2018 SCAB WinerIsBetter

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Felt like documenting my attempt at running wire to a Swarfworks Rear Winch purchased summer 2020 on a 2018 SCAB. My goals were:

1) Run off front OEM battery location
2) Have way to disconnect and drop the winch for maintenance without having to un-wire it while under the truck
3) Pick wire size appropriate so the gauge isn't the restriction on power given the long distance from the engine bay to the rear bumper. This was kind of a guess. Max load on a Warn 12 S is 446A at 12,000lbs and wire size is rated on continuous load where a winch is more intermittent. Warn ships it with 6ft of SAE #2. I went with AWG 2/0 and used almost all of 25ft. I know another guy who went with AWG 1/0.
4) Some kind of wire protection for abrasion and heat, mainly near the turbo.



Parts list for wiring:
1) $189 - 25ft ea. AWG 2/0 black and red battery grade fine strand copper wire with 10 terminals and 3ft heat shrink tubing. After a lot of searching, Home Depot was the lowest price for wire combined with the other stuff. IF YOU HAVE A SCREW, 25ft will not be enough if you use the routing I did. See pics for how much I had left over on a SCAB and the small amount I have have coiled under the bed.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/WindyNa...Tubing-20AWG-25B-25R-10LUGS38-3HS34/308415414

2) $74.25 - 45ft fire resistant, split corrugated plastic loom. Should have bought as much as I did wire length. 5/8in fit my 2/0 wire perfectly. Size appropriately for your wire. I would have preferred not split, but I also wanted something very snug to the wire and knew I'd never get the wire pulled through with how little clearance there is between my wire insulation OD and the loom ID. This is mainly for abrasion resistance and hoping moisture, salt and crap doesn't get inside too much.
https://www.wiringproducts.com/5-8-inch-flame-retardant-wire-loom

3) $49.50 - 50pc stainless steal wire hangers with rubber cushion. Sized for the 3/4in OD of my loom. I didn't use all 50, but originally bought 20 and had to wait 1.5 weeks for more $0.99 parts and it sucked while the truck was half way wired and on jack stands.
https://www.wiringproducts.com/3-4-cushioned-stainless-steel-cable-clamps-bag-of-10.html

4) $39.90 - Anderson plug rated for 350A continuous. Going from 1/0 to 2/0 let me jump to this size plug and that was a major driver behind the wire size
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017U4ZM6A/?tag=fordraptorforum-20

5) $15.90 - rubber covers for the plug if it's disconnected
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00OVEJKAW/?tag=fordraptorforum-20

6) $19.05 - heat shield mainly used in the engine bay where the wire goes over the fender and is in the general area of the turbo.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001HYSCB2/?tag=fordraptorforum-20

7) $10 - 50pc Stainless Steel Blind Rivets 3/16" x 1/4" (6-4) Open End Type Pop Rivet sized to fit the hangers. Everything metal is stainless. I don't want to deal with rust.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07PXYP8B5/?tag=fordraptorforum-20



This is the route I took.
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pastorwug

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WOW, amazing - I would have been a little concerned about the self-drilling screws for the conduit holders but great write-up!
 

BroncoAZ

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Great job on the write up and pictures, nice clean work. Not to be critical, but why did you run a separate 2/0 lead for grounding rather than just a short lead from the winch to the frame? Running leads for both is fine but unnecessary. I’m asking to potentially save other who look at your excellent write up some money/time in the future.

The entire frame is grounded to the battery. I add a larger ground wire from the battery to the frame up front, and then ground the accessory (winch, amps, air compressor) directly to the frame at the closest point. Usually a 3/8” stainless bolt tapped into the frame works perfect.

For cable, I use 1/0 or 2/0 heavy welding cable. It is fine strand copper and has a very durable outer casing.

https://www.amazon.com/Gauge-Premium-Extra-Flexible-Welding/dp/B00KD26LE4?ref_=fsclp_pl_dp_13


For the lugs, I use the solder style.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MY5ILO1/?tag=fordraptorforum-20

And adhesive line heat shrink to keep the connections water tight.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000NI066M/?tag=fordraptorforum-20

I’ll probably be adding a second battery to my Raptor for the ARB fridge, so your routing pics will probably help when I tackle that.
 
OP
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WinterIsBetter
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WOW, amazing - I would have been a little concerned about the self-drilling screws for the conduit holders but great write-up!
They're pop rivets. I did have to think about where I was drilling to never go in the cab and be reasonably confident there weren't wires behind (there weren't!). The aluminum panels in all the places I drilled was ~1/8in thick and combined with the right drill size I don't see the rivets ever pulling through. I probably used more hangers than needed.
 
OP
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WinterIsBetter
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Great job on the write up and pictures, nice clean work. Not to be critical, but why did you run a separate 2/0 lead for grounding rather than just a short lead from the winch to the frame? Running leads for both is fine but unnecessary. I’m asking to potentially save other who look at your excellent write up some money/time in the future.

The entire frame is grounded to the battery. I add a larger ground wire from the battery to the frame up front, and then ground the accessory (winch, amps, air compressor) directly to the frame at the closest point. Usually a 3/8” stainless bolt tapped into the frame works perfect.

For cable, I use 1/0 or 2/0 heavy welding cable. It is fine strand copper and has a very durable outer casing.

https://www.amazon.com/Gauge-Premium-Extra-Flexible-Welding/dp/B00KD26LE4?ref_=fsclp_pl_dp_13


For the lugs, I use the solder style.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MY5ILO1/?tag=fordraptorforum-20

And adhesive line heat shrink to keep the connections water tight.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000NI066M/?tag=fordraptorforum-20

I’ll probably be adding a second battery to my Raptor for the ARB fridge, so your routing pics will probably help when I tackle that.
Honestly just didn't know enough to be sure grounding through the frame would work.

Adhesive shrink would have been better; I just used what was already with the wire I bought. My only connections are at the battery or inside the winch box so they're reasonably dry areas.

I do see Swarfworks sells some 1/0 now with terminals already attached for less than I paid. That stuff I bought is extremely fine strand (not to say Paul's isn't), just pointing out welding / battery cable like you linked to is a must.

I spent a long time looking for pictures online of the underside of a Gen2 before starting this and didn't find much. Between that and trying to work around:
* Avoiding going near the turbos as much as possible
* Mounting high to avoid sticks and trail crap
* Running passenger vs. driver side considering the driver's side has parking cable lines and the gas tank is a big obstacle
* Sticking to places I could fit a 90deg. drill to drill the rivet holes

that's why I posted this so others can hopefully learn from what I did.

Good luck on the fridge.
 
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