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Thanks Sam. I’m trying to better understand how limiting to travel and articulation these would be while on the truck (say towing a trailer to the dunes, unhooking the trailer, and going to play).

Any pics of the bags & “pucks” installed on the truck? Preferably without a trailer attached to see how they sit?

Thanks for the feedback. I’ll stick with s2’s up front and already have them for reverse as well. Sounds like wide cornering is the way to go after all.

Thanks for the post. I have thought about S1’s but no real reason for me to. I have both Baja & your mounts (currently using yours). A lens change is easier, and already have GJ with S2’s in the rear with reverse. Anybody run S2 Pro in Combo on the road and get away with it? Or do you...

Hi guys - I currently have S2 Pro Fogs with the Wide Cornering lenses. Who runs these in combo pattern? I use SAE's on the road. And have Squadron's in Spot. I thought the S2 Pro Wide Cornering would be nice but seems like I rarely use them - on road they're too bright and don't project...

If you're willing to ship bumps, PM me and perhaps we can work something out.

Not sure I’m following the part about orange wires. The power wires have red heat shrink on the ends. Otherwise in a couple of the pics when the Zen is on, the LED from the Zen might be what you’re seeing appearing to be orange on top of the wires? After checking ground resistance, I had...

thanks man

Thanks man, I've seen bits & pieces of yours but yes post it up!

Thanks, that's in line with what Manville Smith (VP of Marketing for JL) has said on the VXi Amp thread over at DIYMA. Though with the VX series, you cannot adjust gains with optical input, only output level. I'd have to re-read the thread but believe, like you mentioned, all things being...

One thing to note on the amp rack, that I NEVER really see mentioned from the manufacturers selling these amp racks (SGS, MTI, etc.), is that you CAN'T just put gear wherever on the board unless you're okay with the seat in the "down position all the time. I learned this the hard way :doh2:

It's 1/2" HDPE from Sounds Good Stereo, pretty beefy stuff, fitment was really good too. (link here: https://soundsgoodstereo.com/products/2015-ford-f-series-custom-made-amplifier-rack-plate)

I haven't experienced that in either of my trucks, though I do drive in Sport (so ASS is disabled) 99% of the time. I'll have to play with it and see. I have seen certain amplifiers being compatible / not compatible with ASS. What amp are you running? What's the voltage when this happens...

Thanks yeah that’s the worry, it’ll get swapped out for a downfiring box. As far as Nav TV / optical goes, the “Global Level” is currently set to 0dBFS, think that’s the max. Besides phone gain and chime level, not much else to adjust there unless I’m missing something.

Thanks man

For sub, I was unsure where I’ll end up. So I purchased a JL CS112TG-TW3 on a Black Friday deal so the box cost $40 more - good way to try it out and see it a single 12 will be adequate. Planning to have MTI build a box when I decide. This box does sound nice and wedge it fits under the seat...

And the “final” amp rack product. The cat5e cable for remote bass control is wound up and not yet ran, and USB cable is out for tuning, which is happening currently. I set this up for both Optical & RCA. I can confirm Optical is very clean but volume @30 isn’t as loud as I expected. Seems...

Nick’s @ApicellaAutoSound ’s custom tweeter brackets he whipped up for me to use with GB10OE tweeters showed up.

Here is version 2, This new layout allows seat to move freely. Doing some test fitting and checking power & grounds.

Hardware showed up. Nav-TV A2B with JL VX800/8i and JL Slash 600/1v3. Using Audison Connection distribution block (overkill for just these amps but used with future expandability in mind - radio,compressor, etc.). Test fitted a few times and all looked good so I started routing cables...

Used nut serts and SGS block off plates & speaker adapters for GB60’s. Also used Metra silicone speaker surrounds. Here’s a pic mid install.

Deadened the doors using Knu Kolossus on the outer skin, inner skin, and some on the door card itself. I used transfer tape to help with some of the shapes and cutouts. I ended up REDOING the portion around the access panel so that the block off plate would sit flush against the deadener...

Treated the wires with Techflex, & heatshrink’d them. I may re-run the line going from battery+ to fuse holder for better bends.

Fanned up a fuse holder bracket out of ABS for use in the battery tray. Mounted with provided screws (cut off the ends and filed smooth, and added a zip tie for additional security.

Pulled power wire through the firewall grommet