top out is actually the term for the shock fully extending, extension clunck damages the shocks and possibly the shock tower (there’s other threads) besides the damage having only a few inches of droop isn’t really a good suspension setup, fox only recommends raising the truck an inch, imo any...
Ok so you lost your droop travel with the springs and you have extension clunk, return to stock springs or get the foutz limit strap kit, get collars if you want the front higher
it’s a bit tricky but look carefully at the pictures, gloves might save your hands on the fender liner but definitely don’t remove the wheel, if I did it anybody can!
I think the spring (preload) problems are at full compression causing coil bucket failures so limit straps aren’t going to help that.
collars are preferable to springs to avoid the issues apparently
fwiw i’ve seen coil buckets fail with aftermarket coilovers,
limit straps in the front prevent...
once you have the RST18 the front will want mid travel
e clik won’t be possible after RST 18
i’m doing king secondary with stock width and boxed steel uca, lca as you are suggesting but it’s a compromise,
mid travel ftw
get on the wait list for the foutz boxed steel spindle with double shear...
he should have over 18” rear travel with his 3.5s and the front mid travel probably applies more leverage to those front shocks mounted inboard so a 3.5 secondary probably makes sense
flattened leaves will sag more than 1/2”
eibachs may settle close to 1/2”
rearch your stock leaves and add a couple of leaves
1/2 the deaver cost, deavers sag too by the way
missing hardware? what’s missing?
if they’re threaded and adjustable heims at the frame side they’re probably ok, if they’re non adjustable there’s no point…
indeed the lca pockets are exposed and easily damaged with a frame cut bumper. remember the pockets are part of crash management. the foutz replacement is a nice part, they advised me to repair the pockets if possible, weld in doubling plates, pocket bridge and frame strengthening front and rear...
the tie rods, inner and outer are designed to protect the steering rack, replacing inner or outer tie rods is much cheaper than a rack. be glad it’s tie rods and not the $2500 rack
did you mean 37” tires?
You may have some bumpsteer from changing the ride height (how much did you raise?) and altering angles but it sounds like you need another shop to check your alignment, rack, cv axels, inner tie rods and steering shaft for issues. uca’s are stronger and articulate better but don’t really affect...
0mm will stick out about 1 3/8” compared to stock
will throw more mud on the side of your truck
18mm will stick out about 5/8” compared to stock
less mud slinging safer choice
fwiw I’ve been through baja twice, svc is great just a different design, I have 16” king 3.5” s which should be pulling 18” travel, I rearched deaver 4s with a couple extra leaves so I have close to 8” compression travel and around 10” rebound, barely touch the bumps
ya their website is weak for raptor products, the rack is similar to their chev set up pics, call JT at baja kits for info. they might stock the rack, king shocks are several months wait.
i’m happy with the rack and kings, the baja kits rack is similar to other racks on the market, simple...
ok I have 3.5s with rack rear and stock width front with 3s
a 3.5 rear needs a mid travel front imo with coilover and secondary shock
I think you’ll be getting past the live valve capabilities
guys love eclik with stock or frs
mid travel and rear rack etc is far more capable
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