce / vibration in the ride. Not sure what combination of conditions caused this, but it was significant. Fortunately, this was not common, or long. I never could find a speed that negated this, but I did shift my position in the lane and it did seem to reduce the impact.


Performance was as expected. Altitudes from below sea level to over 10500 feet were encountered, with some significant time above 10000 feet. Regardless of altitude power was abundant. For a part of the trip we caravanned with a friend in a 2018 Ford F150 4x4 Platinum with 5.0 V8. He has some goodies and a tune on his ride bumping the HP to about the same as the stock Raptor. It was apparent that the Raptor suffered less loss of power at higher altitudes than his V8.


Regarding gas mileage:


I ran premium the entire trip. I have tried regular and premium in the truck, and find no significant impact to mileage running regular, however I do feel like (seat of the pants indications) premium results in better power and performance, so premium is my choice when available.


The least expensive gas we found was in NM and IA, the most expensive (more than in CA even) in Parowan, UT.


My tire inflation is at 38 PSI front / 35 PSI back.


On average we filled up around every 400 miles. My typical speeds are 4 to 12 MPH over the posted. In a 65 I am normally doing about 72-75, in a 75 I am doing about 81, in an 80 I am doing about 84.


I found the indicated mileage and the calculated mileage to be significantly different. I have noticed this before, but since I kept a complete log of the trip it was easy to document during the trip. The indicated mileage consistently showed 1 to 1.5 MPG better than the real, calculated, mileage. The largest delta we saw was an indicated that was 1.7 MPG better than calculated.


In 5948.5 miles we used 373.9 gallons, for a calculated MPG of 15.91. Trip A odo was reset with each fueling, Trip B odo was run for the entire trip, and the indicated MPG on Trip B at the end was 17.2 MPG


The best segment we got was an indicated 20.5 MPG (calculated 19.2) for the 445 mile section of I-40 on the east face of the Continental Divide. This was with the cruise set at 81 MPH. It was interesting to see 400 miles indicated as past, and still show more than 300 to empty, for a total indicated range over 700 miles. I did snap a picture of that a bit earlier, when only 300'ish miles were past.


The worst segment was going up the west face to the same point, with an indicated 15.8 MPG (calculated 14.4), also with cruise set at 81.


Speed and mileage are closely coupled in this truck. For the few segments where I was at 65 or less the mileage was consistently showing 19+ MPG, often over 20 MPG. I just have a hard time keeping to those speeds ;) And it only takes a few hard starts to kill the mileage also.


T!
 

zemuron99

Full Access Member
Joined
Jan 23, 2018
Posts
381
Reaction score
382
Location
Seattle
Would like to see pics of your radio installs. As a fellow ham myself I'm looking for good clean install ideas. Probably going to have 3 units altogether as I also want to cover FRS/GMRS and CB. Great report. If you can get it to work, there's some instructions on going into Engineering Test Mode and updating the AFE number to bring your displayed and actual mileage more into line: I haven't been able to get it (Eng Test Mode) to work on my '17 yet but maybe you'll get better results:

Another poster got Engineering Test Mode to work on his 2018 Raptor. Below are the steps he took. He also has a video in the original link.
  1. Start with the engine off, close the door, wait 30+ seconds until all dash lights, interior lights, and exterior lights are off.
  2. Press and hold OK Button on the left side of the steering wheel and don't release it yet.
  3. Push start Button only (no brake pedal) to turn on Accessory Mode.
  4. Once the message “Full Accessory Power Active” appears, release the OK button, then quickly press the brake pedal and turn the engine on.
  5. Engineering Test Mode appears instantly. This is what does NOT happen on my '17. I just get a normal start/display. If it goes to ETM, then go to next step
  6. Use the down arrow to scroll to AFE Bias (32 presses of the down arrow) and push OK to change it to the number you calculated, then push OK again to save your value.
  7. Once done, turn off truck and it will update your mpg, including your Trip 1 and Trip 2. You'll see it has changed the next time you start the truck.
The whole post w/video is here: https://www.fordraptorforum.com/threads/forscan-changes-tweak-your-truck.52149/page-119

To calculate your AFE number:
Take your hand calculated MPG and divide it by the Trip A or B display MPG....then multiply by 1000. This new number is what you will change the AFE Bias to.
The OP's number worked out to be 934 because his hand calculation was 18.3mpg and his LOM (lie-O-meter aka trip mileage display) said 19.6mpg. Example: 18.3/19.6 = .9337xxxx. Multiply by 1000 gave him 934 (rounded up) as the number to use.
 
