2011 Raptor Pre-Purchase

[WhiteRaptor88]

Looking at getting into a 2011 raptor screw 79k on the clock 1 owner was a trade in - only issue is its about 5hrs one way . So besides detailed pics etc. from the dealer. I'm trying to consolidate as good of an inspection as possible when I do go to finally look at it , as i'll only see it once if I do end up purchasing.

Coming from tundra's and tacomas - I always look over the frames for rot haha. But besides from that what should I be looking for with these raptors anything in specific ( have done a fair amount of searching here prior this post)? Besides the normal leaks wear/tear - etc. I already know this has untouched shocks all around - that have some corrosion in the rears.

My main concern is if it was jumped/hammered by the prior owner - so Im told this was not a daily , and was owned by an older gentleman. Plan on checking the bed to cab gap , frame mounts , rear bump stop areas .

Is this where anything will tweak if its going to ?any other areas that are tall tale signs ? Price was recently dropped a hair under 30k with 79k miles one owner - seems to be a good deal in the New England area from what Im gathering here .

Any help/insight is appreciated .

 

[Highway76]

I just bought an 11 w/ 100k on it. I looked at a few before pulling the trigger so this is kind of what I did.

Ways to tell it was driven like it was meant to:

1. Check the obvious places like skid plate, lower arms, bump stomps, rear diff, etc. for damage. Scratches are not necessarily a deal breaker, but big scrapes and chunks missing should be.

2. Check where the top corner of the bed meets the cab. There will be rub marks here if it has been off roaded pretty hard. Usually if there is rub marks here, the cab gap is probably off also.

3. Check the fender splash guard for bottoming out. Will be tire rub marks.

4. Check for modifications. Not necessarily a deal breaker, but if someone has 3-4k in suspension mods, they most likely use said mods. I test drove a 12 that had full ICON kit and it was most definitely "enjoyed".

Some things i noticed a few days after i bought mine I wished I had found:

1. Infamous driveshaft clunk. Didn't notice on the test drive. It usually appears when the transmission is warm. So make sure you get the trans over 170-180 and then do some stops and goes to check for it. Easy fix so this should give you some bargaining power.

2. The offroad/ hill descent and upfitter switches were disconnected. Flip the switches on they should light orange.

3. Run the A/C and check under the passenger floor mat for moisture. Mine is leaking from the drain.

4. Check the bumper step and the bed rail at the front. Someone had rammed what appears to be a 4 wheeler or something into mine while loading and its bent. It was hidden by a plastic drop in bed liner so i didnt notice. If it has a bed liner check under it.

 

[WhiteRaptor88]

I just bought an 11 w/ 100k on it. I looked at a few before pulling the trigger so this is kind of what I did.

Ways to tell it was driven like it was meant to:

1. Check the obvious places like skid plate, lower arms, bump stomps, rear diff, etc. for damage. Scratches are not necessarily a deal breaker, but big scrapes and chunks missing should be.

2. Check where the top corner of the bed meets the cab. There will be rub marks here if it has been off roaded pretty hard. Usually if there is rub marks here, the cab gap is probably off also.

3. Check the fender splash guard for bottoming out. Will be tire rub marks.

4. Check for modifications. Not necessarily a deal breaker, but if someone has 3-4k in suspension mods, they most likely use said mods. I test drove a 12 that had full ICON kit and it was most definitely "enjoyed".

Some things i noticed a few days after i bought mine I wished I had found:

1. Infamous driveshaft clunk. Didn't notice on the test drive. It usually appears when the transmission is warm. So make sure you get the trans over 170-180 and then do some stops and goes to check for it. Easy fix so this should give you some bargaining power.

2. The offroad/ hill descent and upfitter switches were disconnected. Flip the switches on they should light orange.

3. Run the A/C and check under the passenger floor mat for moisture. Mine is leaking from the drain.

4. Check the bumper step and the bed rail at the front. Someone had rammed what appears to be a 4 wheeler or something into mine while loading and its bent. It was hidden by a plastic drop in bed liner so i didnt notice. If it has a bed liner check under it.

