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I'm in Doral, have used 3 inch in and 3 inch out straight through Corsa Sport Muffler. I also have like new (100 miles of use) magnaflow muffler, 2.5 inch in and 2.5 in out straight through, part 12286. Have stock resonator off my 2012 GEN 1, 3 inch. Let me know if interested.

Sold!

I have new in box Corsa 3" Muffler part number 20FF2012 for GEN1, 6.2L and 5.0L, the muffler is for this system https://www.corsaperformance.com/collections/ford-f-150-raptor/products/3-0-sport-cat-back-14387 Including shipping, asking $165.

So far, starts right up, no more delay/pause thingy.

You have to pay the shipping to return the core, will probably cost about $15 to return core, I'm mailing it back this Saturday, if less than $25.

Replaced the starter. Bit of a challenge, but after took off the fender flare/liner, it helped greatly to see and get at the top and middle bolts, definitely recommend removing, especially if have headers. Bought Reman from FordPartsGiant.com $82. Picture below is new starter next to old...

I installed, not a fan of the connector to the vacuum line by the master cylinder, it just doesn't have that "lock on" feeling over the end of vacuum line like OEM. I put liquid tape around the connection as I'm paranoid it would come off. The line is tad thicker than OEM, so very very tight...

If you go with Crown Performance Stainless Steel Brake Line Kit, here is what I learned from installing full six hose kit on my 2012. Your mileage may vary and you are probably smarter and more mechanically skilled than me. 1. I really like the hoses, extremely well made and nice looking...

Replaced all the relays in the power distribution box, figured time to do some preventive maintenance.

I took a small hack saw and cut a slit along the bottom of the hose clamp thingy, parallel to the hose. Then widened/spread the slit apart and slipped on the new crown performance flexible hose I bought. Just pry it open on one end of slit and they pop on with a little bit of muscle. I know...

Also check the Vapor Canister Vent Valve / Solenoid, see number 5 in attached picture from maintenance manual, along with checking all hoses and connections of EVAP system, a leak in the EVAP would most likely throw a code. Starter going bad, as noted by others, would be next issue, recommend...

It's been many moons since I did mine, but recall that spherical bearing falls out easily, maybe it's in wrong way around.

Some basic info from Ford Maintenance Manual, for what's worth.

If not torn too bad, black shoe goo makes a good seal over tears in rubber. Cheap temporary repair anyway.

One of the forum vendors, Forged Offroad, with shipping it was $187, you obviously can buy cheaper elsewhere.

CAI is a Volant, wrapped with https://www.heatshieldproducts.com/cold-intake-shield, put adhesive backed shielding on box, with headers, figured every degree cooler air helps, have air scoop as well. Added heat reflecting material on fire wall, fuel rail, sleeves for spark plug wires, A/C lines...

running at normal idle, fluid at normal operating temperature, gauge showed 192 when did the check, vehicle in park, wheels chocked, wore thick leather gloves, as the header collector is right next to the plug, haha, it does get hot under there.

Did another "me too" upgrade, swapped out to the heavy duty transmission cooler, easy enough. Recommend not adding transmission fluid to the cooler as recommended. I added the recommended amount by Forge Off Road and resulted in overfull condition with transmission fluid that came pouring out...

Yes, I have schrader valves on mine and a nitrogen tank / no leak valve setup; or there is the needle method I've read about.

Yep, have their rebuilds, no performance issues, some corrosion underneath where the schrader valve is located, but easily cleaned up with some copper wool and corrosion prevention coating. Rest of the shock body in good shape. I keep shock lightly coated in corrosion prevention material and...

Cleaned all battery cable connections and grounding points in engine bay / engine block / frame. Removed and cleaned all starter cable connections. Coated all connections in either dielectric grease or battery terminal protection spray. Sprayed silicone lubricant (WD-40 Brand) in all window...

Did some Evap System preventive maintenance, replaced the Canister Purge Valve and Vapor Canister Vent Valve / Solenoid. Figured after seven years, time to replace. Took windshield wiper arms off and removed the cowles to remove leaves and crud that gets in underneath the cowles, cleaned and...

Replaced spark plugs, ignition coils, and wires; torqued everything to spec, dielectric grease inside boots and connectors; good lord, took me all day at my skill level! The plugs behind the shock mounts on both sides took some black magic fuckery to get out. The rest pretty easy, only broke one...

Get some epoxy made for hard plastics and put it back on, can use to fill cracks as well. I did this on similar issues on my volant CAI. Cheaper than $200

Removed blower motor and sprayed bottle of Motorcraft A/C Cooling Coil Coating (YN-29) using the A/C Odor Remover Flexible Applicator tool, very easy, and got rid of odor. Some coating dripped out the condensation drain, so I know that bit is not clogged. Cleaned the blower motor fins and...