2014 SCREW A/C-Heater Fan Blower Motor?

[RedFive]

So I cranked up the truck the other day and hit the Auto A/C button and all of a sudden, I hear this horrible vibration/rattle/hum noise from under the passenger side foot well. I figured the fan motor cage broke off or something, so I took it out and found a little rubber bushing sitting inside the fan motor cage. Googling around seems to be a common break problem, but when look at replacement motors I don't see that part on them anywhere. Do the new motors even have that part or did it come from somewhere else inside the truck and just got caught up in the motor? Do I really need a new motor or not? Thanks for any advice before I go buy a new motor and not really need one. Hoping the images show up.

Jarod

 

[Deleted member 12951]

Images do not show up.

 

[Swacer_2]

I've gotten this rattle and hum since last winter. Its not bad, but its getting progressively worse.

 

[HORN HIGH ACES]

So I cranked up the truck the other day and hit the Auto A/C button and all of a sudden, I hear this horrible vibration/rattle/hum noise from under the passenger side foot well. I figured the fan motor cage broke off or something, so I took it out and found a little rubber bushing sitting inside the fan motor cage. Googling around seems to be a common break problem, but when look at replacement motors I don't see that part on them anywhere. Do the new motors even have that part or did it come from somewhere else inside the truck and just got caught up in the motor? Do I really need a new motor or not? Thanks for any advice before I go buy a new motor and not really need one. Hoping the images show up.

Jarod

Mine started making a similar noise and vibration last week. Was it easy to remove? I'd be really curious to see some pics before I try to tear mine apart.

 

[RedFive]

Images do not show up.

Fixed, thanks.

---------- Post added at 11:54 AM ---------- Previous post was at 11:54 AM ----------

I've gotten this rattle and hum since last winter. Its not bad, but its getting progressively worse.

Oh, mine is more than a mild rate/hum. It sounds like a jet engine inside the cab past 2 on the fan speed.

 

[HORN HIGH ACES]

So I cranked up the truck the other day and hit the Auto A/C button and all of a sudden, I hear this horrible vibration/rattle/hum noise from under the passenger side foot well. I figured the fan motor cage broke off or something, so I took it out and found a little rubber bushing sitting inside the fan motor cage. Googling around seems to be a common break problem, but when look at replacement motors I don't see that part on them anywhere. Do the new motors even have that part or did it come from somewhere else inside the truck and just got caught up in the motor? Do I really need a new motor or not? Thanks for any advice before I go buy a new motor and not really need one. Hoping the images show up.

Jarod

Removed my blower motor today and found what appears to be the same plastic piece that you had in yours. I re-installed the motor and it's working fine, but I'm not sure what that part is or what purpose it has.

 

[CIB2007]

Looks like part of the blend door actuator.


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[Swacer_2]

How did you remove your blower motor? I may consider this and see if it helps.

 

[HORN HIGH ACES]

Looks like part of the blend door actuator.

Oh joy. Everything is working so maybe it's not a critical part of it!


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How did you remove your blower motor? I may consider this and see if it helps.

You access it from the passenger side floor board under the glove box. Disconnect the wire harness and take out three 8mm screws. Remove the screw near the firewall first since it is the most difficult one. You may have to pull back the carpet to get it to slide out. It's pretty easy and worth it to check for foreign objects before you take it into a shop.

 

[RedFive]

I think for me it is actually the recirculation door. When I hit the re-circ button or max a/c nothing happens. Still brings in outside air and I think the actuator is fine but the post that drives the door open and closed when the actuator turns is what actually broke off. You pretty much have to remove the dash to get this thing unless anyone knows of any magic that will work.

 

[HORN HIGH ACES]

I think for me it is actually the recirculation door. When I hit the re-circ button or max a/c nothing happens. Still brings in outside air and I think the actuator is fine but the post that drives the door open and closed when the actuator turns is what actually broke off. You pretty much have to remove the dash to get this thing unless anyone knows of any magic that will work.

I found that my air re-circ isn't working either. I updated that in another thread, but forgot to update this one. I haven't looked into getting it repaired, but I assume it's not going to be cheap.

 

[RedFive]

I think it runs around $800+. $85-$100 part and 6hrs labor I suspect. The easy one is $400. The main blend door behind the console is $1200. They have to drain the A/C lines is what I was told by a Ford Tech at the dealer 2 weeks ago. [emoji35]. Apparently it is becoming VERY common. They get dry and brittle and just crack from the torque of the actuator. The actuator use to fail first, then they upgrade d the gears inside so now the blend door cogs are breaking. My stupid brain says, oh I don’t know, steel or aluminum wouldn’t do this and plastic anything just sucks. Anything to save a nickel so they can make a Raptor $30k more than a normal F-150 and still use 99% of the same parts and design!


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[Mick VT]

I had the most expensive actuator done last year - that's the one that controls hot vs cold to the driver side - it is located right at the bottom of the dash behind the console and under the heater. Total cost was about $850 at the dealer. The other two should be significantly cheaper.

However, this sounds like the blend doors, that's going to be much more pricey as the heater unit itself may need to come out and will need to come apart... get them to change the actuators while in there as preventative maintenance - they are cheap, like $60 each

 

[wbabbit]

Same exact thing just happened to me, and it's like I'm looking in a mirror.

 

[wakko0o]

I’m curious, what was the temp outside when you put the blower on when this happened?


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[HORN HIGH ACES]

I’m curious, what was the temp outside when you put the blower on when this happened?


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It was the middle of summer for me so probably 80 to 90 degrees. Being in Colorado, I'm wondering if our dry climate had more to do with it.

 

[wakko0o]

It was the middle of summer for me so probably 80 to 90 degrees. Being in Colorado, I'm wondering if our dry climate had more to do with it.

Thank you for quick reply. No I thought maybe it was on cold temps and turning up the fan at high caused the plastic to snap due to the torque. But that’s not the case. It’s a common occurrence. I’ve learn to just increase the blower speed slower. Can’t help it when I remote start the truck though, the blower goes on full blast defrost.


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[dmpizzi]

This just happened to me yesterday after a remote start. The blower when full blast and broke the cog off the recirculation door. I had the horrible humming noise when I got into the truck. I took the blower motor off and sure enough its in there. I reinstalled the blower and it works fine but now my air is stuck open for outside air only. My premium care just expired last month so I'm annoyed with this. I'm not sure if it's worth the fix or not. Online research seems this is a common problem.

 

[Zbocker]

I was thinking of just fixing the blend door in the up position with a zip tie or something. If you put a mirror up in the hole after you remove the fan motor. It’s on the center dash side where the part broke off. Anyone thought of fixing it to stay in the rec position.

 

[Wingnutlj]

2014 Raptor 27,000 miles. Fan motor started howling like crazy, sounded like the truck was ready to explode. Did anyone find a fix for the noise, it is waking the dead at the local cemetery and scared the devil out of me! thanks