Frame reinforcement would be my guess. I believe the 13/14’s had additional plating added to beef up the frame. Just my two cents, but I would look into having it repaired.
I recently got offered a trade for some guys Lexus in the parting lot of the local liquor store. Didn’t even have to look at the car to know what my answer was. LOL.
That’s one of the causes I’ve read about. No fumes or gas smell (other than my own) that I have noticed. It also seems to come on more often or quicker when running the AC. No idea if it’s related or just coincidence though.
Thanks Corona. Just checked the purge valve by unplugging the hose and electrical connections. No noticible vacuum with the engine at idle. Thinking it may be a corroded wire somewhere in the loom, but Yoda only knows where.
Looking for a Raptor Friendly shop in the Denver, CO area. Would rather go to a local shop and support their business rather than go to a Stealer-ship. Got code P0446. All hoses, wiring, filler “cap” look to be in good order from what I can see. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
When I first got my 2011, it had Toyo R/Ts as well on the OEM wheels. Still had decent tread. I also noticed a “wobble” or vibration (definitely not a death wobble) when hitting 70-80 mph. It went away when I replaced the tires. Still went with Toyo R/Ts so I chalked it up to the previous owner...
I recently priced mine on KBB, same year, 173k miles, range came out at 22.5k - 24.8k. For private sale. If it’s in pristine condition, I’d say that’s about right in today’s market. Maybe a little high.
Picked up a set on the forum here for $1000. Found another set on eBay about 18 months ago for about $900. $550 sounds more like dealer retail. Insane.
Wow, my 2011 has been in Denver/Aurora CO it’s entire life so it’s seen it fair share of winters and has maybe 10% of the rust that truck has. Definitely run away.
I gotta admit, the 12year old inside of me does think this is pretty cool, love the sound of jet engines, but definitely not very practical. To each their own though.
I know it’s rare, but I had a similar issue on my 2011. Sometimes the doors would unlock and sometimes they would not. Ended up being some broken/severed wires in the loom that runs to the door.
This to me seems like good old fashioned great parenting. This is what I did for my boys. Even though my oldest boy has a Gen 2 a and the younger has a F150 Raptor Conversion, it still works.
Locked my keys in the truck once with the battery cable disconnected. (Long story) but I was able to get the hood popped with a wire hanger by snagging the release through the grill in about 30 seconds. Never had to go near the skid plate.
I run toyo R/T’s as well. True 35x12.5x17’s. Couldn’t be happier. I start to get noticeable road noise when they get down to about 10-12/32’s. A little pricey, but great tires.
This same thing happened on both of my rear door wiring looms. Soldering fixed the issue until I eventually just picked up new wiring looms from a ford dealer on amazon.
I bought my 11’ with 115K on the clock. It had full service record and didn’t appear to have been beaten on too hard. Had full service record. Knock on wood, the only thing I’ve had to replace (besides all the normal maintenance) was drivers side CV and IWE. Has 166K on it now and seems to be...
I run Toyo Open Country R/T’s and replaced at 4/32’s. I know, not a direct comparison. Even at that depth, biggest complaint was the road noise and seemed like they were harder to keep balanced.
Thanks. Basically just sanded every square inch with 400 grit sand paper. Just need to make sure it’s even. Then sprayed The base coat and three coats of clear. Easy-peasy.
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