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For one thing, you should NOT engage in 4WD at highway speeds on hard-surface roads, PERIOD! This is per the manual, which explicitly states that it "can produce excessive noise...". So you've got two significant factors that could cause the mechanical issues you're describing by driving at...

I'm assuming you have the B&M 22200. It wasn't just me that was having fits with trying to interpret the fluid level; as I mentioned, someone else who installed the B&M schtick couldn't readily identify the fluid level either and that's when we brainstormed the idea of painting the tip white...

I did this initially, and it was just awful. I jury rigged a funnel, clear hose, and barbed end hose connector to the threaded dipstick tube end, finagled a way to hang the funnel along the hood edge and it took forever to full THAT much fluid. And after all that work getting that B&M schtick...

Yea, mines' clocked at 144k right now and the only problem has been a broken valve spring, leaky steering rack (I have a Ford rebuilt sitting on the shelf since last year or more but haven't found the time to swap it in), and no start on a frigid morning up in Big Bear (started up later in the...

This has been true for any factory Normally Aspirated vehicle since the introduction of the ICE: Adding Nitrous oxide, supercharger, and/or turbocharger(s), the already higher static compression of typical NA engines would put yet additional stressors on the internals and head gasket(s). But...

Last year when it broke? 142k on the clock. Presently, it's at 144 and running strong!

+1 on the valve springs! My #8 intake valve spring broke. Parts were cheap, but the tools I bought (valve spring compressor and leak-down test kit to pressurize cylinder) added quite a bit to the bill. Someday I'll be R&R with a kit from Livernois Motorsports...

From my research, the most likely reason is because some positive offset (more backspacing) has the least chance of having the outer tire edge contact the lower rear portion of the fender liner near full lock to the left under articulation. Right behind it is the pinch weld between the...

OEM suspension.The rears are too bouncy for me with all that gear. My intent is to put 'er under the knife and install King 3.0 Gen 2 Coilovers and Rear Bypass shocks. This will require new front housing buckets and rear shock mounts to take advantage of the full travel of the Gen 2 suspension...

Weight of the unsprung wheels definitely has a play! But weight is also based upon brand of rim and tire selected: a steel bead-lock rim will weigh more than milled non-beadlock aluminum rim, and how "solid" the rim is (e.g. fewer spokes, large gaps versus mostly solid with small round holes)...

A little demonstration of the tire "flexing" over the rocks and bumps to give an idea that there is sufficient sidewall squish to soak up some of of the trail harshness... Not the best example, but this little hill allowed the group to dismount and film each other; normally through some of the...

I know there are more selections now than there were 3 years ago! I was definitely going against the grain in seeking 20 inchers for the trail back then. There was one guy I trailed with once who was damn sure of himself that I'll be punching holes all over my tires with such "puny" sidewalls...

Yea, 12ish PSI. I've had them down to even 8ish! There was certainly alot of "rolling" the tire sidewalls, but I guess the stiffer sidewall kept the bead! I like 'em! And I really don't notice the shorter sidewall in terms of ride cushioning; when the trail gets rocky rough, the 2.5 radial...

At the time 3 years ago, that's all Nitto offered for the 35x12.5x20 Trail Grapplers. I was leary of using such a stiff tire, but eh, it really hasn't been as big an issue as I was fearing at first, like the OP's question. Sure, you can distinguish the stiffer sidewall over an OEM street/AT...

Trail Grap's 35x12.5 F-RATED on 20's. Been riding them for almost 3 years offroad, though I'm not blasting 70 MPH on the trails, mostly becuz I hang with non-Rap's. When I have opened 'er up tho, I had no problems with ride harshness nor stability. Originally came with 37 KO2's on stockers...

Yea, I won't be installing these axles until I do a Gen 2 coilover upgrade so in the meantime they'll just collect dust on the shelf, or be in the parts bin I take with me when off-roading (after the swap, the OEM's will be in the parts bin as spares on the trail). Of note, the axles are not...

Even though my current axles are running just fine, the price for these extended axles is just too insanely cheap to pass on it now so I pulled the trigger from RockAuto before TrakMotive realizes they can charge WAY MORE than they are now. Thru RockAuto, it came out to $296 total (with shipping...

Just to add BTW, I will be putting the Rap' under the knife when I convert to Gen 2's ala Krazy House Customs Gen 1 Conversion Buckets

Hehe, yea, I didn't notice your follow-up posts regarding TrakMotive... so how did you find the Raptor-specific ones on eBay? Did they tell you that's where they sell them? Just odd that they don't list Raptor's on their official website.

Interesting about the 1" Uniball and plane; I never thought there were truly noticeable differences between the various aftermarket UCA's. I was leaning towards the lower-priced Elevate, formerly Element, UCA's, but now with your comment, the SVC UCA's seem to fit your advice...

I never heard of "TrekMotive" nor extended travel axles so I visited TrakMotive and their product sheet doesn't list any Raptors at all (just the standard 12th Gen F-150's)... :-( Do they offer custom built axles? Eventually I will be going King Gen 2's with Gen 1 Springs so I'm definitely...

For the price point of a measly $25, this is what i'm going with!

That's what I was thinking of doing intially, because looking at my stripe, it doesn't look like it's a separate leather wrap but some sort of overlap affixed to the leather (BTW, I'm not the original owner)

Dang, I did a generic "steering wheel" search under the Gen 1 forums and there was just too many hitz to weed through the countless pages. Thanks for responding so quickly!

So the top center red stripe on my steering wheel has seen better dayz and is peeling with small chunks gone. What have others done to restore this, if it even is possible? To cover the hideousness, I might resort to simply wrapping with red electrical tape to get by...