OP
OP
O

OriginalToken

Full Access Member
Joined
Apr 17, 2018
Posts
180
Reaction score
155
Would like to see pics of your radio installs. As a fellow ham myself I'm looking for good clean install ideas. Probably going to have 3 units altogether as I also want to cover FRS/GMRS and CB. Great report. If you can get it to work, there's some instructions on going into Engineering Test Mode and updating the AFE number to bring your displayed and actual mileage more into line: I haven't been able to get it (Eng Test Mode) to work on my '17 yet but maybe you'll get better results:


<<<snip instructions for entry into Engineering Test Mode, which worked like a charm>>>


Excellent, thanks for the information on Engineering Test Mode. I was able to get into it first try and set my AFE bias. Now the Trip B MPG indicated matches exactly what I achieved over the ~5950 mile trip. I will have to see how that carries forward.


As for pics of my radio install. Sure, can do, however this is actually a temporary install just for this trip. My permanent install will be a Kenwood TS2000x which will get me HF-VHF-UHF all in one unit, using the RC2000 control head, and a Uniden BCD536HP scanner. I actually had this all installed in the truck until 2 weeks before the trip, then the TS2000 had a small issue. So for the trip, in place of the TS2000x, I installed a Kenwood TS480SAT for HF/6M and a Yaesu FT7900R for VHF/UHF.


I don't have pics of the TS2000x installation, after I get the radio back form repair and reinstall I will post some. But I went out and grabbed some quick snaps of the current temporary install.


The current install is three radios and four antennas. The three radios are a Kenwood TS480SAT for HF/6M, Yasue FT7900R for 2M/70cm, and Uniden BCD536HP for scanner. The four antennas are a Tarheel 75A for HF coverage (80 to 10 meters, no 160 meters with this install, but I have a 160 meter dipole and coax wound up behind the seats if needed), a Diamond 685S for 6 meters, a Diamond NR770HB for 2M/70cm, and a Comet 2X4SR wideband antenna for the scanner.


The three VHF/UHF antennas are mounted on a power up/down light bar, so they can be dropped for low overhead clearance areas. The HF antenna has a quick disconnect, but eventually will be power up/down also.


So, the temporary install as it currently is:


3/4 view of the truck with antennas up. The Tarheel is mounted inside the bed, near the right rear corner. The three upper antennas, on the sports bar, left to right, 2X4SR scanner antenna, Diamond 685S 6 meter antenna, Diamond NR770HB VHF/UHF antenna.

Truck_radios_01.jpg


Rear view of the truck showing the antennas up, Tarheel on far right, lower. As before, the three upper antennas, on the sports bar, left to right, 2X4SR scanner antenna, Diamond 685S 6 meter antenna, Diamond NR770HB VHF/UHF antenna.

Truck_radios_02.jpg


3/4 view of the truck with the antennas down. This function is controlled by Aux switches on the overhead inside.

Truck_radios_03.jpg


This is how the Tarheel is mounted, on a Builtright Bedrack. Nice and solid, no extra holes to drill. Unseen in the picture is a bonding strap running behind it all. The coax and antenna control cable exit the bed via a grommeted hole near the upper right corner of the Builtright rack. I did have to slightly enlarge the preexisting hole to get everything to fit.

Truck_radios_04.jpg


This is how the three forward coax's and control cables are run down out of the sport bar and into the side of the bed. The ones exiting the upper corner of the bed are the control lines for the power up/down feature, as well as extra power lines if I want to add lights. That bundle goes to the engine compartment and a relay control box I put together to control the up/down via the Aux switches. The lower bundle, exiting the lower front of the bed, are the antenna coax's. They go directly (forming a rain loop) from that rubber plug to a corner of the existing flappered air vent behind the driver side rear seat. This way no holes were drilled to get the coax into the cab.

Truck_radios_05.jpg


This is the MFJ Screwdriver Antenna Controller used to tune the Tarheel antenna. When the cubby door is closed nothing is visible here.

