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Maybe belt tensioner rattle? I would take belt off and start it up see if the noise is gone.

You could try to unplug electrical lock connector on rear diff and see if it stops the lock up.

Rear diff lock on?

Chamfer the pads? Not new pads for $400, You need to find a new shop...

That is good to hear , Thanks.

If the frame is swapped by competent shop its not as big a deal as it sounds. Not sure of the laws in your state, but I would check and to see if you can also submit diminished value claim.

Truck has deaver +3 and i want to level it out a bit. Just making sure there is no downside to them that I am unaware of.

Mine only had 70k when it started, not thrilled about it, but it is what it is. the bearing did not look bad yet, really only saw pitting on the forward pinion bearing race.

It started as a low growl at low speed/buzzing sound on highway. it started a few months ago and was not really getting louder . did not want to wait till it got worse.

Joined the bad pinion bearing club, all.quiet again now. Have not done a rear diff in a few years, crush sleeve seems alot harder as I get older..

JDM engineering has the belts with numbers on their site.

Dealer says just because it does not set a code its fine? I have seen, fixed many racks that were bad that did not set a code , {Granted alot were from collision damage} but I would not accept that as an answer from them. If it is worn internally or damaged it may not set code. I also would make...

You need a good scan tool to monitor the data. Any competent repair shop should have one. You probably have already had done , but front and rear suspension should be checked out very well. Just because it has no accident history, does not mean damage could not have occured before you bought it...

I would monitor steering angle sensor while driving, and verify its calibration.

It was on the truck when I bought it so I would think no warranty. I will eventually replace it with something else.

You are lucky..I have roll n lock cover and it leaks like crazy and pops open all the time, have vice grips holding it closed for the winter.

I did the same wheel yesterday .

Here is pic of eibachs bottom perch but not stock rear, has deaver +3. That front height also includes heavy front bumper and winch that were on the front.

For what its worth my truck had eibachs on the front when i bought it and to me it the ride was to firm and jittery in the front. I replaced them with new stock springs and to me it was way better. I think almost any thing you do to lift the front is going to have some effect on ride quality...

:smiley-face-popcorn

Just in case you did not know, you only have to loosen the back 2 bolts about halfway . The rear elbow mount holes are slotted so you can slide it forward.

Yes I do have a set of +3 , which raise the back 1 inch from stock. I feel they work well. I also tow a #7500 boat and trailer and the back does not sag like a stock raptor I used in the past.

I know they are not cheap, but a set of deavers would probably be the best bet, especially w the supercharger and towing in the mix.

Sorry but I am just going to sell them locally after thinking about it, don t really want to deal with the boxing and shipping. Plus with the weight of them shipping would probably be outrageous.

What works for me is 1/4 drive 8mm swivel socket, short extension about 3 inch, and a swivel head rachet. swivel head rachet not entirely necessary but any small rachet with fine teeth would do the trick I think. its tight to get decent swing as you will see.