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Exact same issue started 3 weeks ago on my 2011 with 145k miles. Runs great other than on or off the brakes at less than 2-5mph. Very annoying for sure. Anyone figure it out or just saying “normal” still? UPDATE - Mine just put up the check engine with code P0301 (Misfire cylinder 1).

Yes to all are dying. Voltage regulators were the problem in all the bad ones I received. No issues since. I did the reset every time.

Yeah not sure either, but it was a running joke at the store every time I walked in. They say "oh you're the guy with the Raptor".

No issues so far after installing Motorcraft alternator.

Went back to O'Reilly yesterday and they price matched RockAuto :). Was listed at $839 and matched down to $369! Hope to have it tomorrow. Fuse seems to be good.

Thank you, and guy i worked with there was nice. The first one they gave me had a back voltage regulator. What should that wire read?

That is the only idea I had left since I know nothing else has happened. I will have to see if they will refund me and order the Motorcraft one. I had them check it before I left the store, but I guess as you both said...just not good equipment.

I know there are many other threads on this, but not sure where to go from here as I have read almost all of them. Last week replaced alternator after battery light came on and heard the alternator whine and smell. Replaced with refurbed 200amp from O'Reilly as that is what they had and headed...

Thanks for the feedback. I think I may have some other issues going on. No battery light for a while and then back on again, but everything at battery and alternator look good. Only does it when I get up to speed and it runs fine! Always something

I would like to know the answer to this as well! I just replaced mine yesterday with (sorry to say) an O'Reilly remanufactured one, still had battery light so took it back, tested and said voltage regulator was bad, replaced making them test new one before I left, said was good, install, and...

Still available? PM if so please!

I have a 2011 so not sure of the differences to your year, but I did not remove the airbag. Removed the radio and behind that to the right is the actuator with 2 screws, drop the glove box and look up and left to see it. Front screw get from behind radio area, back screw sucks but can get with...

haha, mine went to all cold. I still have clicking but think it is the one at the feet. Just dealing with it right now

For passenger control the one behind the radio fixed that. You just need to pull the radio and lower the glove box to get that one. Some good YouTube videos on that.

Mine is a popping sound. I had the creaking the first time I had to replace it.

I didn’t realize there was another there so I will for sure check that this week thank you. Also, please keep me posted on the memory module under the seat!!!

I do agree with you, and my reason for unplugging all of the motors. I was hoping someone would have had the same issues as me. Again, I can remove every motor and still get the popping. It sounds like it is coming from the large box behind the glove box which I think is called the plenum...

Put everything back together with a new blend door behind radio, did fuse reset to recalibrate more than 10 times, and still have popping :(:mad:

Reviving my own post from the dead. I am still battling this today! It just turned cold here, and I replaced the actuator behind the radio yet again only 2 months ago. Yesterday driving to work I was getting warm from the driver vents and freezing cold from passenger and rear vents. The full...

If you do the fuse removal reset does yours actually calibrate when you put it back in? Mine makes no moves or sounds when I try it. I tried unplugging the battery for 30 minutes as well and nothing.

I am to the point I don’t have a clue what my issue is. Possibly the gear in the plenum has lost its home spot and tries to go too far, pops a few times, and doesn’t do it again until the truck is off and started again. If I do temp above 82 I hear it strain but no pops. Temp goes up and down as...

I replaced the first one with a amazon special, and then it persisted and got worse so replaced with a factory one again. I took the 2nd one out and actually took it apart to see what was going on and 1 of the gears was shredded down. At that point if it went in it clicked constantly, put the...

No one :(

So replaced my passenger side (upper) blend door actuator since I had the famous clicking/knocking, and mine actually was constant and never stopped. After I replaced it I still get a few clicks once I start the truck and then it stops. AC and heat work how it should and have both. Any ideas of...

Looks like maybe I didn't get the plug completely snapped in, and it worked its way loose :(