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What about something like this? I was thinking about trying one.

I don't really know anything about bodywork or fenders, but I've seen fiberwerx in person and was not impressed.

I've got a couple of the fog light mounting plates I'm trying to get rid of if need them.

I was thinking JB Weld would be a safer way to do that. Especially for offroad adventures.

They actually warn you of the dangers of that on the screen prompts lol.

Yep. The schraders I ordered were $10/ea after shipping. Probably overkill, but it's a raptor.

Have you not had problems with the needle valves leaking? 2 of mine leaked after stabbing them for 20 minutes trying to get the needle to go in straight, then the weight of the fill chuck bending the damn needle.

Yes, probably the hardest thing I've had to explain all day. Thanks for making my evening difficult.

Yep. I just created a north Alabama raptor group on Facebook. We are planning a run for next month. If you're interested in joining the group let me know, I'll add you.

He said you needed the fill rig, but he was wrong. You don't have to have the fill rig, it just makes it easier to gauge what the actual pressure in the shock is without losing a ton of pressure. You could just hook a regular schrader type fill chuck to the shrader valve in the shock to fill it...

I'm confused. The guy answered your question and you asked it again. Yes, there is enough room to charge without shock removal.

I got it from a local off-road shop in Huntsville Alabama. You can find them online. Just search for no-loss air chuck.

Before he installed that Schrader valve, charging the shock would require a needle to fill the shock with nitrogen. He took out the need fill port and installed a Schrader. So now you just hook your air chuck directly to the Schrader valve instead of Schrader to needle to valve.... Look at this pic.

Instead of using the shitty needle to charge your shocks you can just hook the Schrader directly to this port. Makes charging and checking easier.

Here's a link to a thread with pics of s guy doing schraders on the front shock. http://www.fordraptorforum.com/f9/front-shocks-using-valve-shrader-44988/

On my rears, 2/2 on one side were stuck and 1/2 on the other. On the front 1/2 on each shock was stuck.

I would also recommend doing away with the needle valve inserts! I'm going to schraders, they are a pain in the ass and they lose pressure when you remove them. The other tool I would recommend is a no loss chuck with a gauge so that you can make sure you are getting the right pressure.

Yep! That would be him! Here's his raptor.

Have you ever had a freezer full of frozen meat lose power and opened it up? Worst smell ever. Now imagine a bag of frozen assholes defrosting, even worse! We have not decided on TRR16 yet, I really would like to go, but I have alot of trips coming in the next few months and am just now getting...

Rebuilt my front and rear shocks thanks to the diy thread by m3dragon. It's a night and day difference! I've got about 62,000 miles on my truck as well as 2 TRR's, RTF and a Snoball on them. The fluid was filthy black and smelled like a bag of defrosted assholes. Well worth the effort. Next...

Was it anything like this? https://vimeo.com/154341800

So I believe that I created a workaround for the "stripped allen bleeder screw problem", and I wanted to run it by you guys just to make sure I didn't screw anything up. If you fill up the shock with fluid so that the fluid is at the very top of the bypass body, you can install the ifp without...

I bought a spare tire when I bought my new Nitto's, kinda wish I wouldn't have. Waste of money.

Got my svc light tower modified to fit a 50" light bar. And painted it.

So since you already have it setup, what else do I need besides the tank? Hose, regulator, do I need that no loss connector thing?