This isn't the sexy opinion, especially with all of the motor work being discussed, but I would set aside a portion of the budget for paint protection and underbody treatment. Even in a no/low salt area there will be wear with time, and it looks like you intend to keep this truck for the long haul.
Figured out it was the pump when the stop leak made it run better. My guess is that it was losing pressure at the seals, which makes sense as I saw some residue around the ends.
I did end up replacing the rack, got it from rock auto and went to a dealership for install. I believe it was 2.5...
I found this thread and ordered map, dome, vanity, and license plate from superbrightleds.
The dome went in fine, the map lights I don't recommend. The truck fades the light out which causes the led to flicker off rather than gradually dim.
The vanity light, tried using pliers and pulling it...
My truck had it done already when I bought it, there is a sticker on the fuse box that says where the new fuel pump fuse is located. Wonder if that's a Ford protocol since it was a dealership maintened truck but I thought that was good they did that. For anyone who gets the dealership to do it...
Thanks all, good to know. I'm going to pull the trigger on separates from carparts or eBay. Unless anyone had luck with that AliExpress deal? Wouldnt hate getting it from one place and ordering that 15+ GPS antenna boostinchick found
It's fun to get it dirty but it looks damn good when it's clean.
Car guys plastic restorer is amazing. Optimum no rinse works well for garage washes in this crazy heat. Turtle lux leather for interior and turtle hybrid ceramic wax. Adams detail polish for touch up.
I read through the thread and it didn't look like there was consensus on this, can anyone confirm if automatic climate control works correctly?
I like to set a temp and let the system ramp up or down to get it there (especially starting during a hot day where it goes full blast then tapers...
And if you want to rule out the shocks for the squeak just take off the back shocks. Jack up the rear till tires couple inches off, loosen both bolts and it drops out. Need a bottle jack to get it back in (expand the leaf) and I centered it with a screwdriver to get the bolt lined up
I bought new ones off of rock auto, around $1400. Backs are easy, let the dealership do the fronts for $250ish (2.5 hrs labor). Have heard mixed reviews of rebuilds, fair number of people report leaks.
I can spin a wrench but the front shock bolt is 425ft/lb at spec, you'll need air tools if...
For anyone following or that encounters this, the problem is the rack. I put in some Lucas power steering stop leak and it freed up the steering. Feels normal and smooth. Not sure how long it'll last, but at least it's better until I get a new rack on it.
I confirmed again that there isn't any play at all at the center of the wheel, it's stiff from the word go. Going to grease the lower U-joints and see if that helps first.
Does anyone have tips on adjusting that steering rack nut? Going at it with handtools so any tricks would be helpful
Oh wow, thanks, didn't know you could make that adjustment. It definitely doesn't want to spin back to center easily. And dont think there's much slop at center, just tight, so you may be right
One of the YouTube comments said their '14 didn't have that adjustment? Thought the part numbers...
Belt seemed good when I pulled it to swap the pump, will take a look at the others. Thanks
I saw you had tight steering in yours when searching, did the new rack make your steering loose/normal again?
Recently purchased a '14 and the steering hasn't been right since I got it. Figured the steering pump was going because the fluid was milky and stunk, and it was tough to turn. Mix in some grittiness and I figured it was time.
Pump and fluid changed, no more grittiness, but still hard to turn...
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