I’ve gotten both turbos back on the truck and gotten past the heat shield debacle.
The passenger side stock turbo heat shield had to come off completely. I was able to keep the drivers side heat shield by grinding down the head on one of the heat shield bolts. Hopefully it won’t rattle. I’ve...
The only gaskets that should be involved are the 6 manifold gaskets where the manifold mates to the heads. Even those probably don’t need to be replaced unless your truck has 100k+ miles. Mine still looked brand new at 30k.
Has anyone tried to use the stock heat shields with the flowform manifolds and PowerMax turbos. I’m noticing on the drivers side, one of the heat shield bolts is making contact with the manifold. I am taking a hacksaw to the head of the head shield bolt and making it work. The passenger side...
So I’m a President’s Day weekend away from having this job done. My only real problem is the coolant line slip fitting in the picture above (the one on the back of the block on the passenger side). I can see in a mirror that the gasket in the slip fitting is all distorted, it doesn’t look like...
I did mine this weekend, and it really wasn’t bad at all. It was just like in that video except I had to cut the tape where the pigtail had been taped to the side of the the injector plugs on the drivers side. The ID1050s are indexed at a different angle than the stock injectors on the drivers...
Picture of the passenger side turbo below. You can somewhat see how the rear coolant line, while together, isn’t perfectly straight. This was after a lot of struggling but making sure that the gasket in the slip fitting was where it should be. I assume this is normal?
Made good progress this weekend and got the passenger side turbo in. The coolant line in the back is definitely tricky. There is more stress on the slip fitting than I would like. Only time will tell if it will hold.
Hope to get the drivers side buttoned up next weekend.
More pictures coming.
The design of the stock hot-side pipes looks pretty good to me. I thought about changing mine out for the CFV ones, but I did not since the CVF pipes appear to be no larger, are metal so they might get hot and melt something, and they don’t have the tabs to hold them in place like the stock ones do.
Passenger side is now disassembled. Please find a few tips below that build on the very thorough write-up of @Graybeard, which I found very helpful:
- You will have to take the AC compressor and the starter loose. There is no way that I could have completed disassembly without doing that. I’m...
There are no resonators in the stock Gen 2 tailpipes. That is a Raptor R thing. That said, I’ve always liked the concept of resonators in the tail pipes and have hoped someone would make after-market tailpipes with resonators. Maybe SPD will complete their exhaust system that way…
New inconal manifold studs are now installed on the driver’s side. Driver’s side manifold and turbo are almost ready to go in.
I can’t seem to get the return oil filter out on the driver’s side. I’m kind of inclined to just leave it.
Passenger side disassembly is a pain. I’m going to have to...
I’m installing the PowerMax turbos and Full Race manifolds myself, and I finally started turning wrenches today. I got the driver’s side down to the head (manifold and turbo off). That probably took me 6 hours. The messiest part of the job is draining coolant. I got a fair amount out of the...
I have no idea on the basis of condensation. It could simply be condensation from the AC compressor or something else making its way down there.
If there is an exhaust leak I have a feeling you will be able to hear the tic, tic, tic. I always found it useful to take a few feet of an old garden...
It seems like a lot of the recent big turbo builds that you tune are using the AMS downpipes. Any advantage from a power perspective of using the AMS downpipes over the SPD catted downpipes (the ones made from 304 with the turbo adaptors built on)? I notice that the AMS downpipes still use turbo...
At 45k miles, I don't think changing the transmission fluid will cause you any issues. If you went over 100k without changing, it could cause you problems. It is typically "flushing" fluid that moves debris in the wrong direction or wrong places. Just drain as much fluid out as you can and...
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