Truck_radios_06.jpg


This is how the radios are mounted. Remember, this was originally, and will be again, intended for a single radio, the TS2000x. A piece of Unistrut is run between two pieces of angle aluminum. The radios are then bolted to the Unistrut using standard U strut fixtures. For the heavier HF radio a second piece of U strut is run on top, clamping down the radio. All existing mounting bolts were used, no new holes drilled. When the rear seat is down nothing is seen, and the whole things takes up maybe an extra 2 inches of space under the seat (form the original panel position). With the TS2000x installation, since the VHF/UHF radio (the smaller radio in this picture) is not needed, I still have half the underseat room to use for storage. All of the cords will be better dressed in the final install.

Truck_radios_07.jpg


Two pictures of the Uniden BCD536HP scanner installed in the center console. The first as it normally is, the second showing how the two way radio mics can be run out of the center console for operation (they are stored in the console when not in use). This scanner can be GPS enabled with the optional GPS and will automatically change frequency databases / lists as you drive. An exceptionally nice feature that makes traveling with a scanner easy. Note that since the center console is closed while driving down the road, you can't see the scanner to read the display, or reach any of the front face mounted controls. This is not really a problem, as will be seen later, since you can remote control the scanner.

Truck_radios_08.jpg

Truck_radios_09.jpg


This is the center stack. The Kenwood TS480SAT control head is on the dashboard center. The FT7900R 2M/70cm control head is in the sun glass holder, and can be closed away. The remote control and display for the Uniden scanner is the retired Samsung S5 mounted at the back of the overhead running Unidens Siren control software. Via this you can control all features of the scanner as well as read the services as the scanner stops on them. AUX 1 switch folds the antennas down, AUX 2 motors them back up. AUX 5 powers the scanner and AUX 6 powers the radar detector. This allows me to kill the scanner and the RD at the flip of a switch, such as when driving through the gate at work, where neither devices are allowed to be active.

Truck_radios_10.jpg


Detail shot of how the TS480SAT control head is mounted, using a Builtright Industries Dash Mount. When the TS2000x is repaired this position will be returned to stock. The Kenwood head mount has a quick release, so the head can be unsnapped in seconds and put out of sight.

Truck_radios_11.jpg


Side view of the Uniden R3 radar detector on my custom overhead mount (thread on that here https://www.fordraptorforum.com/threads/radar-detector-install-over-mirror.61355/ ), the FT7900R control head in the sunglass holder, and the Samsung S5 / Scanner control head. With the glasses holder closed this becomes very clean and low vis.

Truck_radios_12.jpg


Head on view of the overhead installation. Again showing (front to rear) Uniden R3 radar detector, Yasue FT7900R control head, and repurposed old smart phone for scanner control. You can see the scanner interface in this picture. For some people the Samsung might be a bit too far back for comfortable use in this position, but since I run the drivers seat all the way back it works OK for me.

Truck_radios_13.jpg


In the original intended install the RC2000 control head goes where the FT7900R control head is now and there is nothing on the dashboard. That way when you close the glasses holder no radio gear is visible in the cab, only the radar detector and the smart phone on the overhead is seen. After the TS2000 is fixed I will return to that configuration.


T!
 
Last edited:

subterfuge

Full Access Member
Joined
Aug 13, 2018
Posts
102
Reaction score
55
Sorry for the stupid question but what are all those antennas for?
 
OP
OP
O

OriginalToken

Full Access Member
Joined
Apr 17, 2018
Posts
180
Reaction score
155
Sorry for the stupid question but what are all those antennas for?

Most of them are for ham radio applications. One is for a police/fire/emergency services scanner.

The ham radio gear allows communications in areas where no other forms (except sat phone, intermittently) work. I have a bad habit of going off-roading in our local area (the high desert of CA) alone. Not recommended. However with this gear I can ALWAYS reach someone, and quite often I can reach my wife at home (also a licensed ham) even when I am in the deepest, steepest walled, canyon in the Death Valley area.

The police/fire scanner should be self explanatory. It is nice to hear what is going on...and to keep track of where the BLM rangers are working.

T!
 

jabroni619

FRF Addict
Joined
Jun 13, 2017
Posts
2,057
Reaction score
1,418
Nice writeup. I'll be doing a road trip from San Diego to Denver in the near future with a side-by-side in tow. I'll be documenting the MPG as well.
 
Top