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The Gen3 calls for less camber than Gen 2. I've updated my Gen 2 to the Gen 3 alignment specs and it seems to have helped some. Suprised still having same issue on Gen 3

Check out the Snoball! Runraptorrun.com. Also Catchmeoffroad does a winter run in Huron National Forest.

Did the rest of my D Rings this weekend, just a little heat on each from underneath, and no drama. Didn't take much.

lol here ya go .. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0989VCRCF/?tag=fordraptorforum-20

Sometimes local dealers do online sales as well. THere are a few here in the Detroit area an prices are similar to tasca... Just have to find which dealer it is to pick it up to avoid shipping. See if any dealers do this locally to you.

Its similar, but its not. I runs and seeps much better in my experience.

Looks like you have a tonnue cover as well, so not sure I can attribute it to that. I've again never had an issue in rain, snow, salty roads, etc. I suggest maybe the best fix is to spray the heck out of the inside of the tailgate and get those wiring harnesses good with some CorrosionX...

ah ok, I am not familiar with the product. What I have seen as most effective is a combination of a cosmoline on certain areas and something like a corrosion x , fluid film, or surface shield ( some type of oil based, seeping product) to keep rust a bay. Repeling elements and sealing out and...

Define rust inhibitor? What did you use?

I thought this was posted in Gen 3.... as you were

One thing I've learned over the years is when you mess with the stock setup, you get to experience some things like this. Whats wrong with the OEM setup?

Im in the detroit area, as antidotal evidence only a set of 5 of these went locally to me for 1100 as brand new takeoffs. Seemingly low but thats what they sold for.

lol, ill have to check mine. Technique? its just pull strait out to ensure the alighnment studs are in the proper place. Ford kills me sometimes. I did notice one of mine starting to get condensation in it.

And for the love of all that is holy, please take it off road....

I hope you get everything worked out usafjames. Its sad whent his happens. My dad got his new 22 superduty and it lost a motor after a year and 27k miles 2 days before they were to come back to Michigan after a month outwest. Its been a disaster to say the least. Ended up escalated all the...

I'm usually somewhere between 5k and 7500k. I also have good friends that are engineers at Ford. The IOLM is how they run all their durability tests, so going off of that you should be good. I like to do it by the time it is down to 25 percent or so.

I have 3 friends that have bought them at MSRP. Its VERY VERY hard but not impossible.

DO A THERMOSTAT!!!

KHC bolts are a recipe for terrible galvanic corrosion, I would not use them with the OEM nuts. Also those grade 8 bolts are terrible when it comes to corrosion protection compared to factory.

I think offroad alliance has a video showing how to replace these bed nuts without any of the bed lifting etc... I just pulled my rear most bed bolts to re powder my bed supports and install d rings. I sprayed them like crazy with corrosion x and used the TP-50 and a breaker bar and went real...

No heated steering wheel trucks = red headed step child of Raptors in the North

This has nothing to do with the cam phaser issue. The original hardware was just not made for long term durability for the duty cycle.

I run 87 in my Gen2 all day unless I'm at an event or towing. I think i heard it knock maybe once and pull timing. Never again. I dont drive hard in normal traffic, no reason, so 87 is fine an I have almost 90k miles.

Yep you should see some of the dents on the bottom of the running boards that would have been my doors if they were not there

These look very clean. Like you admit, Raptor usage aside, even the OEM ones dont hold up to salt/snow. My neighbor has an F150 with them deployed all the time because they are broken. Also, you'll find your gonna have tons of rock chips up the side of the truck just from the road. The OEM...