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Hopefully this diagram makes it more clear how things are connected

I am working on tuning my system and have a question about input channel summing on my DSP (Dayton DSP-408). I am feeding 2 of the 8 output channels into a Kicker Hideaway HS4610 powered subwoofer. My DSP has 4 inputs coming into it from a PAC LPA2.4 active line output converter. 2 of the LOC...

I was just looking and it looks like the AmpPRO kits are for the B&O systems. Mine is not a B&O so no factory amp or subwoofer.

That may be a possible future upgrade to it, but I already went WAY beyond what I was planning to do/spend on it. It started out as just adding a powered subwoofer and kind of spun out from there.

I finally have all of the system in and working. I swapped the Pioneer amp with the blown channel with the JL Audio JD400/4. Not only did that fix the issue with the blown channel, but the JLA sounds MUCH better and has significantly more volume compared to the Pioneer even though the RMS...

I would be interested in 1 if you were to do another run.

Should have just gone with the JL in the first place. Pioneer had a blown channel. Ended up returning it and now have a JL Audio JD400/4 on order to replace it.

Yeah I hear you. Sub is set to 20Hz-100Hz, door speakers front door speakers at 100Hz - 4kHz tweeters are 4kHz - 20kHz and the rear door speakers are 100Hz - 18kHz. That was just a base set to get it up and running. Once I disable the factory eq with Forscan and get the replacement amp put...

I have seen quite a few videos about different methods to install aftermarket tweeters to replace the factory tweeters in the A-pillars. I went with a set of JBL club series speakers That were the same diameter as the factory. When I started trying to figure out some sort of bracket to mount...

So the rabbit hole just keeps getting deeper. As I was going along and reading about best practices for the install, I started thinking about DSP and upgrading the tweeters as well. I ended up adding in a Dayton Audio DSP-408 And then added a pair of JBL tweetees for the A-pillars. I had not...

Spent a couple hours this morning resetting gains and swapping around cables to isolate the problem. Turns out it is a bad channel on the 4 channel amp. The amp is an inexpensive Pioneer that fortunately I am going to be able to return it and get a refund. I just ordered a JL Audio JD400/4 to...

I just completed installing the upgrades in my system and the front right door speaker is distorting badly and I can’t figure out why. I am using a PAC 2.4 active line out converter that is connected to the front speaker outputs from the head unit. From there I have 4 channels out of the LOC...

Yeah probably not much difference from a sound perspective. I did make the swap to the pioneer but it was more about the build quality and connections in this case.

More progress made on the amp rack. Got all of the power and ground cable paths laid out and marked. Now I get to drill about 100 holes so I can tie wrap down all of the runs cleanly. Also took a little time to get a set of backup lights mounted on the Raptor. The wiring harnesses from...

It will be tight, but both seat bolts are located where they will fall in the gaps between the kicker and the amp.

Started work on the amp rack today. This is the first test fit to make sure all of the components will fit cleanly on the rack. It is 13x32 to fit behind the back seat without having to modify the back interior panel or relocate the jack. Looks like it is going to work out. There are 2 seat...

I have been busy the past week or so but have been getting in some small odds and ends to complete the install. I am planning to start building the amp rack this coming weekend. Hopefully the next weekend weather will be good and I can get it all installed. The Raptor does not fit through the...

Our other is a 2021 Explorer ST. You might say we have a thing for Ford Performance Vehicles.

Thanks I was already planning to disable the fake engine noise and change the DRL setting so I will take care of that at the same time.

Once I received the Kenwood amplifier I decided that it was not what I wanted. I mainly chose it because it was a familiar brand to me and because of the small footprint. When I received it it felt pretty cheap and only had a pigtail with very small wires for all of the connections. I am...

Since I am swapping the Kenwood for the Pioneer I had to redesign my amp rack. Here is the updated design, I had to make it 8 inches wider to accommodate the bigger amp so it will be 13 inches tall and 32 inches wide. Still should be plenty of room behind the seat for it.

Thanks for the info. Is setting the EQ to zero something that is done in Forscan and can that be done on the non B&O system?

I looked at the JL Audio and it looks like a nice amp, but over my budget. I went ahead and ordered the Pioneer and am going to return the Kenwood. More power and also has screw terminals for power and speaker connections. The Kenwood has a pig tail with lite wires that can be replaced.

I am also starting to second guess my choice for the 4 channel amp. I originally chose the Kenwood KACM-1814 because of price and small footprint, but it is rated at 100w per channel max and 45w RMS. I am now wondering if I should go with something with more power so I am looking at the Pioneer...

Sorry, this is going to be a little long, I previously posted about heading down a rabbit hole with the upgrade to my 2020 Non B&O system. It started out as just getting a Kicker Hideaway and quickly morphed into replacing pretty much everything but the Sync 3 head unit. I am adding the Hideaway...