It's a single, it is the Ford/Kicker set with the 4 door speakers and amp as mentioned before in this post. Didn't put in the door speakers yet and will throw away the amp.
The sub sounds as if it gives only the very low frequencies with very little "determination". Therefore a lot of...
Installed the subwoofer in my supercrew, but not too happy so far. Turned the bass back to -4 position, but still an extreme amount of the lowest frequencies and therefore resonance/vibration. Bass also seems to be a bit out of phase (behind). Did connect the white-blue/brown wire and white/blue...
Than shit it what i like to hear. Have this setup and i am quite happy with it. Removed the tips however. They work like a kind of megaphone which i don't like and i also don't like the looks (too much space between tips and body)
I am looking for the Bedrug, but was wondering how difficult it is to cut it. I have my lpg tank in the front of my bed, so i will need to cut out a part of the floor and front side
It has nothing to do with the trailer harness. I disconnected the plug from the wiring harness that feeds the trailer plug in order to exclude influence from this side. Didn't make any difference
Rear light doesn't blink at all, front light does, so it must be something else
---------- Post added at 12:14 AM ---------- Previous post was at 12:09 AM ----------
Also checked the trailer connector. It has less voltage on the left side than it has on the right side
Or does someone have a wiring diagram? I assume the turn signal functions through the can bus, no separate wire? The connectors have three wires, light, brake light, mass?
Drivers side rear turn signal doesn't work, front does, Arrow in the dash is blinking fast. The light itself is ok, so it must be something in the wiring.
Assume problem is where the dealer connected the trailer plug
Can someone advise me on wiring colours and what Voltage i should measure...
They look good, can't find the tire weight however. Also like the Goodyear Wrangler Duratrac, but as far as I can see these are not available in the right size. 305/55/20 is too small (33,2") and 325/60/20 too big (35,4")
Thanks for the info! That looks pretty good to me and at a reasonable price. If the +30 offset means that the outer wheel line stays where it is now, i can live with it.
Do you also have a good suggestion for A/T tires?
I plan to stay on 35". This set will will mainly see the highway, since it is my dd. I keep the original wheels for offroad purposes. I like your setup, but as mentioned before, i am looking for a "simple" design like the ADV1 or HRE wheels.
The 20" HRE wheels for example are only 26 lbs, so that is not necessarily true. Unfortunately these light wheels come with a heavy price, so i was wondering if there is a more budget friendly alternative that i haven't noticed yet
Looking for 20" wheels, but want to keep weight as low as possible. Like a "clean" style wheel like for example the ADV wheels, but then for a decent price. Any suggestions?
Also considering this exhaust, but wonder whether it will fit, since i already have the SW long tubes. Therefore resonator pipe is gone, together with the flange connection.
Back on topic, its not the amount of flashes that is the problem, but the fact that when you you move the steering wheel in the opposite direction it stops and can't be turned on again. Stopping only after a number of flashes (or manual stop) instead of after steering wheel movement would...
I don't agree. They actually save time, since you prevent unneccessary waiting for trafic lights. Nothing more frustrating then waiting for a traffic light when there is no other traffic around.
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