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Yes, you would then install that in the CHRA and balance the assembly.

Turbos are balance as an assembly. Replacing just the compressor and not rebalancing isn't recommended.

The elevates look like deavers. Sam einstall kit, price is even the same. Just get deavers. My Icon's wore out in 2yrs, switched back to deavers (gen1 had deavers) and the deavers ride better than the icons. @Rick at FMS can you help you out with the deavers.

I have a Winnebago MicroMinnie 2100BH, bunkhouse model. Comes lifted with torsion axles and 30” tires, and equipped with solar. I think the non-bunkhouse models have a queen bed. It’s 22ft and roughly 5-5500lbs loaded. Goes great with WDH and anti sway. They are pricey for the size, but the...

Probably oil residue from oil changes. Or the plastic pan is leaking.

I guess if you let the shocks go way too long between rebuilds and the wear bands wear out, then piston starts wearing on the body this could happen. But shocks that are in good shape don't make a lot of metal shaving. And the condition of all of these parts should be checked at every rebuild...

Get a smaller trailer, or get an F250. 1/2 ton trucks have no business towing a 30ft 7k lb trailer.

Regardless, in theory I guess that internal valve stuff could sludge up over time. But there’s so much pressure moving that stuff around I don’t see it getting stuck.

Again, the needle is not the main control for oil flow. It is a small bleed port. When it is shut, the main flow control piston is hydraulically locked in place, and can’t move. When open, it relieves this pressure and allows the piston to open and allow oil to flow through. The pressure comes...

The needle doesn't directly control oil flow from the body to the reservoir. It controls hydraulic pressure on the actual valve that controls flow. If you'd had one of the apart you'd know what I'm talking about- In the non-livevalve gen2 shocks, the reservoir orifice (on the compression side)...

They are solenoids. Solenoids are an electromagnetically controlled valve. And they don't control a needle, the live valve is a pretty complex hydraulic flow control valve. If all the solenoid did was control a needle, it wouldn't be able to be PWM'ed, it would be open or closed.

0 ph will do melt a lot more off the truck than just the ceramic coating lol

I just took Icons off my truck that were worn out and W'ed in only 2.5yrs/40k miles on "option 1". I replaced them deaver +3HD's on and the truck rides better than the Icon's ever did. Will always recommend deaver. Also a big thanks to @Rick at FMS for helping me get into the new set of...

That Amsoil fluid is the wrong viscosity for the 10r80, do not run it.

I just run water.

Delete the IWE's and move on with your life. I didn't even notice a fuel mileage change in my truck.

Came here to suggest this. First thing to check on a Gen1 that is killing the battery overnight. Easy check is the P for the gear indicator on the dash should be yellow when you're in park, if its not, the park switch is bad.

You need a wheel spacer to lower the wheel offset. And then get to trimming on the inner fender and firewall.

The stock inlet tubes may be "restrictive" but they don't cut off air flow. Stock VS AMS inlet tubes wouldn't be a factor in the issue the OP had.

Well, it still wasn't the tune :) Intake restriction is a new one for me. Haven't had that happen. It can cause over speed. Or if the pressure ratio is really bad, the compressor is trying to pull its self out of the inlet, and as a result the thrust washer is seeing loaded in the direction it...

It takes a lot of things wrong with a tune to blow up a turbo. Too much boost resulting in overspeed is the most common one, but Garrett's are very resilient to being run beyond their rated RPM. And these trucks. especially on pump gas, don't take that much boost. These Garret's are on easy mode...

Leaf springs generally cycle less than the shock unless its a 64" leaf pack with the hangers relocated. Especially if you put an extended shackle on and don't relocate the rear hanger. "Leverage" (what you mean is motion ratio) slows down the shaft speed. Doesn't mean the shock works harder...

It's your money (extra ~$1200?), and the 3.5 front defintely won't hurt. But I don't wouldn't spend the extra cash on it with rear still being leaf sprung. You have probably 16-17" of wheel travel in the back. I'm guessing the mid travel kit is ~16-17" wheel travel. S0 the 3.0/3.0 in the front...

What rear suspension is on the truck? If still leaf sprung, a 3.0/3.0 combo up front will be plenty. if you were link in the rear with big wheel travel, the extra damping of a 3.5 secondary could help the front "keep up" with the rear better.

They don't last 100k, but they go long enough. My truck has the RPG kit, 20k on them so far and they haven't loosened up. They're PTFE lined so, no need to lubricate them. Better than bending the dinky inner tierod in half the first time you put the tire in a hole while 100 miles from no where...