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Don't have my Raptor 3.0 IBPs apart yet, but here are the last set of Fox 2.5 and 3.0 IBPs I had apart to service and revalve. The 2.5 IBPs use the shim stacks for a 2.0 series "regular" shock, the 3.0s use the stacks for 2.5 series shocks. I am 99% sure when I get in the rears they will be...

If you really want to play with the stacks and see what something is capable of (without experimentation) download ReStackor: https://www.shimrestackor.com/ I have only played with the demo version, but that is just because after being inside shocks for the last 30 years I can usually get...

@Jhollowell I will absolutely post up the dimensions when I get them apart. Also want to compare with the Fox 2.5 (front) and 3.0 (rear) internal bypass Dynamix shocks I recently had apart to revalve off our Polaris race UTV. Supposedly they are similar, but we will see.

I ran the 3.0 rears for about 10k before putting the KHC front buckets/3.0s in for the full conversion. Ran the rears with both OEM (25k) and Deaver +3s (20k to current). Last 10k added the KHC rear brackets (where I am now). The Gen 2 3.0 rears are a noticeable improvement all on their own...

@FishFreak I have just about 200k on my 2014, and am still going to be throwing stuff at it. (Edit: going to be taking my wife down to test drive a new Bronco to replace here Explorer, so may have something else to throw $ at). Frankly, in your case even with the "fun tech" of the Live Valves...

@FishFreak , as for the other questions... 1.) The Live Valve solenoids are just electromagnets, and polarity for them doesn't make any difference from the testing I did with them before I put them on my truck. Now, thinking it could be something wired backwards I would have agreed, but in...

@FishFreak See the attached pic for what @Gen1TillDeath mentioned above about the SVC bump kit. Currently have them in max up travel setting. But can lower them down 2 inches if needed to help with excessive loading in the bed. I did hammer the inner fender wells flat as my 37s would hit the...

@FishFreak ... I did end up getting the E-Click controller from SDI. Was it worth it? Depends on what day of the week it is and what my mood is, so let me explain. For starters, I am absolutely all in on the Fox Live Valves. What they can do without having to get out of the cab of my Raptor...

Is there a way to somewhat lessen the negative arch by using Deaver +4s and a longer shackle to get the ride height back to +3 levels? I know this is probably just opening up another can of worms in that you will need to put limit straps on if running OEM or OEM replacement shocks that won't...

So, I've been running the adjustable constant current power source for the last few months. It works very well. I have a 110V CV/CC source that I stuck in my center console. I pop the lid to adjust the current. It is not the slickest way to do it (I will get to that), but for my testing purposes...

KHC has the towers to fit the longer Gen2 shocks in the Gen1 trucks. That's what I've got on mine with the Gen2 Live Valves. They probably do work great if you don't push it off road, and if your stock 2.5s were blown out anything would be an upgrade. I'm LOVING the Live Valves. Can tighten...

Pretty sure it is the longer body of the Gen 2 shock causing the issues. You can shorten the bump, but in the stock Gen 1 bucket the Gen 2 shock body is simply too long. If you push it you will damage things that can't be easily fixed. Either shove Gen 1 fronts back in it or put in the taller...

Playing a bit more today, and learned a few more things. Basically, I did some additional searching and realized my voltage/current supply was in an over current state. It did not come with a manual, as that part must still be in a container sitting out in the Pacific off the coast of Long...

One more thing... I know that some have probably subscribed to this thread, so I will post updates as I progress here. Once I get it all done, however, I will post a stand alone thread with all the pics, etc... just so it is easier to find for anyone else in the future.

Okay, FINALLY getting around to this project. You all can thank the 'vid for getting me going as it messed me up enough that my dirt bike racing season got shut down 6 weeks ago so on to the Live Valve project now that I've got enough energy and motivation to not go right to bed after I get...

I was initially thinking of a 3 position rocker switch with soft/med/hard, but am now probably going with a 10 position rotary with soft at one end and hard at the other. If I can make it look like the terrain/mode dial in a Gen2 or my wife's Explorer all the better. If I ever get around to it...

Because if you don't use the delete kit, the Live Valve defaults to the needle being fully closed: i.e. the shocks will be super stiff which isn't exactly ideal. Hence why I'm going to make the Live Valves function like the IQ Quick switch setup they now have for UTVs and Jeeps.

When I get it figured out, I will post up a build thread with pictures and all the part numbers/sources I used so anyone else can tackle it!

The $ that I would spend on 3.5 bypasses for the Raptor will be going into the build of my '74 Bronco! I also haul way too much stuff in the bed to go with a rack/bypass set up (although I would LOVE to be able to do that).

Going to run them on my Gen1 using the KHC front buckets: a late November project when my last dirt bike race for the year is done. Have a few months to get the electronics figured out while I get the rest of the parts I'm throwing on (leafs, bumps, etc...). Parts for all of the electronics...

I've got a set coming later this week and was planning to try exactly that: get a poteniometer and figure out what current levels move the valves accordingly. With that, pretty easy to get a three position switch to set up a soft/medium/hard valving scenario with a bunch of inline resistors. If...

2010s: (of 10,437) #00067 -- Dungone -- Tuxedo Black -- 5.4 #00102 -- Lonzo -- Tuxedo Black -- 5.4, Luxury Pkg #00125 -- joekai -- Tuxedo Black -- 5.4, #00232 -- Ducati -- Tuxedo Black -- 5.4L, Lux Pkg #00329 -- SVTCALI -- Blue Flame -- 5.4, Loaded #00682 -- aarons419 -- Molten Orange -- 5.4L...

Externally, the only way to know would be if the previous owner had schraeder valves installed for nitrogen charging so a needle was no longer needed to check pressure. Even internally, unless the valving was modified or some other parts were exchanged for non-OEM Fox it would be difficult to know.

I've had no issues at all with the silicone line setup from Forged for the 20,000 miles I have had them on. I hated the stock vacuum hose setup on my '06 Screw and had no intention of leaving my Raptor stock in that department either with all the problems I had on the '06. I do plan to upgrade...

I've got about 30,000 miles with them on my '14 and I am at just about 50% tread depth remaining. A way better tire than the KO2s I had on my previous 06 F150 Screw which were shot by the same mileage. They have been great on the highway and phenomenal when playing in the dirt. Rocks will chew...