GEN 2 GEN2 Oil Drain Plug Valve

Since I completely crushed the exhaust pipe that runs across the crossmember from the drivers side to the passenger side at TRR, I have ordered a full set of KHC skid plates to prevent this from ever happening again. So now this brings up the Oil Drain Plug Valve upgrade since aftermarket skid plates do not have the door for the oil change and I don't want to remove the skid plate every time an oil change is done or have the dealership deal with it. I will be bringing the raptor to the dealership for oil changes so I want to get one that is easy for the techs, not for me in the driveway.

I have a 2020 with the metal oil pan. Look to need a M12x1.75x12mm

Doing my research, seems there are several options out there. So wondering what is best for the oil change tech AND for off-roading.
1. Fumoto - Seems to be the go to for this and most common. I am not sure about the lever to open the valve, can it open accidently when off-roading considering how much bouncing/banging around that happens. I did see the Fumoto has a plastic lock to prevent that. Does it wears out, starts to leak and is the dust cap enough if it does.
2. EZ Oil Drain Valve - Same concept as Fumoto with a better lever. Same concerns though
3. Stahlbus - Looks like a great solution, just don't lose the adapter that fits into it to start the flow. I like that it comes with a tube and you can connect it together so no leaking oil out of the tube when storing or needing to clean afterwards. Have to give it to the service advisor or tech and explain how to use. Not too complicated but would rather mention it than just assume they know.
4. ValvoMax - Similar concept as Stahlbus, perhaps a little better design but do have to keep the attachment and not lose it. Tube doesn't connect together so cleaning it good would be needed or put in ziploc bag.

So the criteria is:
1. Easy for the tech and fastest flow as I don't want to waste their time if the oil is flowing a lot slower than what they typically allocate.
2. Off-road friendly, no accidental leaks. Anyone ever have the valve open accidently on Fumoto or EZ when off-roading extremely aggressive?
3. Longevity in function, don't want to cause any issue down the road.

I am leaning towards the Stahlbus even though I would have to keep track of the attachment, they do just sell that attachment part so if it did get lost, its not the end of the world, just get another one or always have a spare, just incase.

Did I miss another brand solution that I should look at?

Thoughts?

If I was doing the type of offering that you do, I’d cut an access panel to mimic the factory location, weld in tabs on the top with weld nuts to make it removable and stay with the tried and true bolt to seal the oil pan.

I use a fumoto and have on my last several vehicles, never had one open on me. They also come with a plastic safety clip to go over the lever to keep it from accidently spilling. On the raptor, I leave a hose attached to the end that I tuck away above the skid plate when not in use. I have enough room to pull the hose down to direct the oil into a canister and enough room to open the valve without taking the skid plate covering off. I looked at other options, but liked this one because I was able to leave a hose attached all the time and never have to take the skid plate cover off again. It does flow slower than the stock drain plug, but it takes less time than changing the filter as long as the oil is hot.

I have the Fumoto valve, if that valve ever got banged hard enough to open it, your truck would be far beyond totaled. On top of the valve they also have a plastic clip as a secondary safety.

I have the Fumoto valve on my metal panned '18. The valve is somewhat fiddly and difficult to open even when you're trying to, I can't imagine it opening with any jostling or jarring the truck is able to handle off-road even without the plastic safety clip place.
The valve is pretty simple and self-explanatory for anybody mechanically-inclined enough to perform an oil change. I can't imagine any tech struggling to figure out what its purpose is or how to use it if you aren't able to offer an explanation at some point.

Bluto said:

I use a fumoto and have on my last several vehicles, never had one open on me. They also come with a plastic safety clip to go over the lever to keep it from accidently spilling. On the raptor, I leave a hose attached to the end that I tuck away above the skid plate when not in use. I have enough room to pull the hose down to direct the oil into a canister and enough room to open the valve without taking the skid plate covering off. I looked at other options, but liked this one because I was able to leave a hose attached all the time and never have to take the skid plate cover off again. It does flow slower than the stock drain plug, but it takes less time than changing the filter as long as the oil is hot.

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I do the same on my truck and even went to the hardware store to purchase a cap for the end of the 3/8" tube.

01Moch1 said:

I have the Fumoto valve on my metal panned '18. The valve is somewhat fiddly and difficult to open even when you're trying to, I can't imagine it opening with any jostling or jarring the truck is able to handle off-road even without the plastic safety clip place.
The valve is pretty simple and self-explanatory for anybody mechanically-inclined enough to perform an oil change. I can't imagine any tech struggling to figure out what its purpose is or how to use it if you aren't able to offer an explanation at some point.

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LOL!, when they did my valve cover replacement I had a tech call and ask what the heck was in place of my drain plug.

After I explained it to him, he stated oh yeah I know what your talking about but I've only seen them on race cars.

Frank N said:

If I was doing the type of offering that you do, I’d cut an access panel to mimic the factory location, weld in tabs on the top with weld nuts to make it removable and stay with the tried and true bolt to seal the oil pan.

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I have had those type of skid plates on my GEN1, with the access door (RCI) and just a opening (HeftyWorks) and with either the oil still never came out just in the opening. Most of the time oil got on the top of the skid plate and some techs would clean up the mess and some didn't. I ended up just taking off the skid plate for oil changes, didn't want to mess with that anymore.

Oldfart said:

I have the Fumoto valve, if that valve ever got banged hard enough to open it, your truck would be far beyond totaled. On top of the valve they also have a plastic clip as a secondary safety.

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My comment was not about hitting/banging it with road obstacles. I will have a skid plate so near impossible. And even if I didn't have the factory skid plate, it would have to be one hell of hit to be that high. My questions was about how much the truck moves around, rattles over certain terrain, jumps, etc that if the lever would ever move and open up.

Got the exhaust fixed today, don't care for how it was done but it will get me by for $150. Ordering the SPD downpipes and will just replace it with better. Found more damage, hit the drive shaft pretty good a couple spots. Will take it to a driveline shop and see how far out of balance it might be or just buy another one. I am sure glad that I had the SwarkWorks shock guards, that protected my passenger side shock as I don't think I would still have the adjustment knob today. Just a ripped boot that needs replaced.

RDFTS said:

I have had those type of skid plates on my GEN1, with the access door (RCI) and just a opening (HeftyWorks) and with either the oil still never came out just in the opening. Most of the time oil got on the top of the skid plate and some techs would clean up the mess and some didn't. I ended up just taking off the skid plate for oil changes, didn't want to mess with that anymore.

My comment was not about hitting/banging it with road obstacles. I will have a skid plate so near impossible. And even if I didn't have the factory skid plate, it would have to be one hell of hit to be that high. My questions was about how much the truck moves around, rattles over certain terrain, jumps, etc that if the lever would ever move and open up.

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I seriously doubt it since it's spring loaded so you have to press and move the lever to open it.

It also has a ledge to keep the lever from being accidentally opened so depressing the lever overcoming the spring pressure and then it can clear the built in ledge so you can swing it to the open position.