I backed the pressure off to 200psi on the fronts and put it together with the Eibach springs on the lowest setting. One of the rears had leaked down to 100psi, so I removed the end cap, cleaned the surfaces and reinstalled. It looks like the C clip wasn't seated correctly. I filled with 230psi...
I'm using Eibach springs on the lowest setting. (Got tired of hunting Geiser down to take my $$) I can put the stock spring back on to test. Also are you sure about the hat orientation? I have the taller section on the inside. I didn't remove the spacer from the hat and the hat only installs one...
I rebuilt both the front and rear shocks. Everything went together fine and I ops tested the shocks after rebuilding by pressurizing them with 100psi from my compressor to ensure they moved freely and didn't leak. I could compress the shocks and they'd slowly rebound. Then I had the local ATV...
Just finished rebuilding both the front and rear shocks. A few helpful hints. First the spanner wrench listed above comes with small screw in nubs. Ditch those. Go to the local hardware store and get some 1/4 x 24 grade 8 bolts and thread those into the spanner for a much better fit. Second. It...
$300 for some bright green wires? Please! I just did this just this weekend. My plug wires looked fine and I suspect you could make your own as long as the boots fit the plugs and the ends fit the COPs. I did notice that all 8 of the top plugs looked clean, but all 8 of the bottom plugs were...
I'm thinking about changing the plugs too. 101K miles so it's time. I have two part numbers, NGK-6509 @ $9.99 each and Motorcraft SP-526 @ $4.89 each. My engine is completely stock and I'd be more concerned with a mileage increase more than anything. Is there a benefit with NGK plug?
I was only able to get the mid perch done the night before mounting the tires. I still have to trim the fender flares and hammer the pinch welds. As expected, it rubs on tight turns but that's another thread.
Just arrived today. 37" BFG KO2 and Fuel Formula wheels. I'm currently on the bottom perch and no trimming. I plan on going to mid perch, flattening the pinch welds, and trimming the fender flares.
Doug's cutout broken again
About three months ago I ordered a Doug's Cutout and Y pipe. Two weeks later the cutout motor quit working. I contacted Summit Racing and they sent a new one. The new one worked for a day before the gears stripped. Again Summit sent me a new one. The new cutout was...
My Doug's cutout has been replaced twice. The first lasted about two weeks before the motor fried. The second lasted about a day before the gears stripped. The third has been good for over a month so far. Agree with the lubrication. Shoot it with some WD40 when you wash the truck. Ordered mine...
Today I removed the block from the y pipe. I love the WFO exhaust. Makes the truck sound beast and my gas milage actually went up 1-2 mpg! Went from 14 to 15+ mpg.
Thank you for your input. I took the motor completely out and connected it directly to the battery. Motor was definitely fried. Summit promptly sent a new cutout and today the gears in the new one stripped. Maybe the third one will be the charm.
I actually did take the old cutout apart. The...
If you wire the cutout directly to the switch it will receive a constant 12 volts all the time, this will burn the motor out quickly. The cutout needs a momentary 2 second 12v pulse to open then a momentary 12v 2 sec pulse in the opposite direction to close. The setup worked but just wasn't...
I tried multiple times to make the TR7 module reliable with no luck. It will work for a while, but then it will start trying to close the already closed cutout. I don't know if the TR7 is heat sensitive, but it would work for a while then randomly start acting up. Two weeks, cutout fried. I've...
I have a Doug's and love it. Sounds great open and I can close it for those few times when I don't want it so loud, like leaving after a traffic stop. Only had it a couple weeks and no problems so far. I got the Doug's y pipe and it is high quality with great exhaust clamps.
Hours of wiring and three relays later it works. One major problem is that the TR7 module isn't reliable. Sometimes it will hang or freeze up and I have to unplug it to reset the device. When it does this the cutout will hang trying to open or close. This will burn the motor up in a hurry...
Just a quick update. I have the cutout installed and I'm working on the wiring for the up fitter switch. Looks like I still need a few relays to make it work. The actual cutout install was easy and it sounds great when open.
FWIW, On my S/C Mustang I had to actually grind part of the starter case for clearance. You can't get much closer than that. 3 years and no problems. Not sure how that translates to a Raptor.
Parts are on the way. I wanted an exhaust cutout and I wanted it wired to an upfitter switch.
I ordered a Doug's 3" cutout. $236
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/dou-dec300a-1/overview/
Y pipe, $55
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/dou-h1133/overview/
TR7-Pro Trigger Module $35...
My point has zero to do with income. Everyone on this forum is doing pretty good because we own 40k+ trucks. The premise of trying to make a Raptor into some sort of Euro-trash race car is dumb. Improve it's off-road capability, give it more power, shave weight because it improves off-road...
Thanks for 11 thread pages of ridiculousness. (Titanium engine blocks?, WTF) I want to make my Raptor compete with Ferrari's, Lambo's and Corvettes. I wonder if the Lambo owner is on LamborginiForum.com with a thread asking how to fit 37 inch tires under his Gallardo; I doubt it. The Raptor has...
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