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Got bored. Slammed on some 35 inch Toyo M/t's. Load range C for maximum squish.

No I didn't. Only back to the metal crimps under the rad. I think the lines might be all metal from that point back. Required: 1/2" transmission cooler line x 6' 3/4" hose clamp x 8 (2 on each hose end) Rotary tool to do precise cuts on the crimps

CHOPPED and SLAMMED them transmission cooler lines.

Did nothing

Thoughts?

It was a few years ago and it was when I installed gen 2 shocks on my gen 1 truck, but I took it for a test drive and it was making metal on metal grinding noises. I took the top hat out and flipped it around to fix the issue and it was good. The gen 2 shock is larger than the gen 1 shock so I...

Late to the thread, but that is 100% a misinstalled top hat. I know because I did the same thing but heard it rubbing right away and caught it.

Drove up a pile of poopy

Update: Glued the two pieces back together with the most carcinogenic glue I had, let it sit for an hour, and reinstalled. Been driving for an hour, SHE'S GOOD

Update: Found out right IWE was completely broken in half. It still held vacuum though, which is why this relatively simple vacuum system has been such a pain in the ****. Do not use IWEs from Amazon.

Update: Purge valve (in picture) was completely plugged with dirt. Took it out and vacuum tested it, it was leaking by badly. Poured alcohol down it (all I had) and now the valve can open and close and it holds vacuum. Also, the blue ford 2 way check valve was also no good. Replaced with a 7...

Grinding noise coming from front end. I replaced IWEs like 2 months and air lines are nearly new as well (silicone aftermarket). Quick rundown: 1. Using gauge, determined vacuum system is pulling like 23 inches of pressure on source side of check valve. Doesn't seem to be the issue. 2...

I bought the truck with 300,000 km on it and in extremely rough shape. Rear window had been leaking for years and was so bad there was mold growing behind the rear seat.

Changed out both IWEs. Had some grinding when driving through deep snow in -40°C weather but I don't think they even actually had to be changed out. The nut on the CV axel was super lose on one side so I think it was allowing the IWE and the CV axle to shift apart. 

My 2012 was leaking through the rear window somehow. It was REALLY leaking. After a weekend of rain the entire truck was filled with water. Pulled the drain plugs on both sides and rammed a bunch of silicon in the top rubber flap thing of the rear window, all the way across. Fixed the issue.

I bought 35 inch K02s and after standing back and looking at them, I noticed they look tiny as hell compared to my old tires. I measured them out of curiosity and they are like 33.5" tires. Truck looks kind a sh*t with them, might go with something different because I want true 35s.

You are probably right. Might modify later.

I'm not sure what they claim but I know for absolute certainty that you could. Extremely overpriced though so heads up

Nice cheat for anybody who doesn't want to use the supplied tek screws. Also puts both dip sticks in the same place.

S&B intake, new 35 inch K02s, and B&M transmission dipstick with custom ******** installation method using junk I found around the shop

Rerouted the IWE lines. They are also silicon now and covered in some cheap loom tube I had laying around

Now that the truck has unthawed even more, it seems to be working normally again. Maybe the IWEs were totally packed with ice or something and having a hard time.

Truck has 340,000 kms. After some -38°C ditch driving and letting the truck unthaw fully in a shop... Turn the switch, the 4x4 light comes on as it should, there is some light grinding noises and after a while it will engage and work as normal. Disengaging 4x4 is a little more tricky and you...

Replacements for OEM, but not necessarily Motorcraft depending if there are better aftermarket alternatives I'm also probably going to get the silicon lines from forgedoffroad.

Best place to buy IWEs?