Good info - great timing. Thanks for the tips on the witness marks etc. driveshaft yes ha Toyota has something very similar going on . Not savy with the options as I know this can influence price some .This does not have beadlocks but has a sunroof, side steps & nav/backup camera from what I can vaguely gather in the pics.

 

[13ho13ho]

I recently picked up a 13 with 116k on the odo. I got mine from NJ, a big thing in the North is salt, i have to replace the body mounts as rust has consumed the exposed parts (not a huge deal) also be sure to check the four wheel drive system, my IWE's were fried (also, didnt know this at the time) if you get up to high way speed(60 is) and then lightly put the engine under load, you should NOT hear a grinding sound coming from the front end, again not a deal breaker but something like this is a tedious process to the untrained, as older bolts like to stay tight and dont budge easily.

Edit: these can be used as bargining chips

 

[Ricoman]

Looking at getting into a 2011 raptor screw 79k on the clock 1 owner was a trade in - only issue is its about 5hrs one way . So besides detailed pics etc. from the dealer. I'm trying to consolidate as good of an inspection as possible when I do go to finally look at it , as i'll only see it once if I do end up purchasing.

Coming from tundra's and tacomas - I always look over the frames for rot haha. But besides from that what should I be looking for with these raptors anything in specific ( have done a fair amount of searching here prior this post)? Besides the normal leaks wear/tear - etc. I already know this has untouched shocks all around - that have some corrosion in the rears.

My main concern is if it was jumped/hammered by the prior owner - so Im told this was not a daily , and was owned by an older gentleman. Plan on checking the bed to cab gap , frame mounts , rear bump stop areas .

Is this where anything will tweak if its going to ?any other areas that are tall tale signs ? Price was recently dropped a hair under 30k with 79k miles one owner - seems to be a good deal in the New England area from what Im gathering here .

Any help/insight is appreciated .

I'd call and see if they would let you do (and pay for) a PPI on it before you make the drive...then Google PPI Inspections and find a shop close by...they range from $75-$150...if they will do that for you,it will at least save you the 10 hrs drive and give you a good idea of condition.....
Mine was 1000 miles away,put the word out on Google and within a few hours had 6-8 local shops that would do it for me.Was well worth the $100 they charged...they even told me that no error codes were ever thrown,and gave a 99% out of 100....its a cheap piece of mind when spending big $$.
Do NOT rely on the Ford MPI...its just some kid kicking the tires and checking the oil and saying,looks good to me...! You want a complete inspection..

 

[Tominator]

There was a recall on the driveshaft for the 2011. The dealer replaced mine for free. You may want to make sure this Raptor has the correct drive shaft.

 

[Remoat]

I bought my 12 SCab in august. For being from the north, starting in Jamestown, NY then to S.E. Michigan, before I took ownership it doesnt have horrible rust. Check the rockers under the doors, thats a classic rust area for all f150s that have been exposed to too many winters. In my experience anyways. I'd ask for pics of the underbody along the rockers and some shots of the shocks. If you havent seen them already.

 

[Richard Hinsley]

I was looking a 2011 SCREW before I bought my truck and theres a transmission recall where it can suddenly downshift to 1st gear causing a crash and or injury. Definitely something to ask.

 

[WhiteRaptor88]

Sure thing on the recalls , thanks for all the info. in here - surely will help me out this week or whenever I look at one . Really trying to find one closer as it makes it a lot easier. Just curious if my ballpark is correct 80-100k mi trucks are still netting 30k ish give or take east coast .

 

[kennyh]

Bought a 2010 blue scab earlier this year out of San Antonio from an individual for 24.5K, 85K miles, perfect body and paint, new KO2's. Shocks were in bad need of a rebuild, trans needed a fluid filter change, hvac fan motor resistor needed replacing, minor stuff......truck only needs new plugs to complete the 100K mile maintenance agenda....coolest vehicle I own, right up there with my 1970 428 Mach1