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Nice that you found the issue. Not sure on running without a front driveshaft, I seem to remember reading that there was a potential issue or that it could cause damage if you run without one. Not sure if that's true, but worth mentioning and maybe checking into.

Correct, the front axles spin all of the time regardless of 2WD or 4WD being selected. Your issue sounds like CV axles too. I simply grabbed my passenger side CV axle and it had excessive play in the inboard joint. Driver side had some, but passenger side was much worse. The play in the joint...

Not sure if you have the same issue my seat had, but my left seat bolster was flat and I would feel like I was sliding out of the seat. A local upholstery place installed new foam just on that side, while leaving the center section alone. They did this with the seat installed in the truck and...

Hopefully the new wheels will clear. Great detailed write-up, especially on the E-Clik install. This thread will be a gold mine for anybody doing E-Clik.

My truck had the atak with the x pipe when I bought it. Sounded like s**t. I added the borla resonator and it’s ok now. It’s a V6. I haven’t heard any exhaust on a raptor that I thought sounded great.

Update: Found both front CV axles to be bad. Well, needing rebuilding and repacked. Strange to have both go bad at the same time. One was much worse than the other, but both were bad. Seems obvious now, but I’ve not ever had CV axles present these symptoms when going bad. Hopefully this can save...

No, I have the full RPG bump stop kit. I wanted protection and did not want to risk slamming my frame onto the axle. RPG Kit I thought it would be worth the investment since I live in Colorado and plan to do some runs. I haven’t even had time to go on any runs, so in hindsight I probably...

What I have seen in the past for these inspections is a list of approved places to have the inspection completed. Probably the first place I would start would be to call the title office in each state that you are considering registering it and ask realllll nice if the person working there can...

Thanks for this. I checked the vacuum on the system. 15 inches at the line going to the IWE in 2WD (on both sides). Checked vacuum at the line that feeds the IWE system before it hits the check valve and it read 15 inches as well. Solenoid also appears to be working every time I checked by...

Good, as far as I can tell. The connections all appear good and the valve itself is only allowing air flow one-way. It was replaced with new when the hubs and IWEs were replaced almost 2 years ago.

An update to this issue for anyone having a similar problem in the future, I was able to make some progress on the source of my issue. While driving in 2H the "thumping" noise is quite noticeable, when I go to 4H the noise stops. So it looks like yet another problem with the **** IWE. I had both...

I’ve read a lot of threads about clunking and thumping noises, but I can’t find one that specific to my issue and that has a solution. Without any incident or recent work done on the truck, I have a thumping/clunking noise coming from the truck. Pretty loud and sounds like it’s in the front...

I believe it was around $1230 for the springs. This doesn’t include new u-bolts. A big saving for me was being able to drive 1.5 hours to pick them up in a place I was going to visit anyway for another reason.

That would be great, thanks for offering! I'd really like to get some runs in before winter hits. Let's get something in the works, if that's cool with you. Do you have some dates that you'd be available?

Would you mind sharing how long ago this was and what some of the major problems were? I've just recently moved to Colorado and want to do some runs, but I don't know anyone here and don't know where to go for runs. I was considering folding and donating the $75 so that I could see what the deal...

Yeah I'll give the leaf springs some time to settle, then I'll look to see if I want to do a drop shackle. In hindsight I should've just waited on the shackle until I saw where the truck would sit, but wanted to do it all at the same time. They seem to know what they are doing and they were...

Thanks for all of the feedback, I ended up finding a place about 1.5 hours west in Grand Junction, Colorado that makes leaf springs. They are called Alcan Springs. I had them make me some +3” springs with an additional 200lb load capacity (removing the 2” block for a 1” lift). This saved me...

I replaced Nitto trail grapplers with these Falkens last year because of moving to Colorado from Florida. The Falkens were great for me in the snow and have been good during the summer too.

I had some similar thoughts, but shock rebuild is recommended at 50k and I was at 60k, so I went ahead and replaced them with new from Rockauto (they had the best prices I could find). I think I paid around $1400, then sold my used shocks for $600. A little disappointed that I noticed almost...

I have the exact problem you are describing. Replaced my shocks. Only a very small improvement. I've ordered leaf springs as I'm on the original shit ones from the factory. I'm confident this is the issue for me, maybe it's the same for you if you're still on stock leaf springs.

What a journey. Glad you got it figured out. The hood causing this is the first time I've heard this type of thing on any vehicle, it's crazy. Sucks that it cost so much time and money! Truck looks sick too

This is interesting and makes sense to me. Especially when you consider the time it takes to do it the "old" way. Time is money and technology has come a long way so I can see where doing a flush with the method you described would be a good route to go. My only question is regarding the...

Looks great! Have any action vids or pics?

Ha! I’ll hack off some engine mounts and a few feet of frame rail, but I draw the line at pry bars.

Would love to know how they did it, this starter was not coming out without doing something significant. Mine is a '17, is yours newer? I wouldn't expect there to be a change, but maybe.